I also would've guessed a bad VREF, but bad driver is also possible. I have also seen this problem myself and sometimes it was simply a matter of unplugging the motor, power, USB, and resetting the board. I'll see if I can get my hands on your board when it comes in and test it.

52

(16 replies, posted in Solidoodle Discussion)

redbarret wrote:

Thanks.
It looks like a decent PSU is used, though I don't get why there are two cables to connect to the printer.

Same hotend, just two instead of one.

X carriage seems the same, just mirrored the extruder for dual extrusion and added fan on the front, also fan for cooling the print (finally!) which is nice. Kind of disappointing to still see the old teflon and brass bushings instead of linear bearings like on the extruder carriage. Also still one pillow block with a brass bushing...

Didn't really see how the front tensioners are now.

The pulleys seem to be wider, or is it just me? Does it say MXL or 2GT on the belts? Side belts are the same closed loop clamped to the carriage.

Didn't really find out anything about the size and power of the heatbed.

Proper threaded Z rod this time? And do I see a anti z wobble nut?

Y motor seems bigger than Nema 17 or is it just me.

There are 2 cables from the PSU because the heated bed gets it's own separate supply since it is high wattage.

The front pulley mounts are similar to the ones on the SD4, only they are aluminum instead of printed.

All belts and pulleys are GT2.

worldburger wrote:

Ah, thanks!

What are the Workbench's connection settings? Are they the same as the Press?

230C? If we print the ABS parts in a better material can we override that temperature limit?

How do we go about getting the STL's for the carriages, fan shroud, etc? I'd love to be able to get these files without having to resort to reverse engineering them with calipers.

I plan to 3D print these parts in a more heat resistant material on a Form1+ or another 3D printer.

The connection settings are the same for all models. If you use our installer it will have everything configured already.

The extruder temperature is limited by the PEEK barrel.

We do not release the models for the printed parts.

Just a reminder, making changes to the firmware or hardware may void any warrantys.

worldburger wrote:

I'm trying to  calibrate my Workbench printer using EEPROM changes via Repetier Host.

Does anyone know how to setup Repetier Host for the Workbench?

RH will only connect if I use VirtualPrinter instead of the COM3 (or whatever), but then all the numbers in EEPROM look very different (like the feed rate which is what I'm trying to calibrate). See attachment. I know the Extruder steps/mm is actually 138 steps/mm, but it's showing up 373.  Any ideas?

The funny thing is...Simplify3D can connect fine (and that is my end goal), but you can't change EEPROM via S3D.

I realize I can change EEPROM with directly typing in certain codes, it's just that I'm much more comfortable changing EEPROM via Repetier i.e. for the calibration (of feed rate, etc) smile

Side Q: does anyone know the temperature limit for the Workbench?  I cannot get the extruder temp to 245 (it seems to peak at 228-230).

Selecting virtual printer doesn't actually connect to the printer - those EEPROM settings are basically placeholders/examples. Make sure your RH connection settings are correct (baud rate, cache size, etc).

The max temp is set to 230 in the firmware so all heaters will be shut off if either extruder reaches 230.

We usually use 215, but anywhere from 200-220 should work. You may need to experiment a little and find what works best for you and the filament you are using. The firmware has a max temp of 230 so if either extruder reaches that all heaters will be shut off.

atrayu wrote:

Hi Glorious, Omniscient Intarwebs!

For the life of me, I cannot get SoliPrint on my mac to recognize the Press!  I have emailed support several days ago, nut no reply. 

So, in my desperation, I'm trying to get my new Press to print using Repetier Host (like I did with my Solidoodle 2).  For the life of me, I cannot get it to print on the bed.  It tries to do the job, but hovers 4 or 5mm above the surface.  In the guide booklet, Page 8, step 10, it tells me to "Set your Z offset using the enclosed instructions."  I'm thinking this may be the problem.  There were no instructions enclosed anywhere on setting the Z-offset. 

Any help with my hovering print jobs or inability to connect via SoliPrint?  Thanks!!!

Does anyone have any ideas?!

Make sure you have G29 in your start code to probe the bed after you home (G28).

worldburger wrote:

SoliRyan: Is there a way to get the Solidoodle Press to do a 16 point level procedure for prints that consume a majority of the 8x8" bed?

Yes, you can do this with M853 P4 (you enter the number of points per dimension, 4^2=16). It can then be saved to EEPROM with M500. If you send M501 it will show the current settings saved in EEPROM and will also show you the syntax for each command.

As cpsmicahel said, check both your RH and Slic3r start codes for any temperature commands such as M109 or M190. My first guess would be that it is waiting for the extruder and/or bed to reach a certain temperature. Also check the temperatures in your Slic3r filament settings.

59

(54 replies, posted in Solidoodle Press)

thatdecade wrote:

Shortly after starting a print in RH, my hot end temp drops from 245 to 215.  What causes this?

I am sitting by the machine for the first few mins of a print anyway, so I notice that hot end begins to jam and have to manually increase the temperature back up.

Check your RH and slicer temperature settings and be sure you are selecting the correct profiles.

Gruu1885 wrote:

Thanks for the information Ryan!  Unfortunately after still trying this i'm having an issue where the print nozzles are at some point and time knocking into the print and causing it to dislodge from the print bed. It almost appears one nozzle is ever so slightly lower then the other. Is there an easy way to level both print nozzles to be dead on?

thanks for your time

Basically since SoliTouch compensates for the bed being unlevel, the nozzles do not have to be level with the horizon but rather level with the bed (imagine a line created by the tips of the nozzles, this line should be parallel with the bed). You can move the bed all the way up until it just touches one of the nozzles, and then adjust the bed using the wingnuts so it touches both nozzles evenly.

61

(4 replies, posted in Solidoodle Press)

This may sound obvious or stupid but make sure you are selecting the actual COM port and not connecting to the virtual printer.

62

(54 replies, posted in Solidoodle Press)

The movements to lower and raise the probe are included in G29 or when homing Z. I could easily implement separate codes but I'm not sure I see a use for moving the probe unless you're probing or homing, it just creates the need for extra lines of G code.

http://www.soliforum.com/post/80457/#p80457

64

(54 replies, posted in Solidoodle Press)

We do not use the newer version of Repetier Host because it has gone closed source, so we are unable to create a custom installer for it. You can of course use any version (or any other software) as long as you have the correct connection settings and set your start code to include G29. In the newer versions of RH, go to the Preview tab, then the G-Code Editor tab and select Start Code from the dropdown.
The reason the new RH is only touching the bed once and printing above the bed is because it is homing Z and not actually probing to measure the bed and not using the Z offset.

Gruu1885 wrote:

I'm having nothing but issues with this workbench printer!

I issued the G29 code and was able to get the printer to do the level procedure i then saved it to eeprom with the m500 command.

however when i tried to print something it ran the Z axis up into the print nozzles.... what would cause this?

Only the offsets are saved in EEPROM, the leveling data cannot be saved to EEPROM with M500 and must be performed before each print, hence the reason for the G29 command in the start code. Be sure the probe is down before starting your print.

You can change this by going to the G-Code Editor tab and selecting Start Code in the dropdown menu. G29 is the command to measure the bed and compensate for it being unlevel, which is the 16 points you mention. You can change the number of points with the command M851 P3 for example if you wanted 9 points (less points will result in a less accurate measurement and compensation of the bed). The Z offset is changed with M851 Zx.xx where x.xx is the offset in mm. A higher value will make the first layer closer to the bed. Also remember to use M500 to save your values to EEPROM, and you can use M501 to check the current values.

Although we recommend using SoliPrint with the Press, you can still use Repetier Host if you wish. Our latest installer (http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … l-Software) has profiles for all of our printers including the Press as well as an updated version of Slic3r.

68

(5 replies, posted in Solidoodle Discussion)

We have a new Repetier Host installer with settings for all new printers and also an updated version of Slic3r which you can get here: http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … l-Software
If you want to keep your current install here are the settings for the Workbench:

X max: 336
Y max: 305
Z max: 305
Print area: 305 for all

From the original video it appears the probe was not pushed all the way down, causing the bed to come up too far and into the nozzles. Please make sure the probe is all the way down before starting the print.
You can check the start code from the G-code Editor tab and open the drop down menu and select Start Code.

Press runs on 24V, Workbench and Apprentice run on 12V

71

(10 replies, posted in Solidoodle Discussion)

According to the A4982 datasheet: I=Vref/(8*Rs)
0.1 ohm sense resistors: I=Vref/0.8

Substituting in the current ratings of each motor gives the Vrefs:
X: 0.8 V
Y: 1.064 V
Z: 1.344 V

The extruder motor should be set to whatever value results in the smoothest movement. Too low and it's not enough power to keep up, especially at higher speeds. Too high and it will pulse, causing uneven extrusion. We did some testing across many printers and found the best quality at around 0.17V, but had to be run very slow. We found 0.25V to be a good value that performed reliably well at typical speeds while keeping quality.

http://blog.solidoodle.com/2014/10/soli … rinter-qa/

We will have a new post on our blog by the end of today. I'll post a link here when it's up.

74

(50 replies, posted in Solidoodle Discussion)

Hey guys. We know there have been a ton of questions about the Press, Workbench Apprentice, and Workbench over the past few weeks and we want to address as many of them as possible. Please send your questions to [email protected] by Monday 10/27. We will compile them and post a new FAQ page next Friday.

Hey guys. We know there have been a ton of questions about the Press, Workbench Apprentice, and Workbench over the past few weeks and we want to address as many of them as possible. Please send your questions to [email protected] by Monday 10/27. We will compile them and post a new FAQ page next Friday.