E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor (Page 1 of 6)

OK, you've convinced me... just ordered it.... that with the melt filter (hasn't shipped yet), I should be set for what I need to really print well.  now about that power supply....

Shucks! If you are thinking of buying an E3D from elmoret, might as well buy a filastruder too then save even more money on filament :-).

Hazer, the extent to which filament can have particulate clogs greater than your  nozzle orifice can't really be changed much by the extruder, I think. The e3d has a few things that help it not clog.

The nozzle-cone is short, so if a particulate is squishable it's more likely to squish through that than a longer diameter zone
The nozzle doesn't have natural clogging from heat creep up. The active cooling means there's point in the hot end where it's just [relatively] sharply cold, and so you don't get swelling and rub along the whole channel. 

These are pretty mediocre explanations, but I'm trying to say that I previously had *many* problems with low quality filament clogging. This nozzle can unclog more easily [hot temp and wire], and in practice hasn't clogged frequently (maybe twice, today for the second time since I have had the nozzle, in well over a hundred hours of printing.

But I do have one roll that I'm not counting in the clogging nozzle. It was some black PLA of rubbish quality that would clog nonstop-within moments. I can only assume this filament is full of particles greater than 0.4mm (my nozzle orifice.) It's impossible for any hot end with a fixed orifice size to deal with many particles greater than that orifice.   So no designing could get around that.

Congrats on the arrangement Tim!

They are verrrrry nice hotends.

And may I suggest to everyone now I've personally built up a solid collection of them - Buy the bowden versions even if you aren't going to go bowden short term. They are near identical to the 'non-bowden' versions, instead they include a threaded top section. They work fine as 'direct drive' hotends (aka, what the standard SD does) but allow you the option of switching to a bowden setup later. The 'ideal' kit would be a bowden version + 1 x 0.6mm nozzle, meaning you can switch the stock 0.4mm one out to the bigger nozzle for higher speed prints when fine surface detail isn't a primary concern. It also means if you buy two you can go dual hotend with 1x0.4 (for perimeters) and 1x0.6 (for high speed support/infil)

Anyway - I ramble enough. If you are stateside - take elmoret up on his offer NOW! In fact - Buy 2!

Yes, sorry - I figured this out after I posted - my apologies :S Don't let what I said above deter anyone reading and who might remotely pay attention to me - the standard ones are fantastic if all you ever will want to do is replace the standard hotend. You can even do bowden if you really want - but you just need to mount the pushfit or equivalent yourself external to the hotend - the dedicated bowden versions provider a much neater 'direct to the extruder' connection meaning all you need to do is grip it somehow

But worth getting bowdens and recommending them - its worth the little bit extra for the added flexibility (and they are very nice push-fit couplings as well!)

And as an extra suggestion - get the extra nozzles and again lean to the larger size rather than smaller size. The .25 is nice and blingy - but not worth it in terms of slow-downs vs actual quality improvement.

I have them, just haven't had time to list them. Let me know what you need.

Your page says the fan-housing is printed in ABS. I thought he printed them in PLA, is that correct that it's ABS for your batch? Thought I'd just check

He talks about automating PLA prints here:

http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,216570,228252

But says further down the ducts are ABS. I've just shot him an email to double check, but I'm pretty sure they're ABS.

I'm away from the office right now, but adrian said:

in his thread linked above.

you will need some small mods...

1. the hotend is longer, so you will need a longer m3 bolt to put into the Z limit switch to zero the bed height

2. I STRONGLY recommend ditching the acrylic extruder body that solidoodles ship with. I am not sure it would fit anyway. Print a Mk5 extruder before you do the swap  http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:111213

3. Solidoodle mounts the thermistor to the outside of the hot end, but the E3D has it inside the heater block. This means that the E3D will reflect a temperature closer to the actual melting point than the solidoodle hot end. The solidoodle hot end reads about 20 degrees lower than it really is. There is some safeguards in the Soldoodle controller board firmware to prevent you from heating up your hot end too much and melting the PEEK part of the heat break. Unfortunately it it set low enough to interfere with setting it at the temperatures you need to use with teh E3D, so you will need to recompile the firmware on the controller board with a higher safety temperature. http://www.soliwiki.com/Updating_Solidoodle_Firmware

Power supplies should be fine, although mine seems a little weak and I have already ordered a replacement. It tends to get pretty warm with everything cooking.

that might work too, but it would be harder to adjust... As long as it works...

Or print something like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:162400 (which I used to test a ceramic bed).