E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor (Page 3 of 6)

Tim,
Do you sell a spare heater block for the E3D?  I may have cross-threaded mine when putting the nozzle back in after a clog.  I'm still trying to get it back in, but I may have done more damage than I thought...

Doh!  how did I miss that!  Thanks, Tim.

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Coleke: They are just standard "boot lace Ferrules" - you should be able to find versions at a reputable auto store/hardware store - but their versions will have one side of the ferrule plastic insulated. The plastic however can be retained or easily snipped away. i.e, they look like this:

I've used the white colour coded ones (24awg? can't remember...)

You can get uninsulated ones under the same name, but they are sometimes trickier to source. You can however get them I know via  http://www.ferrulesdirect.com/ is a source as well if you are US based... ( and something like http://www.ferrulesdirect.com/terminal/ … /SK400.htm is handy to have around )

PSA:  When they say to heat up your hotend before doing the final tightening of the threads, do not get too eager and do it without heating it up first.  (Also do not tighten the connection between the heat sink and heat block this way.  That it what caused this deformation.)

Edit:  I'm in no way saying that this was bad design.  I'm simply saying not to be dumb like me and do a "bubba" tightening job on equipment like this!

You shouldn't have put any force on the heat break - you should be gripping the heat block with pliers and tightening the nozzle....

As my father once said "Finesse not Force"

Put a multimeter on it, resistance should be around 4 ohms.

What does it read when you touch the leads of the meter together?  It should be zero an there is an adjustment just below the base of the needle.  The meter needs to be zeroed out before you take a measurement and 4 ohms isn't a lot so read the scale and figure out what each line indicates.

OK, I think I have the zero figured out.  there's a dial on the side.  I adjusted it so that the meter reads at 0 exactly when I touch the leads.  I probe the leads and I get 0.

I'm pretty sure, she's dead, Jim...

Now that is something that I'm not sure about... but how to go about doing it?

I would assume that I have to test the posts to see what the voltage is (DC or AC?) and directly to the 12v posts which I would be a bit hesitant to do... would it be easier to just re-terminate the cable with a JST connectors and try again? 

I'm always hesitant when dealing with electronics that are plugged in.  I'm one of those guys that calls the electrician when the light bulb I replaced doesn't light up with any of the spares I have lying around.  Just wary about electricity, I guess.

No, it's not the thermistor.  I tested it pre- and post-kapton.  I was getting ambient temp and no stop message.  I turned on the heater and it just doesn't heat up.  I left it on for ~10 minutes and I put a finger near, then on to feel the heat... nada.

I tested the heater outside the block (sitting on the block actually as I don't want to mar the glass of the bed) and there was no change to the cartridge, so I'm pretty sure that it's either the wiring or the cartridge is dead.

Just got back from getting the kidlets from school, so I'm going to try to test the connector of the JST when the heat button is on just to see what kind of voltage I'm getting... hopefully I don't blow anything out...