26 Reply by soliryan

(8 replies, posted in Solidoodle Discussion)

tagyro wrote:

The firmware is full of bugs (auto-calibrate, yeah right) and you keep it closed source - don't worry, there's no competitor stupid enough to copy anything from you.

The firmware is open source. We share the source code here: http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … rce-Files.

tagyro wrote:

The software, sorry, you don't provide any software, just settings for other people software - and even that is incorrect.

You are free to use any software you want. We provide an installer and settings for Repetier Host which is free and open source (well, it used to be). What settings are you finding to be incorrect? We have tested and used these settings and with no problems.

tagyro wrote:

Size is wrong, extruder offset is wrong etc

What about the size is wrong? Maybe the chart is not being displayed correctly for you, causing the values to appear in the wrong column.
The extruder offset is stored in EEPROM and handled by the firmware so you don't need to set it in the software.

tagyro wrote:

Is this supposed to be the famous "auto-calibration": http://cl.ly/image/0s0p321v1r2a ?

It's hard to tell what exactly you're getting at from this picture. From the edges of the tape being peeled up, I would guess that either your Z offset is set too high, causing the hotends to be too close to the bed, and/or the two hotends are not parallel with the bed, causing one of them to be closer to the bed than the other. Please see the following articles:
http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … er-Offsets
http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … -SoliTouch

Also, as always, feel free to PM me.

Go to forum: Solidoodle Discussion

27 Reply by soliryan

(28 replies, posted in Solidoodle Discussion)

When the boards are both plugged in to power, do you see two green LEDs on the daughterboard? They are labeled D2 and D3. Also, what is the voltage across the temperature header (TMP)?

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28 Reply by soliryan

(124 replies, posted in Solidoodle Discussion)

Hi all,
Sorry for my delayed response. I am out of the office this week so I am just reading all of this now. I will definitely be looking into this and notifying others of it when I am back in the office.

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29 Reply by soliryan

(3 replies, posted in Solidoodle Discussion)

The defaults are:

Start
T0
G21; set mm units
G90; set absolute coordinates
G28 X0 Y0; home x and y axes
G29; probe bed
G92 E0; reset extrusion distance

End
G91
G1 Z5 F5000
G28 X0 Y0

Also keep in mind that by default we use only RH start/end codes and nothing for Slic3r.

Go to forum: Solidoodle Discussion

30 Reply by soliryan

(1 replies, posted in Help/Repair/Maintenance)

Theoretically it is -31.3mm which is the default setting in the firmware, but many factors affect this and you may need to make adjustments using the M218 command. Please see http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … er-Offsets for more info.

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31 Reply by soliryan

(284 replies, posted in Solidoodle Press)

Ah, sorry. Added now.

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32 Reply by soliryan

(284 replies, posted in Solidoodle Press)

MacGyverX wrote:

So I did the FET 'backflip' and it didn't work. The Printer is working fine (In fact its printing right now). But now I am getting now power out of the PWM header. I ordered a replacement FET from digikey. Well see how that goes.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e … ND/1706541

Did you also rotate it? Sorry, I might have been a little unclear when I explained it. When looking at the board with the fan headers at the top - the top left pad is drain, top right is gate, and bottom is source. I attached a picture showing how I soldered mine (and made a mess of the board).

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33 Reply by soliryan

(3 replies, posted in Help/Repair/Maintenance)

Make sure to lower the probe on the right side of the extruder

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34 Reply by soliryan

(3 replies, posted in Solidoodle Discussion)

All 40mm.
The exhaust fan is not installed on the Apprentice because there is no enclosure. It uses the same frame as the SD4 (which does have an enclosure and an exhaust fan) which is why there is still mounting holes for it.

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35 Reply by soliryan

(8 replies, posted in Solidoodle Discussion)

FYI - I also consolidated the settings for all printers into one chart here: http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … r-Settings

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36 Reply by soliryan

(284 replies, posted in Solidoodle Press)

Sorry for the decreased presence, guys. I still try to check in and help out whenever I can. Here's a bit on the PWM header:

The PWM header (CN17) is meant to be an optional expansion and is not used for anything as the printer is shipped. It is controlled by a FET (Q7) which is connected to pin 41 on the AT90 which is properly mapped as pin 16 for the fan pin in the firmware. Using the M105 command will properly change the state of this pin. However, unfortunately there was a mistake on the board where the FET to be connected incorrectly (the gate and source pins are reversed), causing it to be always on and not able to properly control the PWM header. We regret that this has happened and have since made the necessary changes to the board to fix this issue.

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37 Reply by soliryan

(21 replies, posted in Help/Repair/Maintenance)

If you're still looking for a thermistor PM me and I can get you a replacement directly from us.

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38 Reply by soliryan

(2 replies, posted in Help/Repair/Maintenance)

See the following article, especially the section on Z offset.

http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … -SoliTouch

Go to forum: Help/Repair/Maintenance

39 Reply by soliryan

(17 replies, posted in Help/Repair/Maintenance)

If you swing the front fan up and out of the way you'll be able to get to a 1.5mm hex set screw that holds the hotend in place. Be sure everything is cooled down before doing this, of course.

Go to forum: Help/Repair/Maintenance

40 Reply by soliryan

(4 replies, posted in Help/Repair/Maintenance)

Looks like you've figured out how to change the Z offset, but also be sure there are no G28 commands after you run G29 as it will erase all the data measured by the probe.

Go to forum: Help/Repair/Maintenance

41 Reply by soliryan

(4 replies, posted in Solidoodle Discussion)

Looks like overextrusion. Try decreasing your extrusion multipler in your slicer filament settings.

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42 Reply by soliryan

(14 replies, posted in Solidoodle Discussion)

Heartlander wrote:

Dang WardJr, I guess 500W should heat up quick! I like the solar gain idea best, though. SoliRyan, here I reveal my ignorance, but where exactly would I drop that G-Code in and would I have to do it on each job or is this a global setting?

Thanks for all the feedback guys. This is a great forum.

Both Repetier Host and Slic3r have their own start codes, so it's up to you where you want to put it. The RH start code gets performed first before starting the G-code you have loaded. It is in the G-Code Editor tab and select Start Code from the dropdown box. If you want to put it in the Slic3r start code go to the Slicer tab, Configure, Printer Settings tab, and Custom G-code.

Go to forum: Solidoodle Discussion

43 Reply by soliryan

(13 replies, posted in Solidoodle Discussion)

its3dmade wrote:

I have contacted solidoodle 4 times about this workbench with no response except for the auto response.
any body else having communications issues with them?

trying to find out how hot the hotends will go

It is set to 230 in Configuration.h

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44 Reply by soliryan

(44 replies, posted in Solidoodle Discussion)

tagyro wrote:

I have a Mac and followed this link: http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … st-For-Mac but there are no profiles for the Workbench, just 6 and 8" printers

Ah, yes. We have not yet created a new installer for Mac, only Windows. It should hopefully be coming soon. For now you can set everything manually:

X max - 336
Y max - 305
Print area - 305 for all

Go to forum: Solidoodle Discussion

45 Reply by soliryan

(44 replies, posted in Solidoodle Discussion)

tagyro wrote:
soliryan wrote:
tagyro wrote:

I've had some moderate success with RH but I still think solidoodle should release some profiles for the Workbench too (as they do for the 6 and 8" models).

Our latest RH installer includes profiles for all new models as well as an updated version of Slic3r.

I'm having a bit of a hard time finding the mentioned profiles.
http://www.solidoodle.com/how-to-2/how- … oftware-2/ is broken.
and
http://wiki.solidoodle.com/repetier-hos … ration-mac - only mentiones solidoodle 2 and 3; the same for http://wiki.solidoodle.com/default-slic3r-settings

http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … or-Windows

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46 Reply by soliryan

(44 replies, posted in Solidoodle Discussion)

tagyro wrote:

I've had some moderate success with RH but I still think solidoodle should release some profiles for the Workbench too (as they do for the 6 and 8" models).

Our latest RH installer includes profiles for all new models as well as an updated version of Slic3r.

Go to forum: Solidoodle Discussion

47 Reply by soliryan

(14 replies, posted in Solidoodle Discussion)

The G-code could look something like:

M190 S80 ; wait for bed to reach 80c
M140 S100 ; set bed to 100c
M109 S215 ; wait for extruder to reach 215c
M190 S100 ; wait for bed to reach 100c

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48 Reply by soliryan

(5 replies, posted in Solidoodle Discussion)

admir wrote:

Hello,

I'm writing here in a desperate attempt to make someone from Solidoodle respond to my mutliple unanswered messages.
A month ago, I received damaged replacement part (thread of the extruder barrel was damaged). Solidoodle was informed about that and they responded saying they will ship a new one.

Nothing arrived from Solidoodle to my address for a month.

Then a week ago, I wrote again saying that I still didn't receive any shipment. It has been a month since I was told the new parts will be sent and month and 1.5 months I ordered the parts.

I did not receive any repsonse to my message from a week ago.
I didn not receive any response to my other emails from last couple of days.

It is utterly unprofessional of this company to treat its clients in such a way. How hard can it be to get a replacement part that I paid for long time ago?

This sort of behaviour has caused me a lot of trouble as my printer is not in function for a long time now due to lack of professionalism in this company. The fact that I still didn't receive neither functioning replacement parts I ordered long time ago, nor a response to any of my emails is adding an insult to injury.

Solidoodle does not have a phone number that one can call.
Solidoodle's email address [email protected] - once emailed - returns a message saying "The email account that you tried to reach does not exist".
Nobody responds to emails sent to [email protected].
Nobody responds to requests on Solidoodle Support website.

My question to all of you would be: Is there a way one can actually reach anybody in this company?

Let me know your name/ticket number/order number/whatever else you have (PM if you want) and I'll ask around and let you know what's going on.

Go to forum: Solidoodle Discussion

49 Reply by soliryan

(6 replies, posted in Solidoodle Discussion)

nicholaseshaw wrote:

Here is the start code that I have come up with by cobbling together other start-up codes. Mostly cpsmichel's and lawsy's.

G21; set mm units
G1 Z10 F300; drop bed for clearance
G28 X0 Y0; home x and y axis
@pause; probe double check
G28 Z0; home z
M190 S80; set bed temp to start heating
M104 S215; set extruder to start heating
M190 S105; set bed temp to printing temp
G90; set absolute coordinates
G1 Z5 F300; move bed down 5mm
G1 X10 Y10 F3000; move to front left corner
M109 S215; wait for extruder temp to be reached
G28; home prior to z-probe
G29; z-probe
G1 Z.35 F200; move platform close to nezzle
G92 E0; reset extrusion distance
G28; home to drop anchor
G1 E7; extrude anchor

I have tweaked a few things that I have yet to try, like the "pause" at the beginning for z-probe and the "home" before extruding the anchor. The anchor kept ending up in the center of the glass and was gumming up the works. But, I was able to hit the "RUN" button and the printer did everything I thought it would in the start-up code. I will add these last few changes on my next print.

Let me know if any of this is redundant or bulky!

Thanks for your help!!!

Nick

Running G28 after G29 will erase all of the data measured by the probe.

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50 Reply by soliryan

(54 replies, posted in Solidoodle Press)

mikeflynn wrote:

After giving up, I heard that the older RH version that Solidoodle added the Press profile too was working well for people...but people running Windows. So as a last ditch effort, I spent last night dual booting my Mac and installed Windows 7 on it with the Solidoodle RH host. I then printed the same calibration cube as with my previous RH attempts (detailed previously on the thread) and the results were far far better (see pics attached below).

The brim got a little messed up and there was an issue with one or two loops in the walls, but since I was only getting a mess before it's a dramatic improvement. I might just stay with Windows for a while since I'm fortunate enough to have a dedicated machine for my Press, but once I feel adventurous again I will try moving over all the various settings to the latest RH version on OS X and see if that gets the job done (which logically, it should). I the meantime, if anyone is interested in seeing the settings my Solidoodle RH is running (both printer settings and Slic3r) let me know and I can post that information.

The better results are possibly due to the fact that our latest RH installer uses an updated version of Slic3r which performs much better. You can do this yourself with your Mac version by downloading Slic3r separately and replacing it within the RH directory, or telling RH where to find Slic3r if you put it somewhere else.

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