Glass Bed (Page 8 of 9)

I had same problem, until I made sure that the glass was at temperature for at last 10 minutes. That thermistor is on the bottom of the bed under the aluminum. It reaches 100 much faster than the top of the glass does. Also, if your print is large and/or solid, glass alone is not enough, you may have to use a brim too.

As for Solidoodle shipping glass, I doubt it. While regular glass does work, it is prone to breakage or shattering. Something I would not sell with a printer. And shipping it with Pyrex or Robax is expensive.

Rocketman, (burning up your fuse up here alone) I think you can keep the temp where it is. The glass bed acts as a heat sink, so it will take a bit longer to heat. Wait even after the temp reading says 100C because that is the actual bed temp, the glass will still absorb heat from the bed for a while before it also gets up to temp. After the glass is well and truly heated, the thermistor reading should be considered as accurate as it ever was.

My $.02

If I had an object that is exactly 6 inches tall, how do I make sure Repetier knows I actually have a certain amount less vertical to work with when using glass? Assuming I use the full length of the Z limit switch screw, does the 6 inches SD2 promises start from there? lol.

When printing on glass does it tend to curl in time? I have a sheet that appears to now rise up in the corners, and depending on the print I might not always be able to place clips there to hold it down firmly. Does glass get warped to that degree from repeated us (say less than 10 print jobs)?

It's just $3 6 by 6 picture frame glass. What do you use?

Just wanted to chime in that I finally got around to getting a glass bed after almost a year of ownership. This is just an unbelievably simple and useful mod that I should have done on day one! I couldn't find a 6x6 picture frame so i'm using some window pane glass (with the help of a glass cutter). I've also used some hair spray and my prints have been coming out wonderfully.

Simple way to attach glass bed without clips... hear me out...  super glue! 

1) lay down some painters tape on your bed in an x pattern, corners to corners
2) put single drops of super glue on the bottom of your glass, the four corners and the center
3) place your glass

if you have to take it off, peel the painters tape with it or, if you used little enough glue, the glass might just pop off the tape.

The main reason I did this was to keep my print area as large as possible without the chance of the extruder running over the clips, potentially damaging it, or getting caught.

I have been running strong with this method for over two months now, no ill effects...

I've said it before and I will say it again.  Leave the Kapton on the platform then spray the underside of your glass with the same hairspray you put on the top side.  Put the glass on your platform and heat it up.  No clips, perfectly level glass and it sticks well enough to not move and is still easy enough to remove.  And no I don't have to respray every time I remove it.
I run my bed at 108 and everything seems happy.

Some people use high grit sand paper and claim to have near perfect results with adhesion since the first layer and actually grip.
Sandblasting in specific? I never operated one, so I couldn't say...

Ok, thanks guys..

Right, like a mold interior... thanks.