1 (edited by DarthGizmo 2015-02-10 02:51:25)

Topic: Question: Anyone with Dual Extruders.

Okay so I have got my Workbench Apprentice up and printing....well sort-of. I'm running into an issue.
The second extruder is about .3mm lower than my main extruder. So have a few questions.
is this something I can fix myself...is it fairly easy to loosen the hot-end and push it up that .3mm?
Is there a way I can use just the second one for now(and fix the alignment later.).
As I want to learn with one before I move to Multi.

Thanks all for any replies Info is always welcome.
if you know where this has been answered may you point me there as well.
Again Thank you.

2

Re: Question: Anyone with Dual Extruders.

Maybe but another thing i was thinking was taking the screw from the sensor and moving the sensor down a touch to move the extruders up but then it would be the same resaults becuz the second extruder is still lower.
what if i switch the main extruder with the second one so the main extruder can't scrap my print becuase it's already higher than the second.

Sorry thinking out loud........ on keyboard..:P

3

Re: Question: Anyone with Dual Extruders.

soliryan wrote:
Gruu1885 wrote:

Thanks for the information Ryan!  Unfortunately after still trying this i'm having an issue where the print nozzles are at some point and time knocking into the print and causing it to dislodge from the print bed. It almost appears one nozzle is ever so slightly lower then the other. Is there an easy way to level both print nozzles to be dead on?

thanks for your time

Basically since SoliTouch compensates for the bed being unlevel, the nozzles do not have to be level with the horizon but rather level with the bed (imagine a line created by the tips of the nozzles, this line should be parallel with the bed). You can move the bed all the way up until it just touches one of the nozzles, and then adjust the bed using the wingnuts so it touches both nozzles evenly.

From here: http://www.soliforum.com/post/80938/#p80938

SD2 with E3D, SD Press, Form 1+
Filastruder
NYLON (taulman): http://www.soliforum.com/topic/466/nylon/

4

Re: Question: Anyone with Dual Extruders.

Thank you for the reply DePartedPrinter. will try re-leveling the bed. Also if anyone has any info on the bed PID or why my bed will only heat to 96*c? I ran the PID auto tune for the Printhead but din't know the command for the bed itself.

5 (edited by IronMan 2015-02-10 21:13:54)

Re: Question: Anyone with Dual Extruders.

Not at my machine, but I believe the Autotune sequence for the bed is:

M303 E-1 S90 C8

E-1 = Bed Heater
S90 = Target Temp
C8 = Number of cycles to run test

Make sure the bed is heated to near the temp required or the sequence will time out.  Once you get the final PID numbers, you will then need to plug the final results back into the firmware.

BTW, PID autotune will not enable your bed to heat any more efficiently or faster, it just helps the system maintain better control over the targeted heat level.

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

6 (edited by DarthGizmo 2015-02-15 08:24:45)

Re: Question: Anyone with Dual Extruders.

Been messing around for a few days now and still the 2nd exturder is still scrapping my prints even when i have it completly level I do a Test Bed Print comes out looking good the try to print something and whack whack scrap scrap. this will be the down fall of my 3d printing if i can't get it in a few weeks. i tried printing a simple dragons head and the 2nd extruder snapped off 1 of the horns. wasted a ton of plastic doing nothing but failed prints.

tried leveling it with paper just barley touching each extuder on all four corners. I Have only 3 clips on my bed as thats what it came will would that be holding the other corner in the air? theres two up front and one centered in the back.

Anyway to just take take 2nd hotend off? just eliminate it altogether?

7

Re: Question: Anyone with Dual Extruders.

If you swing the front fan up and out of the way you'll be able to get to a 1.5mm hex set screw that holds the hotend in place. Be sure everything is cooled down before doing this, of course.

Former Solidoodle employee

8

Re: Question: Anyone with Dual Extruders.

Thank you for the reply i had actually just set it up in slic3r to just use the 2nd extruder. now i'm having issues where my filament is sticking to my hotend dragging my print around also my yand x axis are vibrating really bad. i loosened the belts. but haven't had any luck getting it to stop gonna regrease everything up to night and so what happens. what would happen if i throw some grease on the outside of my hotend think that would help the filament sticking to it?

9

Re: Question: Anyone with Dual Extruders.

I don't know much but putting grease on your hotend is a bad idea.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

10 (edited by DarthGizmo 2015-02-20 09:54:08)

Re: Question: Anyone with Dual Extruders.

well yar i put some on there and didn't really do much so i cleaned it off.

Editing as to not double post.

So i've got it starting off good but now after about 15-20 layers the print head is now squishing into my print seems it starts and each layer it puts down is actually pulling it closer to the print.

11

Re: Question: Anyone with Dual Extruders.

DarthGizmo wrote:

well yar i put some on there and didn't really do much so i cleaned it off.

Editing as to not double post.

So i've got it starting off good but now after about 15-20 layers the print head is now squishing into my print seems it starts and each layer it puts down is actually pulling it closer to the print.

Are you getting lifting after 15-20 layers...if your nozzles are set evenly with respect to the bed, then neither one should dig into the print.  Pics?

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

12 (edited by DarthGizmo 2015-02-20 11:42:22)

Re: Question: Anyone with Dual Extruders.

on this print there was no lifting. the top of the ball was squished inward by the extruder i've checked recheck and re recheck my z lvl and the extruders are indeed level to the bed.

http://i.imgur.com/T6WW55R.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/o0T6BzJ.jpg

sorry bout the crappy imgs all i have right now is my vita to take pics.

Link to imgur: My slic3r settings
https://imgur.com/a/pguXG

Thank you guys for the help it is really appreciated.
Wouldn't have gotten this far if it wasn't for yall.

13

Re: Question: Anyone with Dual Extruders.

So mostly it is the non-extruding nozzle that is dragging across and squishing the top of your print?...Gonna go out on a limb here as I do not own an Apprentice, but I am building my own dual extruder mount…so here goes:

Although it is critical that both nozzles touch the bed at the same time, the bed must still be as parallel with the entire X movement as possible.  Otherwise, even if both nozzles are parallel to the bed at, say the bed center, then once the carriage moves in the X axis, the gaps would increase or decrease.   

Now, while the auto-leveling routine should compensate for this by adjusting the Z movement during the print, it may get slightly out of whack with respect to one nozzle or the other.

My advice would be to take something that is a bit longer than the distance between your X carriage rods and the bed while the nozzles are not touching it; then use that to get the bed as parallel to the rods in the X axis as possible using the wing nuts.

Then, bring the bed up to the lowest nozzle, and adjust both nozzles so they touch the bed equally.

Now adjust the bed in the Y AXIS ONLY to get that correct to the nozzles.

You would still need to adjust the Z stop (probe) to home Z properly as well and not crash the nozzles into the bed; but at that point, both nozzles should be parallel and equidistant to the bed as possible in all bed positions.

Again, I do not own an Apprentice, so take this advice with a grain of salt, but this is the route I would take to minimize any mechanical issues…

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

14 (edited by DarthGizmo 2015-02-20 12:21:42)

Re: Question: Anyone with Dual Extruders.

Yar this is good info and I will try it but no it is the extruder that is printing that is squishing into the print. I have found another thread that may be my answer. I was just pasting code into the gcode not really checking it. It happens that I was running a G28;home all axis after my auto lvl ran.

G21 ; set units to millimeters
M107
*
G28 X0 Y0; home x and y axes
G91
G1 Z10 F5000; move bed down
G90; use absolute coordinates
G1 X0 Y0 F5000; move to front
@pause
G29; probe bed
G92 E0; reset extrusion distance
*
M190 S75 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached
M104 S190 T1 ; set temperature
G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle

M109 S190 T1 ; wait for temperature to be reached
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
G92 E0
M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion
T1

between the *'s is the code that I've been pasting in and the place that I paste it. I'm not that great with code but it seems only a few lines of the code I am pasting is necessary. Should I instead paste it between the G28 and the G1 Z5 F5000. Then i won't be over writing the G29 command with the G28.

15

Re: Question: Anyone with Dual Extruders.

Not that familiar with auto-leveling, sorry!

And I just realized in my post above that you really shouldn't need to use something "longer than the nozzle" versus your lowest nozzle...I just called back on what I did with my home-built machine before I installed the carriage tongue

But, yeah...if your auto-leveling was being cancelled out by the G28 that explains a lot.

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

16

Re: Question: Anyone with Dual Extruders.

Another thought...have you done the essential calibrations such as Extruder steps/mm and single walled cube to check extrusion width?

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

17 (edited by DarthGizmo 2015-02-21 09:35:07)

Re: Question: Anyone with Dual Extruders.

I really have no way to measure prints yet. I will be picking up a caliper tomorrow.
No I haven't done many calibrations except the z axis. Kinda scared I'll really mess something up.

Would it be possible for someone to configure this code to make it make sense to the printer.

G21 ; set units to millimeters
M107
G28 ; home all axes
G28 X0 Y0; home x and y axes
G91
G1 Z10 F5000; move bed down
G90; use absolute coordinates
G1 X0 Y0 F5000; move to front
@pause
G29; probe bed
G92 E0; reset extrusion distance
M190 S75 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached
M104 S190 T1 ; set temperature
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle

Or is this correct going to test it now: Worked but I think I got some extra Codes that are un-needed (Worked/Not Working)

18 (edited by DarthGizmo 2015-02-21 09:55:24)

Re: Question: Anyone with Dual Extruders.

https://i.imgur.com/rlFQMH0.jpg

Just finished a print and had no squishing on top smile

only thing I noticed was after about 75 layers for some reason the print shifted about .5mm along the X-axis.