Re: Glass Bed
M3 Motherboard standoffs can be added to the screw to extend the length. That is what I used.
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → Glass Bed
M3 Motherboard standoffs can be added to the screw to extend the length. That is what I used.
I saw danny post about the glass bed instead of aluminum and new heater wire.
Has anyone just tried using existing alu, bed and adding better heaters?
there are some people adding silocone heaters.
I think that the solidoodle company have improved the design with the SD3 to use a proper heat pad.
there's no reason you couldn't use a silicone heat pad underneath the existing aluminium bed, remove the power resistor and find a way to attach the pad...
but unless your bed is flat you may still have the problem of warping. -that's the main problem I believe that most people who are changing the bed are trying to over come.
Yes Mine is not flat about .2mm run out or about 5 thousandsths.
Simple solution I pull the b* off and take it to my machine shop and grind it.
I sanded my aluminum plate on a piece of glass using progressively finer sand paper to 600 grit.
To attach I used the existing 5 screws using a x acto knife to make slots that miss the wires embedded in the pad.
I used Permatex Ultra Copper Silicone Gasket Sealant to glue the edges that were drooping.
Yes Mine is not flat about .2mm run out or about 5 thousandsths.
Simple solution I pull the b* off and take it to my machine shop and grind it.
I was finding that the warping would change as the bed was heated.
I could measure when cold and see one set of measurements, then measure with hot...
in the end I made a dial gauge mount and took measurements over the entire bed at 10mm points on a grid.
I did it with the bed cold and with it hot, then I realised I was chasing a moving target that I doubted could ever be fixed and then decided that I was sick of wasting my time possibly going a little bit mad and went and got a sheet of glass.
At a guess I'd suggest that the warping that changes as the heat changes is related to internal stresses that may have been introduced during the rolling process that first formed the aluminium sheet that the beds are cut from.
with the proper equipment I could have annealed the bed to relieve internal stresses, then I could have ground the bed flat...
but it's just easier/cheaper/less specialised to go the glass bed route.
Some customizable bed clips just got thrown up on thingiverse.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:56021
Some customizable bed clips just got thrown up on thingiverse.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:56021
Wouldn't they get soft at full temp?
Most likely. Might work for PLA printing though.
I posted something similar a couple months ago, The clips do loosen over time. I would get a couple days work in ABS at 90c before they lost their holding power..
I've been printing for the last week using the glass / hairspray method.
IMHO the print bed is one of the very first mods people need to make! The quality of the prints are night and day. I only wish i had found the time to make it this mod earlier because it solved 99% of my headaches dealing with the leveled bed and sticking nicely.
3DPrinting Gods: Thank you for the glass bed mod!
so glass bed will not work properly with ABS?
Glass bed with work with PLA or ABS (if heated)
Made my own mini-screw clamps. Looks a bit rudimental but they work and the glass stays where it should be
So much for quick change though. I'm frankly surprised this hasn't been more widely adopted. I can swap out a glass plate in under 10 seconds.
So much for quick change though. I'm frankly surprised this hasn't been more widely adopted. I can swap out a glass plate in under 10 seconds.
Saw that before making my clamps. Not sure if the glass plates always have the same level after exchange? whst glue did you use to put the magnets to the glass?
The metal straps are always set a little lower than the magnets so the magnet actually pulls them up creating downward pressure on the glass against the aluminum bed. It is as repeatable as you can get as long as your glass thickness is the same.
If you read through the thread I ended up going with larger earth magnets, I beleive they are 1/4" diameter by 1/8 thick or something. Anything will work because you bend the straps to suit.
JB Weld is what I used for the final pieces.
So I've done the glass bed, leveled and applied Aquanet hairspray, yet everyprint it seems that the back of it comes unstuck about 60 lines in
Bed Temp 103.5C currently
Can you take a pic of the first layer only?
Enclosing the chamber will definitely help too.
Can you take a pic of the first layer only?
Enclosing the chamber will definitely help too.
I do have an enclosure, as crude as it may be. and the first layer sticks great, curling doesn't occur until about the 30min mark...
It seems that the more hairspray, the better it sticks, and I haven't ha mid print curling for the past few hours.
So much for quick change though. I'm frankly surprised this hasn't been more widely adopted. I can swap out a glass plate in under 10 seconds.
Magnetic bed holders rule
It seems that the more hairspray, the better it sticks, and I haven't ha mid print curling for the past few hours.
Pretty much, but eventually you will throw off the flatness from so much hairspray and you have to change out the plate to keep the nozzle from dragging and clogging... (hairspray comes off the glass very well in the dishwasher btw). I just keep 8 plates that I can rotate on, the off to a dirty pile, then to the DW at night. That's how I roll.
I have the new bed in now and will do a comparison between today between the QU-BD + Resistor, QU-BD, and the new heater (it is a sil-mat just like the QU-BD, just the correct size so it fits in between the leveling screws.) I can post pictures if someone wants, but it really looks just like any other sil-mat heater. (you could google it and see the same thing)
I knew going into this I wanted to do the Glass bed mod on my Solidoodle 3. But I didn't realize just how much work it is to get the ABS to stick on the stock bed. Last night after struggling for 3 days finally got some glass, and it is amazing how much better it is. was finally able to print some parts for a top mount spindle system from thingiverse.com
So great that someone figured this out. now to design some brackets for the Solidoodle 3 for magnetic retention of the glass.
Apparently I am so new I cant post links.
Magnetic has been done a couple different ways already.
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/814/magn … -mounting/
Welcome to the fun
saw that cmetzel, but not going to do something so horrible looking to my machine. lol
You can do the same thing but with printed brackets and an embedded magnet in each instead of the metal. I always intended to do that but since this is working so well my lazyness took over. It ain't broke so I don't fix it. At least the concept is proven. Even lawsys new clips in his bed heater thread are beautiful, but no match for the speed and ease that I can swap out and not have a single thing above z zero to worry about.
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