Topic: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.
I thought I'd share this collection of issues with the Press that I've gathered so far. I plan to add them to my checklist for when mine arrives.
Just to be clear, none of these fixes are from me, and I'm sorry for not giving proper credit to everyone for their contributions. I didn't think about keeping track of that when I first started taking notes. So, a BIG thank you to everyone for your input. I love this forum, I've learned so much already.
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ISSUE: Grinding noise when moving to the back of the machine.
CAUSE: The wiring bundle going to the extruder gets behind the carriage and stops it from hitting the limit switch, so it keeps trying to drive it.
FIX: Basically you need to get the wiring bundle held out of the way. Here are several things that have been tried:
FIX 1: Loop a rubber band around the wiring bundle, then pull the hinge pin out of the top cover so you can put the other end around it, & put it back in place. (Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A44Nos4 … e=youtu.be)
FIX 2: Use a couple of light springs, etc. (Thread with pictures link: http://www.soliforum.com/topic/9297/att … ew-prints/)
FIX 3: Print with the top cover open.
FIX 4: Print the Solidoodle 4 cable clip on thingiverse and use it to hold the cable out of the way.
FIX 5: If it just won't stay out of the way, it was suggested to add an extension onto the y-axis limit switch it so that it can be activated before hitting the cables.
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ISSUE: A knocking/thumping sound is coming from the extruder stepper.
CAUSE: This is because the grub/set screw on the hobbed gear can be loose.
FIX: Check that it is aligned with the flat part of the shaft & tighten it with a 1.5mm wrench. If you move the wires on the left (where the probe is) you can access it through the heat sink fins. If it is missing, Solidoodle confirmed that it is an m3 x 3 set screw.
added 2/1/15 - (thanks to scruffybob, see post 35 of this thread for more info.)
ISSUE: Extruder stepper going thump, thump, thump but not turning.
CAUSE: The wiring bundle going to the extruder gets frayed and breaks.
FIX: Resolder the wires on the connector on the top of the extruder stepper.
Note: You may have to readjust all of the trimpots after you fix the connector.
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ISSUE: The print head crashes into the print bed while trying to calibrate or home the Z axis.
CAUSE: The bed-height probe doubles as the Z limit switch, so if it isn't extended, it can't tell when to stop.
FIX 1: Home X & Y before trying to home Z. It should extend the Z limit switch using the “ramps” on the far left side of the printer. (See ISSUE #1 above if it can't go far enough to the left to contact them.)
FIX 2: The bed-height probe can also be extended manually. Push down the little black peg on the left side above the probe that sticks out horizontally to the left. (thanks to krel)
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Edit: It was pointed out that this does not apply to the Press. Sorry for my misunderstanding.
ISSUE: The extruder gear is grinding into the filament.
CAUSE: Swing arm tension, or low temp. Also, Solidoodle black filament can be more troublesome because it is softer than others.
FIX: Here's an excerpt from a Solidoodle employee (thanks to Ian Johnson).
-First, tighten the swing arm, but make sure you leave the spring enough room to compress. Otherwise the extruder will not be able to compensate for variations in filament diameter.
-Increase your temperature by 5-10 degrees. Don't push it to high (210C MAX) otherwise the barrel might become hot enough to soften PEEK retainer.
-Lower your print bed and extrude 100mm of filament. If the filament comes out smooth without any skipping or shredding you should be good to go. Try printing a couple small parts as a test.
I will not say this will fix issues for everyone, because I simply don't have a sample of everybody's filament. But it has worked with all the problem filament I have tried so far.
If you want to give your problem filament another go, follow these steps and respond with your results
Cheers.
TJ
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ISSUE: The connection to the bed heater seems VERY tight. When the bed is raised to the uppermost position, the cable is pulled taught, and actually appears to be pulling the heater from the bottom of the build plate.
CAUSE: Not enough slack left in the wiring.
FIX: There should be plenty of extra wire left inside. On the underside are 2 screws holding an access door with all electronics (If you flip over the Press, there's two sets of visible screws. You want to unscrew the smaller of the two sets.) Add a few wire ties to the four black wires to the heater bed (like they did) and push an extra inch or 2 through. Then press the heat "mat" back in place, and screw back the access door. (thanks to bot719 & TumberRumblerz)
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ISSUE: The printer is not printing the correct size on the Y axis. Circular objects have large flat spots on them.
CAUSE: There was a loose set-screw on the Y-axis shaft (there is a small belt from the stepper to the shaft).
FIX: Tighten the set-screw(s) to remove the "play" that was in that belt. (thanks to Dream-Cypher)
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ISSUE: SoliPrint won't connect to the Press.
CAUSE: Unknown.
FIX: Try to start SoliPrint first, & then boot the Press.
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ISSUE: SoliPrint fails to find your printer on Windows 8.1.
CAUSE: Windows 8.1 has security restrictions in place to not trust unsigned drivers and not even prompt the user to approve them.
FIX: (http://wiki.solidoodle.com/installing-drivers), it was suggested to download the driver under the manual install section & right click on the executable, and select run as administrator. Then follow the prompts. (thanks to cptskippy)
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ISSUE: Prints don't want to stick to the bed.
CAUSE: Common problem printing with ABS. Or, possibly from “auto-leveling” not working properly.
FIX: Remove the glass, wipe it down with acetone, then either make a couple passes with a glue stick, or hit it with extra hold hairspray (a generous mist is all you need). Let it dry for a few then heat your bed back up for printing (thanks to AZERATE) .
FIX 2: If it's an ISSUE with auto-leveling (and the bed is not physically level), try manually leveling the bed. You have to remove the glass and use a M3 key to tighten/loosen (lower/raise) the four screws around the bed. Once done, place the glass back on the bed. If you manually change the bed level you should always rerun auto-calibration. (edited, thanks to MacGyverX & DePartedPrinter) Also, here's a video for older models for reference: http://vimeo.com/55450537. Edit: It appears that there isn't enough play in the bed screws to adjust it without some modifications.
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Of course, if you find or hear about an Issue not listed above, add it here (with a Cause and Fix, if known).
Modeling software: 123D Design