Solidoodle 3 Mods, and issues. (Page 8 of 9)

Yep, that's what I meant.  Basically if you have a 1 mm lip and your extrusion width is .48.  Slic3r would know what to do if perimeters were set to one.  When it extrudes both sides (the perimeter) you'd get .96 mm's.  However if you have perimeters set to 2 it is not sure what to do since that would be 1.96 mm's.  Therefore it just fills in the whole thing.
Does that make sence?

Seemed to slice fine...

BTW, you posted the Solidworks file, not the .stl; I opened it in SW and you do have some errors in your secondary extruded cut geometry.  You may want to repair that, but I processed the .stl as it was and it seemed to work OK.

Here is the .stl I processed:

i use a heavy weight paper as a gauge .1 mm thick . I set it so it has a slight drag and it works great .  I recently replaced my heater pad with a larger one from Ebay
Seller     solidset
Solidoodle 3 Replacement Silicone HeatPad HeatBed 200mm x 200mm or 8" x 8"
( 191285757844 )  .

Pulls twice the current , heats the bed up in 1/3 the time the original did , heats the bed area more evenly then the original . Cost was about $21.   DOES REQUIRE!!!!!!! a relay hooked to original board pins , and i used a more powerful 20 Amp power supply . I had had many sticking problems before I did this upgrade. I tried every solution offered ,ABS glue ,glue sticks (5 different brands) ,sand blasted glass, painters tape , hairspray ,  added brims to prints ,all kinds of temp settings  I tried them all . I did this upgrade went back to simple glass bed with cheap hairspray and add a 4 mm brim to all my  prints and went from 60 % failure to stick rate to less than 5% ( usually if I get lazy and don't  respray after 2 prints in same area it will lift a corner or 2 ). Hope this helps it worked great for me. Bill D

So whats up with thingiverse, went to login and having hard time finding my account, than i find some A hole who took my name...

All good here!!! Glad to see you back.

Pretty much but seems like a waste of effort to me.
What versions of RH and Slic3r are you currently using?

You must have been using some pretty old versions
Glad you're up and running.

I sent you a PM

Another quick test. Going to print a pen holder next.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:481276

150,000 lines of code, and 3.5 hours into a massive plastic nut thats 1.5 scaled up, I find it FROZEN! Nothing indicating what went wront, heat on extruder and table still on (house burner). Nothing in melt down mode though. I believe my webcam app i was using for time lapse froze? Anyways, saw where it left off in the Gcode, repetier doesn't make it easy as I could figure out to restart from a specific line, and editing is a nightmare inside their "edit" with that many lines of code.

http://notepad-plus-plus.org/download/v6.7.4.html

Attempted to use notepad, and wouldn't let me scroll through tens of thousands of lines of code very easy. Used notepad++ and allows you to pick your start and end point to delete without having to click and drag.. super easy.. heated up extruder and table, zero all 3 axis, moved back to my last line of code manually, loaded the edited g code and matched up perfectly! So far this is the longest it has printed so well see how it goes if it freezes again. Ive abandoned my webcam app for now, which is free and easy to use "chrono-lapse". I'd like to add electronics cooling fan, since i can only imagine things are toasty back there.

Wow! That's crazy. Ya, I don't trust it any more... holy crap.