Glass Bed (Page 4 of 9)

There are 6x6 pcb beds available  I think there's even a couple on ebay.

Just as a reference,  I got some glass panel today.  Using white rain extra hold from Dollar tree and had good stick, no corner lifting on something I surely would have had lift issues with kapton. Looks like fun from here on forward. We will see how it goes.

I'm trying to drill 1/8 hole (for M3 bolts) in 1/8 glass.   The bits are carbide, and I just tried the next size up in case I messed up the 1/8 bit.  I've been drilling the borosilicate pieces, but an attempt on one of my regular printing plates broke too.  So far I've made 5 attempts and broken each one.  I've been creeping the drill press along maybe .2mm at a time. 

Should I be using thicker glass?  Is it harder to keep 1/8 glass from breaking?

here is a link to some RTV used for gasket making it stays plyable and is good to 700° F
http://www.permatex.com/products/produc … ker-detail

I use this method when making the overflow filter's for reef aquariums.

You will want keep things as wet and cool as possible.  The best method I have found uses the assistance of some type of flexible mold-able material (think Play-doh or Plumber's Putty) to make a small pool over the intended cut mark.

First, make a torus and then press around the area you want to cut.

Second, fill and keep filled with cool water (might even use a couple ice cubes in your source water cup to drop the overall temp. (not to much as that temp change and could promote cracking it as well.)  10-20 degrees below room temp is perfect.

Third, drill normally and using caution to ensure the water stays near full in the mini-pool you made. (a bigger pool will give you more time before the water heats up and fails to do its job).

- Somewhat dangerous if using a A/C powered drill vs cordless.

I'm using pointed silicon carbide bits with my drill press, and a roll of clay to create a puddle of water.  I'm running at 3600rpm, pushing it slow as I can, spraying fresh water on, and lifting the bit every now and then so water can get back underneath.  Once the point has gone halfway through according to the ruler on the handle, I flip the glass over and go from the the other side.  The holes meet up ok, which means I have to keep the water up since it drips through the glass.  As far as I can tell, it's breaking at the transition between the sloped part of the bit and the straight.

I'm going to try a flat diamond crusted bit from Amazon instead.  I might give it a go first with a hand drill, but I don't want to run out of pieces big enough to practice on before trying the new borosilicate plate.

When I drill glass, I use diamond encrusted hole saws, which I purchased from China on eBay for cheap.  They might not get down as small as you need, but they worked wonderfully.

Kapton

My SD3 bed is warped about .008" from the edge to the middle (high in the middle) so I am going to remove the Kapton
and mount glass using a thermal compound so the glass gets better heat transfer.
attached is the high temp compound I am going to use.

I was getting some pretty good stick to the glass.  Maybe too good-

This was glass cut for me at a hardware store.  I also had some from a framing store which cost twice as much, but it was either better quality glass, or better cuts.  The edges of the hardware store glass seemed more prone to chipping or grinding when brushed against the edges of the case.

What thickness of glass are you using? I got a piece of 2.5mm and with that the I can't adjust the Z tab as the screw is not long enough to hit the the limit switch.

I saw danny post about the glass bed instead of aluminum and new heater wire.

Has anyone just tried using existing alu, bed and adding better heaters?