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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → Solidoodle 3 Mods, and issues.
It's actually quite functional haha. Better than the aluminum foil, and a bit more spacious. The aluminum made quite a bit of noise when things started to vibrate and rattle.
In the end the printer will eventually be cart mounted on something like this, with a decent enclosure.
http://www.harborfreight.com/16-inch-x- … -5107.html
Keep all my extra ABS and PLA in these bags so the moisture doesn't get to them.
I abandoned my 3D printed cable chain. Won some injected molded stuff online that is on its way. Printing the cable guide off thingverse as a test since its so tall, 401 layers vertically. Havent made something that tall yet so figured why not. Print time 3 hours and 45 minutes 
What is everyone else getting for print times on something like that? Is that a pretty general number or is that way to long?
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:94675/#files
Also noticed i was running V.85B of repetier. I see they offer .90C, is this stable yet?
Too many variables with print times. I have items that have taken 8+ hours and some small items thattake way longer than I expect.
Non exhaustive list of things that influence the time:
Layer heights
Fill percentage
Number of perimeters
Feed multiplier (or flow, I forget)
mm/s setting for different parts of the job
height
general size of object
whether don't cross perimters is on/off
Anyway... for a tall object I almost always use a wider brim to help cushion against any knocks. Since it's a spare part, you only need .3mm layer height.
Yes to Rh version. Install to the same directory to retain settings.
Re print times, it's a how long is a piece of string question. Layer speed is determined by the total size, movements, walls, wall thickness, infill, etc. You can print physically larger prints more quickly than physically smaller objects. Every change in direction means the print head returns to x-y keep speed and ramps back up, so printing a small 5 pointed star 10 layers high can take longer than a 15 layer square....
edit - fixed my own issue
Finally get a weekend off work, so i'm going to try and print up a anti-backlash nut, and a couple other mods. 
Printed a two part nut holder for the backlash mod this morning and they would not fit together as modeled. That led me to the nickel print test which failed. Nickel wouldn't slip through and outside dim was larger than the modeled 1.5in.
More calibration tests to come. Not out of the woods yet.
Well printed: The nickle test.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:84795
Nickle wouldn't fit through, and outside dimension was suppose to be 38.1mm, and was off by about 1mm. What is the first course of action i should take. The outside is to large, and the inside hole is to small. :\
Also, for some reason it will not let me apply a "skirt" as i once was able to. As soon as i turn it on, and than click save, it reverts my settings back to 0.
Also, for some reason it will not let me apply a "skirt" as i once was able to. As soon as i turn it on, and than click save, it reverts my settings back to 0.
You may be suffering from the same problem I had with the user interface:
Just click skirt up to the value you want +1, then save, then roll it back 1...
Its a bug
Adrian thanks!
Claghorn, going to sit down with a beer when i get home and read your website log. TON of good info! thanks for documenting it all.
Stopped by homedepot and picked up a few goodies. Used white extruded plastic for the sides and acrylic for the front on magnetic strips. The top can't be flat since the filament appears to make contact and places stress on the print head. I can only assume that would affect the print in some way or another. Gotta be crafty with the top.
Stopped by homedepot and picked up a few goodies. Used white extruded plastic for the sides and acrylic for the front on magnetic strips. The top can't be flat since the filament appears to make contact and places stress on the print head. I can only assume that would affect the print in some way or another. Gotta be crafty with the top.
Some people have been using this party tray for the top: (This is SD2 sized.)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E3W … &psc=1
Thanks! Just ordered it up. A whole 5 bucks with shipping haha.
12" square for SD3
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XG … os_product
Here is the build log for the controller i went with for the heater.
http://www.onemansbeer.com/keezer-build … ontroller/
I'm going to pickup a small 120V fan also, so the controller will able to heat, or cool the enclosure (ABS or PLA).
Not sure where i am going to mount the heater just yet. I'm going to continue to calibrate tonight, than cross that path tomorrow.
http://www.thingiverse.com/make:51537
Printed this out. suppose to be 3mm high, 15mm width, and overall length of 120mm.
Here are my results.
squareness is off just a hair, but well cross that bridge when i can get the dimensions closer.
have you done as I outlined back at http://www.soliforum.com/post/39613/#p39613 ?
Until you've worked through that checklist, you'll always be chasing dimensions. Its as simple as that.
Going to do that right now Adrian. My steps in "Y" were way off, along with my extruder steps per mm. Got those dialed in a bit more and my 120mm dimensions are now dead on. Aborted the print before i tested the height since my extruder gear is slipping. Closer inspection shows my bearing located across the gear, barely turns by hand.. Shouldn't this be free turning?
So the bearing that is across from the extruder gear was barely dirty. I removed the bearing from its cage and found that it did turn freely when not bolted in to the acrylic cage. They use 9.9mm washers, but they should not have used anything wider than 8mm. The washer contacts the inner body of the shielded bearing and doesn't let it spin. I've loosened it up a lot and it seems normal now. I'll have to locate the correct washers so i can snug it down tightly and not grab the body.
thin wall: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5573
Ok. set the perimeter to 1, and perimeter to .5 with 0 infill. Got the walls dialed in exactly! Continued the tests using the square.
square: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:27800
Went back to try the nickel test just to see improvement, but was having adhesion issues, so im calling it a night.
http://reprap.org/wiki/Printrboard
Does solidoodle utilize the E-Stop section of the printerboard? I see it is labeled but does not have any pins. Estop button would be great.
Also, I see a card reader, does this work for anything?
Also, Also, if i print a fan holder, which set of pins do i attach the fan to? (pic attached).
Also attached a pic of the anti-backlash mod. Spring was a little wider than needed but worked anyways.
Uploaded a fan cover i printed, and the thin wall test. 3rd time was the charm with the thin wall to dial the settings in.
http://reprap.org/wiki/Printrboard
Does solidoodle utilize the E-Stop section of the printerboard? I see it is labeled but does not have any pins. Estop button would be great.
In the current firmware for printrboard, the E-stop pin is not being used. Also, the function in the firmware is disabled (it is called KILL_PIN). You would need to solder a header onto the E-stop port. Although, I assume that using the RESET pin would do the same job. That is on the ICSP header with pins.
Also, I see a card reader, does this work for anything?
You can store gcode on an SD card and enable SD card support. Although, it currently will not work unless you change the Y-endstop to use the E-STOP header. The Y-endstop is using the SD libraries default hardware chip select, and enabling SD support while using that pin as an endstop (which the printrboard design does) makes everything messed up. The fix: Move the endstop over and rename the pin in firmware.
Current progress: http://www.soliforum.com/topic/4236/bet … ll-boards/
Without an LCD, running a print job on the SD card requires already being connected to Repetier Host. Although, I will be testing out the auto insertion function tomorrow (if you name the gcode file auto0.g and put it in the root of the SD card, its supposed to auto-run when inserted. Then you would not need to have a PC or LCD to run print jobs, although you do need good logical start-Gcode to enable your heaters and make sure you do not have oozing during warmup).
Also, Also, if i print a fan holder, which set of pins do i attach the fan to? (pic attached).
Since the fan uses 12v, the best place to attach the fan is the unused fan header. It sits between the thermistor inputs and the LED/FAN terminals. And again, it is not enabled by default in the firmware, you will need to assign the pin number in Marlin.
Would it be hard to turn on the fan pins in marlin? I assume marlin is a program to alter the firmware?
Also, How hard is it to remove the heater from the stock aluminum build plate. Is it even worth it or should i opt for a better heater? Just ordered up some 3/8" Mic-6 plate for a new surface which is going to be NICE!!! Stock build plate has warped so far out of whack there is no use keeping it as its junk. I should throw some layup dye on it and rub it against a surface plate for a good laugh.
Will move to classified section.
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