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Yes, that is one I had in mind. Also this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:757721. Sorry, I don't have any good tips on settings, you'll really have to experiment to find the best temperature, flowrate, etc. I did a very limited amount of printing with it and it was long enough ago that I don't remember any settings.
Hey everyone,
Just thought I'd let you all know that I am moving on from Solidoodle and will no longer be able to provide official support or speak on behalf of the company. This is a really great community and I have enjoyed keeping up with everything and helping out. I will definitely try to keep a presence on here and help when I can.
I have used it on a Workbench. The issue is that PVA is very soft and flexible so it will tend to buckle in the area between the drive gear and the opening of the barrel. To prevent this, you can use a small filament guide that fits in this space and has a hole for the filament to pass through. You can either design your own or find an existing model fairly easily on the internet.
I would look into slicer settings before anything hardware related. Try messing around with extrusion width and view the sliced gcode and you should start to see some differences in how it fills in these small gaps.
The extruder should be able to reach 215 without a problem. If it is unable to reach 215 you may need to run a PID autotune by running M303 S215.
The switch on the power supply is for the input voltage (120/240), not the output.
We had recommended 1.0V before but have since updated to now recommend 1.5V. If you really want to go the extra mile you can tune it by ear by moving your bed very slowly and listening to the motor as you adjust the trimpot. There are many factors that affect the ideal value for each printer. You're looking for a nice even flat noise with no fluctuations/hums/ringing.
mrallinwonder wrote:I did everything except the trim pots, can't find a picture that shows exactly where to measure voltage.
The trimpots have 3 legs on them, 2 on one side and 1 on the other. Measure the leg on it's own side across to ground (I usually use the shield of the power input jack).
I can only speak on what I have actually tested. I used a BJT (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e … ND/3504323) with the correct pinout which when turned off still allowed about 1.5V but it was enough that the fan stopped so it still technically worked, although not ideal.
Spring to prevent cables from falling and preventing Y homing
Ziptie for strain relief on the E motor
Check extruder fan direction
Add screws in the bottom of the platform
Check for good bed movement
Set trimpots
Set Z offset
I'm not sure about spare parts, we're working on it.
Unless you've changed it, your start code should have a G29 command which runs the probe. Be sure that you don't have any G28 commands after this as it will cancel out the measured data, especially if you're printing from gcode (as opposed to loading a model and slicing it).
As one of the people who spent a good chunk of time in California fixing hundreds of Presses, it's really nice to hear that you're getting good results. Thanks for sharing.
In SoliPrint, after running the calibration print, make sure you are selecting the best offset and setting it.
We should be releasing SoliPrint v1.2.2 soon with a slightly updated and (hopefully) easier to understand calibration process.
Also see the following articles:
http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … alibration
http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … -SoliTouch
1. 8mm/rotation
2. GT2
3. run M502 then M500 to reset defaults then M501 to view
We're working to fix this in a new release soon. Thanks.
shoag1 wrote:could someone please post a picture of where the Green E1 and E2 cables connect to the main board, i received my daughter board and im trying to get everything back together but not all the connections are labeled. Also if anyone could post a picture of the cables connected to the LED and FAN port on the motherboard that would be awesome!
E2 plugs into the one labeled Z-MOT, and E1 into E-MOT. So starting from the power plug, you have X, Y, E2, E1.
The fan and LED headers are both just 12V so all the fans and the LED strip are plugged into splitters and into these headers.
Jadonm1 wrote:Anyone figure out how to update the firmware in Windows 7 without a programmer?
The boot jumper is JP3, and then just quickly short the reset and ground pins on the ICSP header to simulate a reset button press.
I already answered on your other thread, but I'll answer here as well in case others need it. Let me know if you still need help on this.
You have the right idea with resting them on the bed. It's not so important that they are level, but more important that they are parallel with the bed - since SoliTouch will compensate for the bed being potentially unlevel.
Alternatively, you can adjust the bed to match the extruders instead of adjusting the extruders to match the bed. IMO, it's easier to turn a few wingnuts rather than loosen the barrels and attempt to move them precisely.
See this article: http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … er-Offsets
You have the right idea with resting them on the bed. It's not so important that they are level, but more important that they are parallel with the bed - since SoliTouch will compensate for the bed being potentially unlevel.
Alternatively, you can adjust the bed to match the extruders instead of adjusting the extruders to match the bed. IMO, it's easier to turn a few wingnuts rather than loosen the barrels and attempt to move them precisely.
See this article: http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … er-Offsets
It's one heater, 4-pin connector (++--) to split the high current to stay within spec of the headers and connectors.
SoliPrint does not yet fully support dual extruders. We are working on it and hopefully releasing it soon. For now we recommend using our Repetier Host installer which will come preconfigured for all models: http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … l-Software
Also see these two articles on adjusting offsets:
http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … er-Offsets
http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … -SoliTouch
zqfrancis wrote:Thank you,
Since I know the thermal fuse has burned out, is there any way I can check the FB1? Just check if it is open circuit?
This part is just a noise filter for ground so it won't have any voltage differential across it. You could check for continuity. Although your board should still work even if this was blown.
shoag1 wrote:I just wanted to post and say that this thread was very helpful in identifying the same problem in my workbench printer as well. I contacted solidoodle support for a replacement board. If this is a reoccurring problem solidoodle may want to look into the cause of it.
Always happy to help. I'll look into specs and also keep an eye out and ask support if this is becoming a common issue and decide if I need to make a design change. It should be as simple as using a slightly higher rated fuse to handle the current but also low enough to protect the rest of the board.
If you wish to make repairs yourself, please know you are doing so at your own risk. With that being said, here it is:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e … -ND/615012
So it seems like the 5V regulator has gone bad. If you're comfortable soldering, you can try this:
1. Cut the legs on the 5V regulator (U13) to disconnect it
2. Solder the pads of R1 (located under the Solidoodle logo) to create a solder bridge
This will pull 5V from the motherboard instead of using the on board regulator.
By the way, have you submitted a ticket with support? If you need a replacement board then I would prefer you go through the support website rather than privately through here just so we have an actual record of it.
Ok, a few more voltages to check:
1. VIN (probe the 2 holes in the board next to FB1. Should be 12V.
2. Each of the legs of the 5V regulator (U13) located above the Solidoodle logo. Probe each one separately to ground. The one on the left should be 12V and the one on the right 5V.
3. Power supply output. On the 4-pin connector, the top 2 pins (spaced further apart) are positive, and the bottom 2 are negative. Should be 12V.
If there are no LEDs lit up on the daughterboard then there is no 12V or 5V power. Check the thermal fuse located on the daughterboard next to the power input. It is a small white block with a '10' on it. In the same corner check FB1, it is a very small ferrite bead to filter out ground noise in the power input. It is possible that either of these could have blown/melted in order to prevent more catastrophic damage to the board.
Also, this sounds stupid but just to be sure - are you connecting both connectors from the power supply? The daughterboard needs its own power separate from the motherboard.
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