Re: Solidoodle 3 Mods, and issues.
SSR, SSR heatsink, and 360Watt 6"x6" 120V AC heat pad showed up! Heck ya!
Now have to run to the store to pickup a few things to get this hooked up tonight (if im lucky).
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → Solidoodle 3 Mods, and issues.
SSR, SSR heatsink, and 360Watt 6"x6" 120V AC heat pad showed up! Heck ya!
Now have to run to the store to pickup a few things to get this hooked up tonight (if im lucky).
Let the fun begin and good luck
Well. Pretty damn FAST! Holy heat. This is 3/8" cast plate mind you, and it heated it up past where i needed it to be in 2 minutes. Before it took 30 minutes with the stock pad! I used my last known good configuration of 112C, to get an indicated 95C. This seemed to be dialed in perfect previously. I had to reduce those temps to get my bed temp back down to 95C as you can see from the graph. Now my temps are much closer. Once the plate seemed that it was heat soaked i set it to 98C and it got right around 95C indicated. When i mounted the temp indicated, instead of copy catting what solidoodle did (drill a hole a shove the little bulb in it). I did drill a hole, but filled it with 3M thermal paste which is non conductive, and transfers heat extremely well. Before it was in a mini air pocket, which doesn't work all that great for close, readings and reduces response time. Great thing is i can unplug the unit, and the bed still remians HOTT for a long while. This should be a much more stable temp heat bed.
My graph does indicate a pattern of hitting temp, and instantly kicking the heat back on and letting it drop back to temp (see graph attached). Can that be changed in the PID settings?
See manual tuning.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller
I did properly ground the unit, and check continuity all over the machine to ground. I suggest if you do this project, don't skimp out on the 3 prong power plug, and the $3 dollar ground bar. It can save your life. If your not comfortable with electronics/electricity, get a friend who can help.
Overall success though! Tomorrow i will hook up the chamber heater and pid controller. More pid fun... haha
M303 E-1 S95 C8
then put the values into the firmware for the bed in the firmware and compile and upload. Covered it extensively in wardjr's thread so wont rehash here.
Congratulations get it tuned in and your temps should be nice and level.
You may want to invest in a thermal fuse also. If the SSR or thermocouple fails, or the firmware has a bug, you'll hit 200C+ in a hurry.
You may want to invest in a thermal fuse also. If the SSR or thermocouple fails, or the firmware has a bug, you'll hit 200C+ in a hurry.
I think that is a great idea. Would be bad to come back to a pile of molten plastic, or a fire.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index … ue=Thermal
Would something like this be appropriate to use? How would i go about installing it. Running 120V through an open fuse, attached directly to my aluminum plate sounds like a risk if not done properly.
Also where do i put those settings at? I also wanted to update to V.90C of repeteier, but when i did, i didnt have any settings so had to go back to the download where solidoodle has already compiled all the settings.. Isn't there an export settings button so i can upload them into the new firmware? It also installed a seperate copy of repetier instead of installing over the original so i had two versions?
p 174.56
i 21.65
d 351.78
ok used these settings in my eprom. I wasn't sure if i needed a third party program to update that, or if i could just go into repetier and update.
Edit:
Ahh so i run G code and return my values. Ok will do, i have to let my bed cool now.. I see it said run with the "nozzle" cold, but doesn't mention run with the bed cold, but i think its an implied thing to do, so letting this cool down now, and well compare values.
http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning
thanks everyone!!
Also on that thermal fuse, don't they make something more so like a breaker i can reset instead?
I think the thermal fuse is a great idea. As far as your other questions look at this thread I had a lot of the same questions.
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/3209/wha … ve/page/2/
p 174.56
i 21.65
d 351.78ok used these settings in my eprom. I wasn't sure if i needed a third party program to update that, or if i could just go into repetier and update.
You will need to re do that, because that is for your extruder.
For the bed, you must update and upload the *firmware*.
As per previous message, its in wardjr's thread quite explicitly how to do the bed pid.
M303 S195 C5 <- you do this for the *extruder* and put the results into EEPROM
M303 E-1 S95 C8 <- You do this for the *bed* and put the results into configuration.h as specified in the other thread. Its all there for you.
And that is why Adrian is so valuable... he catches things like that at a glance.
diyengineer wrote:p 174.56
i 21.65
d 351.78ok used these settings in my eprom. I wasn't sure if i needed a third party program to update that, or if i could just go into repetier and update.
You will need to re do that, because that is for your extruder.
For the bed, you must update and upload the *firmware*.
As per previous message, its in wardjr's thread quite explicitly how to do the bed pid.M303 S195 C5 <- you do this for the *extruder* and put the results into EEPROM
M303 E-1 S95 C8 <- You do this for the *bed* and put the results into configuration.h as specified in the other thread. Its all there for you.
No wonder why the graph looked the same for the heat bed... hahah! thanks for the catch!
should end up looking like this
Scratch that, i found the bottom header it was hiding!
I run this:
M303 E-1 S95 C8
I get my PID output, and enter it in this format
M304 P141.33 I27.30 D182.94
I re-enter that in the manual box. and it should save to eeprom right?
According to that?
http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning
Pretty sure its working. Going to let it cool to room temp and re run one final time. Ill upload my values and charts.
Also on that thermal fuse, don't they make something more so like a breaker i can reset instead?
A simple and cheap safety is a coffee pot switch although this will be self resetting... but you could wire a loud buzzer across it so you will know when it trips.
This is what you are looking for, not a radial one:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Whi … %2fqgZ893X
This is what you are looking for, not a radial one:
Would i just attach that to the build plate and than wire my 120V inline with it essentially?
Hazer wrote:This is what you are looking for, not a radial one:
Would i just attach that to the build plate and than wire my 120V inline with it essentially?
Correct:
Just intercept one of the leads to the heater.
Well i went ahead and wired up my PID controlled chamber heater. I will eventually mount it below the unit and cut a vent hole for it, but until than, i don't plan on building any really tall models just yet so i put it horizontally under the build platform.
works REALLY well. Set it to 28C, (room temp was 19C). Watched the temp climb, and shut off. I was monitoring the extruder temp (extruder was off). Eventually the extruder temp was showing a solid 28C and had flat lined alone with my build chamber temp. I only referenced the extruder temp to see if i was close to what the new controller was reporting, and it appears that i am very close. Once the build plate was turned on the temp rose and stabilized to around 37c. Anything higher than 28C the heater doesnt kick on. I'm thinking of installing a little 120V fan also and using i to cool down the chamber if it "overheats".
So i found that i needed more "cycles" instead of the standard 8 cycles i did 16 cycles. Seemed as if i got a much better average of numbers that worked to create a nice flat line graph for the heat bed. The correct current PID is 152.99 28.82 and 203.04.
However.. I can't get it to save using the wiki style method of entering it in manually, which leads me to think i have to do it via the config file like everyone has been telling me to.
M304 P1 I2 D3 Tried that with no luck. Tried this M304 P1 I2 D3 M500 with no luck either. not sure why i can't do it for the bed, but i can for the extruder?
Because the bed is NOT stored in eeprom, it is only from firmware regardless of the referenced wiki - I do do Marlin dev work remember You are wasting your time until you edit configuration.h as already advised.
SO my chip on my board says REV E. Which board is this? Arduino?
I'd edit it if i could find it, having that issue even reading wards posts haha
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