1 (edited by mwille 2015-02-01 17:27:12)

Topic: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

I thought I'd share this collection of issues with the Press that I've gathered so far.  I plan to add them to my checklist for when mine arrives. 

Just to be clear, none of these fixes are from me, and I'm sorry for not giving proper credit to everyone for their contributions.  I didn't think about keeping track of that when I first started taking notes.  So, a BIG thank you to everyone for your input.  I love this forum, I've learned so much already.

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ISSUE:  Grinding noise when moving to the back of the machine.
CAUSE:  The wiring bundle going to the extruder gets behind the carriage and stops it from hitting the limit switch, so it keeps trying to drive it.
FIX:  Basically you need to get the wiring bundle held out of the way.  Here are several things that have been tried:
FIX 1:  Loop a rubber band around the wiring bundle, then pull the hinge pin out of the top cover so you can put the other end around it, & put it back in place.  (Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A44Nos4 … e=youtu.be)
FIX 2:  Use a couple of light springs, etc. (Thread with pictures link: http://www.soliforum.com/topic/9297/att … ew-prints/)
FIX 3:  Print with the top cover open.
FIX 4:  Print the Solidoodle 4 cable clip on thingiverse and use it to hold the cable out of the way.
FIX 5:  If it just won't stay out of the way, it was suggested to add an extension onto the y-axis limit switch it so that it can be activated before hitting the cables.

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ISSUE:  A knocking/thumping sound is coming from the extruder stepper. 
CAUSE:  This is because the grub/set screw on the hobbed gear can be loose.
FIX: Check that it is aligned with the flat part of the shaft & tighten it with a 1.5mm wrench.  If you move the wires on the left (where the probe is) you can access it through the heat sink fins.  If it is missing, Solidoodle confirmed that it is an m3 x 3 set screw.

added 2/1/15 - (thanks to scruffybob, see post 35 of this thread for more info.)
ISSUE:  Extruder stepper going thump, thump, thump but not turning.
CAUSE:  The wiring bundle going to the extruder gets frayed and breaks.
FIX:  Resolder the wires on the connector on the top of the extruder stepper.
Note: You may have to readjust all of the trimpots after you fix the connector.

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ISSUE:  The print head crashes into the print bed while trying to calibrate or home the Z axis.
CAUSE:   The bed-height probe doubles as the Z limit switch, so if it isn't extended, it can't tell when to stop.
FIX 1:  Home X & Y before trying to home Z.  It should extend the Z limit switch using the “ramps” on the far left side of the printer.  (See ISSUE #1 above if it can't go far enough to the left to contact them.)
FIX 2:  The bed-height probe can also be extended manually.  Push down the little black peg on the left side above the probe that sticks out horizontally to the left. (thanks to krel)

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Edit: It was pointed out that this does not apply to the Press.  Sorry for my misunderstanding.
ISSUE:  The extruder gear is grinding into the filament.
CAUSE:  Swing arm tension, or low temp.  Also, Solidoodle black filament can be more troublesome because it is softer than others. 
FIX:  Here's an excerpt from a Solidoodle employee (thanks to Ian Johnson). 
     -First, tighten the swing arm, but make sure you leave the spring enough room to compress. Otherwise the extruder will not be able to compensate for variations in filament diameter.
      -Increase your temperature by 5-10 degrees. Don't push it to high (210C MAX) otherwise the barrel might become hot enough to soften PEEK retainer.
      -Lower your print bed and extrude 100mm of filament. If the filament comes out smooth without any skipping or shredding you should be good to go. Try printing a couple small parts as a test.

        I will not say this will fix issues for everyone, because I simply don't have a sample of everybody's filament. But it has worked with all the problem filament I have tried so far.
        If you want to give your problem filament another go, follow these steps and respond with your results

        Cheers.
        TJ

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ISSUE:  The connection to the bed heater seems VERY tight.  When the bed is raised to the uppermost position, the cable is pulled taught, and actually appears to be pulling the heater from the bottom of the build plate.
CAUSE:  Not enough slack left in the wiring.
FIX:  There should be plenty of extra wire left inside.  On the underside are 2 screws holding an access door with all electronics (If you flip over the Press, there's two sets of visible screws. You want to unscrew the smaller of the two sets.)  Add a few wire ties to the four black wires to the heater bed (like they did) and push an extra inch or 2 through. Then press the heat "mat" back in place, and screw back the access door. (thanks to bot719 & TumberRumblerz)

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ISSUE:  The printer is not  printing the correct size on the Y axis.  Circular objects have large flat spots on them.
CAUSE:  There was a loose set-screw on the Y-axis shaft (there is a small belt from the stepper to the shaft). 
FIX:  Tighten the set-screw(s) to remove the "play" that was in that belt. (thanks to Dream-Cypher)

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ISSUE:  SoliPrint won't connect to the Press.
CAUSE:  Unknown.
FIX:  Try to start SoliPrint first, & then boot the Press. 

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ISSUE:  SoliPrint fails to find your printer on Windows 8.1.
CAUSE:  Windows 8.1 has security restrictions in place to not trust unsigned drivers and not even prompt the user to approve them.
FIX:  (http://wiki.solidoodle.com/installing-drivers), it was suggested to download the driver under the manual install section & right click on the executable, and select run as administrator.  Then follow the prompts. (thanks to cptskippy)

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ISSUE:  Prints don't want to stick to the bed.
CAUSE:  Common problem printing with ABS.  Or, possibly from “auto-leveling” not working properly.
FIX:  Remove the glass, wipe it down with acetone, then either make a couple passes with a glue stick, or hit it with extra hold hairspray (a generous mist is all you need). Let it dry for a few then heat your bed back up for printing (thanks to AZERATE) .
FIX 2:  If it's an ISSUE with auto-leveling (and the bed is not physically level), try manually leveling the bed.  You have to remove the glass and use a M3 key to tighten/loosen (lower/raise) the four screws around the bed. Once done, place the glass back on the bed.  If you manually change the bed level you should always rerun auto-calibration. (edited, thanks to MacGyverX & DePartedPrinter)  Also, here's a video for older models for reference: http://vimeo.com/55450537. Edit: It appears that there isn't enough play in the bed screws to adjust it without some modifications.

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Of course, if you find or hear about an Issue not listed above, add it here (with a Cause and Fix, if known).

SD Press
Modeling software: 123D Design

2

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

ISSUE:  The extruder gear is grinding into the filament.
CAUSE:  Swing arm tension, or low temp.  Also, Solidoodle black filament can be more troublesome because it is softer than others. 
FIX:  Here's an excerpt from a Solidoodle employee (thanks to Ian Johnson). 
     -First, tighten the swing arm, but make sure you leave the spring enough room to compress. Otherwise the extruder will not be able to compensate for variations in filament diameter.
      -Increase your temperature by 5-10 degrees. Don't push it to high (210C MAX) otherwise the barrel might become hot enough to soften PEEK retainer.
      -Lower your print bed and extrude 100mm of filament. If the filament comes out smooth without any skipping or shredding you should be good to go. Try printing a couple small parts as a test.

        I will not say this will fix issues for everyone, because I simply don't have a sample of everybody's filament. But it has worked with all the problem filament I have tried so far.
        If you want to give your problem filament another go, follow these steps and respond with your results

        Cheers.
        TJ


Those instructions don't really apply.  I do not think a peek insulator is used on this one.  Also another poster said he took apart the  sqing arm and found a spring that cannot be tension adjusted.  Also the press runs its extruder at 250c not 210.

3

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

-Increase your temperature by 5-10 degrees. Don't push it to high (210C MAX) otherwise the barrel might become hot enough to soften PEEK retainer.

i was under impression the press was an all metal hot end?

SD2 - mirror bed - e3d v6 - extruder cooling fan - no enclosure.

4

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

proctor_richard wrote:

-Increase your temperature by 5-10 degrees. Don't push it to high (210C MAX) otherwise the barrel might become hot enough to soften PEEK retainer.

i was under impression the press was an all metal hot end?


It is, 210C is a little low on the Press. Default in Soliprint is 250C

SD2 with E3D, SD Press, Form 1+
Filastruder
NYLON (taulman): http://www.soliforum.com/topic/466/nylon/

5

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

Thanks for the info guys.  I edited my post to explain it doesn't apply to the Press.

SD Press
Modeling software: 123D Design

6

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

jmarsh4087 wrote:

I'm trying to print a very complex .stl (250,000+ triangles), and Soliprint seems to be thinking hard, but even after letting it sit for 1.5 hours, the print won't start. Do you have any advice? It seems I can't link the model here, but I can specify that it's called jellyfish lampshade from Thingiverse, and I'm trying to print specifically the file for the top.

Please don't derail/hijack a great thread with a question like this, create a new post. Keep this one Issue-Solution format.

Solidoodle Press
SolidWorks 2014

7

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

Can we please get this thread stickied?

8

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

krel wrote:

Can we please get this thread stickied?

Done!!!

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

9 (edited by MacGyverX 2015-01-19 20:02:19)

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

The bed of the Press can be leveled manually. You have to remove the glass and use a M3 key to tighten/loosen (lower/raise) the four screws around the bed. Once done, place the glass back on the bed.

SD Press - v1 (Pre-order) / RAMPs /w DRV8825's / Cyclops (25w) / Dual Bowden / Mk8 Gear / MK2b PCB Heat bed /w custom replacement Z / PEI Bed
SD2 / E3D v6 / Direct Drive / Mk8 Gear / RAMBo v1.3 / PEI Bed / Anti Z backlash mod / Ikea Expedite enclosure.
Both Driven by Octoprint (devel) via a RPi B+ / Neopixel status alerts / GPIO Controlled SSR / (SD2) 450 Watt PSU for remote power-up/shutdown.

10

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

If the bed of the Press is leveled manually, will the auto-calibration still see it as off? My bed I think is a little low on the top left corner, so I was wondering if I were to adjust the level on that screw, will the auto-calibration over-compensate?

11

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

aeschneider.tech wrote:

If the bed of the Press is leveled manually, will the auto-calibration still see it as off? My bed I think is a little low on the top left corner, so I was wondering if I were to adjust the level on that screw, will the auto-calibration over-compensate?

If you manually change the bed level you should always rerun auto-calibration.

SD2 with E3D, SD Press, Form 1+
Filastruder
NYLON (taulman): http://www.soliforum.com/topic/466/nylon/

12

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

My Son just received his Press which had the same problems as everyone else to get his first print. My question is can the extruder really handle the default setting of 250c? I print on my sd4 at 200c with the stock extruder and every thing works just fine. Why is it set so hot?

13

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

SD4 measures the nozzle temperature. Press measures the heater temperature. Two different things.

14

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

mwille wrote:

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ISSUE:  The printer is not  printing the correct size on the Y axis.  Circular objects have large flat spots on them.
CAUSE:  There was a loose set-screw on the Y-axis shaft (there is a small belt from the stepper to the shaft). 
FIX:  Tighten the set-screw(s) to remove the "play" that was in that belt. (thanks to Dream-Cypher)

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Can you post a picture of this symptom and the fix/set-screw?

Please and thanks!

15 (edited by Dream-Cypher 2015-01-21 16:58:30)

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

worldburger wrote:
mwille wrote:

------------------------------------------

ISSUE:  The printer is not  printing the correct size on the Y axis.  Circular objects have large flat spots on them.
CAUSE:  There was a loose set-screw on the Y-axis shaft (there is a small belt from the stepper to the shaft). 
FIX:  Tighten the set-screw(s) to remove the "play" that was in that belt. (thanks to Dream-Cypher)

------------------------------------------

Can you post a picture of this symptom and the fix/set-screw?

Please and thanks!

I'm not sure if I saved the part that had the flat sides on a circle, but I did post a picture of a failed cube that was due to the same problem... The first layer would print correctly, but each layer after that was smaller, due to the slipping of the gear.  You can also see a slight build up of material in the upper left and lower right corners, where the printhead continued to extrude plastic while it wasn't actually moving.

http://i.imgur.com/6aGZFLN.jpg

As for the location of the gear, there are two, at the back left of the printer.  Each has two set screws.  I needed to tighten the set screws on the one closer to the back of the printer. 

I'll try to get some pictures tonight, or someone else could post one, if they are familiar with the gears I'm referring to.

Dave

16

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

ISSUE:  A knocking/thumping sound is coming from the extruder stepper. 
CAUSE:  This is because the grub/set screw on the hobbed gear can be loose.
Same issue but it is not the set screw, as it is tight. I am trying to help my son buy phone as he lives 60 miles away and I can hear the knocking sound over the phone and he says nothing is turning. When he pushes on the filament it stops clunking and starts extruding but it will stop extruding sometimes while printing. I'm thinking that it is a nozzle clogging problem, that is why I asked about the temp setting. My thought was to remove and clean the nozzle but does removing the nozzle void his solicare? He has contacted them but has not received a response, I bet their busy! My other thought was to check the stepper pot's output, but again that warranty issue. Any suggestions would be appreciated as we are at a loss to find the cause of this problem.

17

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

CobbCrawler wrote:

ISSUE:  A knocking/thumping sound is coming from the extruder stepper. 
CAUSE:  This is because the grub/set screw on the hobbed gear can be loose.
Same issue but it is not the set screw, as it is tight. I am trying to help my son buy phone as he lives 60 miles away and I can hear the knocking sound over the phone and he says nothing is turning. When he pushes on the filament it stops clunking and starts extruding but it will stop extruding sometimes while printing. I'm thinking that it is a nozzle clogging problem, that is why I asked about the temp setting. My thought was to remove and clean the nozzle but does removing the nozzle void his solicare? He has contacted them but has not received a response, I bet their busy! My other thought was to check the stepper pot's output, but again that warranty issue. Any suggestions would be appreciated as we are at a loss to find the cause of this problem.

Does he have any other filament to try?  Some of us have had this problem go away by using a better filament.

18

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

Yes we did try a good quality filament which helped some but the problem still persists.The motor seams to be trying and making noise but not rotating!

19

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

CobbCrawler wrote:

ISSUE:  A knocking/thumping sound is coming from the extruder stepper. 
CAUSE:  This is because the grub/set screw on the hobbed gear can be loose.
Same issue but it is not the set screw, as it is tight. I am trying to help my son buy phone as he lives 60 miles away and I can hear the knocking sound over the phone and he says nothing is turning. When he pushes on the filament it stops clunking and starts extruding but it will stop extruding sometimes while printing. I'm thinking that it is a nozzle clogging problem, that is why I asked about the temp setting. My thought was to remove and clean the nozzle but does removing the nozzle void his solicare? He has contacted them but has not received a response, I bet their busy! My other thought was to check the stepper pot's output, but again that warranty issue. Any suggestions would be appreciated as we are at a loss to find the cause of this problem.

Solution instructions should mention that one must check that said screw is aligned with the cut-off on the extruder motor shaft before tightening.

20

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

CobbCrawler wrote:

Yes we did try a good quality filament which helped some but the problem still persists.The motor seams to be trying and making noise but not rotating!

I am having the exact same issue. Tried with the ABS the Press arrived with. I also tried with other ABS and two different PLA spools. This is quite maddening.

It was working fine until I tried the first PLA print. I am thinking that it is a clogged nozzle or that the grooved wheel that feeds the extruder is slipping. If a clog... oh no!  If the wheel, how on earth do I tighten it up?

Cheers.

The secret of getting ahead is getting started.
- Mark Twain... maybe.

21

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

As of yet the press is not capable or set up for the printing of PLA. Every time this machine starts to extrude either manually or in between moves while printing it struggles to get going, the clunking sound a few times and then it starts to extrude or most of the time clunks and no extrusion at all. He checked and there are no bends in the filament after the drive wheel, I'm thinking a bad motor, low voltage or a machining bur in the nozzle or heat break. Not only maddening but disappointing. We are still waiting for a response from SD on what to do... Just got a call, and last night he raised the extruder temp to 265c still  a few clunks but it finally finished a print, Hmmm, inaccurate readings or a bad hot end may be the problem but at least it printed, yeah.

22

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

I managed to clog my nozzle and cleared it.  http://www.soliforum.com/topic/9276/clo … -to-clear/

I used a drillbit to remove all the material I could then soaked it in acetone to dissolve the rest.

23 (edited by CobbCrawler 2015-01-23 18:31:25)

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

No, good quality ABS only, again the Press CANNOT use PLA as shipped. And yes as Dumas said, make sure the set screw is on the flat of the motor shaft. Support just sent a lot of very good information to my son, thanks guys. As with my SD4 which required tweaks and adjustments to get it printing properly the Press will require the same in some cases. Remember, as I told my Son, these are a  sensitive machine and being shipped half way around the world can't be good for them. If your having problems contact there support team and/or search this forum, there is a lot of good information available here. The people here helped me a lot with my SD4 printer as they are doing now with those who purchased the Press.

24

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

domas wrote:

Solution instructions should mention that one must check that said screw is aligned with the cut-off on the extruder motor shaft before tightening.

This is included now.  Thanks for the clarification.

SD Press
Modeling software: 123D Design

25

Re: Initial Issues with the SD Press & How to Fix Them.

Is anyone having an issue where the Z-axis probing *works,* but then the extruder tried to punch through the bed as soon as you try to *print* anything?  I'm having this happen with every print attempt, and it even happens when I run the Z-axis calibration program in SoliPrint (I haven't had time to try RH yet).  Video here: youtube.com/watch?v=m0rgiUxy50k
Jogging manually out of the collision, it looks like I have a roughly 1.9mm overshoot of the extruder "through" the bed.  I tried adding a large (5mm) Fine Tuning offset in the Z-axis Calibration window, but it didn't have any affect -- Any print attempt gave the same collision.