Solidoodle 3 Mods, and issues. (Page 4 of 9)

cut a slit in the 'lid', about 50mm wide running from just past center to the rear center..

On the underside, attach some 70-80mm wide rubber strips to each side of the slit, arranged such that they overlap. Use rubber such as the sort attached to the bottom of doors as 'storm strips'...

Feed filament down from spool, through the rubberised 'door flap' and voila... as long as you have the 'party tray' style lid that bubbles up a good 25-30mm+ above the top of the metal frame, there will be more than enough room for a reasonably gentle arc to the extruder.

You can see what I did at the bottom of this page:

http://home.comcast.net/~tomhorsley/har … mount.html

I just made a big tall lid to enclose the spool and everything. It has been working well for me.

I started with an enclosure made from corugated board, magnets from old hard drives held it on nicely. I made the top a bit higher to accomadate a filament guide I designed that slots onto the back.

Here's that early enclosure:

Then recently I acquired soem glass shelves from a mobile TV unit, so I printed some clips. I still havent quite figured out how I'll attach the top, but the sides have weatherstrip foam to seal the edges and the clips have magnets embedded.

So here is it now:

I'vr just been laying a top over it to keep drafts out, I'll figure out a way to seal it later, it hasnt been needed with the ambient temp getting warmer every day here.

I just started reselling them in the US - cheaper and faster shipping to boot!

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/4415/e3d … stributor/

I will check it out. Will it work with the stock power supply?

The E3D uses a 40w heater. The stock Solidoodle resistor is around 30w. It'd probably be right on the limit with a stock power supply.

Its all in Adrian's thread.

New power supply if you want, no need for a solid state relay - the stock board (sanguinololu/printrboard) can handle the extra amp or so.

* Mic-6 plate showed up, so i will get on fabbing the table.

* had to do beef up the tubular roll holder with a few 45 brackets. 6 rolls up there got heavy.

Thinking about doing a dual power supply, one dedicated to the electronics, the other to the fans, and the new bed heater. I'd use a 12V relay to activate the heated bed taking the load off the little board.

Silicone heater 12V:
http://store.qu-bd.com/product.php?id_product=61

I hope this works better than my stock solidoodle bed, it takes way to long.

I really like the idea of the auto-retract insulated bed cover on thingverse:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:48699

Ahh! Ok i will look for one. I didn't think it was a true PID controller, so i thought it would turn on and off a lot slower when maintaining.

Sounds like your looking out for my mental health! hahaha. Sounds good. SSR it is!

Thanks to WARDJR, of Minnesota he posted this:

"  35765K482    Flexible Silicone-Rubber Heat Sheet, Adhesive Backing, 6" X 9" Strip, High Watts/Square Inch  $48
    8192K222    Long-Life Relay, 12 DC Control Voltage, 10 Amps at 100-240V AC  $20"

This would require me using wall power instead of a power supply for the heater which would eliminate the need for me to buy a seperate power supply. Also, the 9"x9" version is 810 watts of firey heat that i don't think i could pass up (already sick of waiting for it to heat up, and when its moved into shop, it will probably need a good amount of oomph cause its chilly).

New build plate installed with stock heater for now. It's literally dead flat at temp, except with the stock heater it takes 30 minutes to get up to 95c surface temp (115c programmed).

Ordered up new same size 120v heater, solid state relay, and relay heat sink.

Printed out mk5 extruded parts to prepare for the e3d hot end. Would like to print carriages and do the bearing mod also.

Thanks Ward, Adrian, and 2NR25.

Just waiting on the stuff to show up now. The part platter off amazon should arrive some time this week so i'll be fiddling with the new top, while waiting for the new heater to show up.

I was worried when the heater was on for 30 straight minutes that it would fry something, but it seemed like it did alright. It eventually did get it up to heat, just takes way to long. Really happy with the new build plate, just needs a more manly heater. haha