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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → General Discussion → Got my new E3D All-Metal Hotend V4 - (Updated with Mounted Pics)
Got my e3d hot end a couple weeks ago. This thing is nothing short of AWESOME!
yes you will loose Z height, but you can easily print at WAY higher temps.
For me, this has means better layer adhesion, and the thing doesn't block up every 2mins like the solidoodle one did.
Update your firmware to make use of the new stuff. its SO worth it! NEVER buying a non all metal hot end again
Finally got time to put in the E3D hotend and it is fantastic! Great work Sanjay!
This is far superior to anything I have used made from PEEK.
*My only complaint is the holes not lining up on the fan duct.
Yup.. but I will make one observation.. its not working *as well* as a J-Head with grippy (such as Flex-PLA) or 'conductive' filaments with a high carbon content... I'm suspecting there is a tiny bit of "sticktion" maybe ? The J-Head with its PTFE barrel lining does a slightly more consistent and cleaner print with them... But Flex-PLA and Conductive-ABS are the only two filaments I've had anything less than a superior print with. Normal ABS at 215-235°C, and PC at 260-300°C.
I should revisit them - I might have just been having a bad week when I last tried them with the E3D... they worked fine, but I just didn't have as clean a print as using a J-Head derivative... But the E3D lives pretty much full-time on the printer these days...
And remember - watch those temps when working with ABS.. you're good to go to a higher temp with the hotend - but ABS outgasses nasty stuff at >260°C so do be careful! 
And remember - watch those temps when working with ABS.. you're good to go to a higher temp with the hotend - but ABS outgasses nasty stuff at >260°C so do be careful!
My biggest reason for getting this hotend was to push nylon above 250°C. There is no real reason to push ABS to higher temps unless you are going for very high speed printing.
2n2r5
Loving your tweaked duct, printed a few hundred so far, with much improved new printers and slicing settings. All looking very good!
adrian
Interesting observations on those odd filaments, I will have to get some to play with now!
Sanjay any update on the multi extruder?
nlancaster
Final designs going for manufacture on Monday. Will get a run of ten prototypes done for testing. Will post images of the CAD on Monday.
It's now got 4 nozzles, and the option for air cooling over water. It will probably be sold with the base model only supplied with 2 nozzles (but it will have the spaces for the extra 2 so you can retroactively upgrade), and air cooling on the base model.
Upgrade to 3 or four nozzles, and or to water cooling as optional extras.
It will essentially be bowden only, but could probably be hacked into using direct drive with some tiny little bowden tubes, like what RichRap did for his mixing extruder.
Sweet!
Coming here with some further praise for the e3d. That thermal junction is beautiful. I'm 10 hours into using the hot end, and I love it. I've even started using up some of my shittier ABS rolls that were previously ignored because their required print temp (~240c) was too close to 242C. So in a sense, this hot end pays for part of itself [that's 2Kg that I've recovered because that's how much rejected ABS I have lying in the [dry] furnace room.]
One request for Sanjay though: I don't think you include the thread information on the bowden pneumatic couplers. I gave up trying to find it on your website, so I ended up trying to size it based on my dye set. I guess wrong and ended up rethreading the plastic 
. Luckily, it worked out with enough mangled threads to hold itself in place.
Reason for needing the thread information:? I needed to thread into my old groove mount system so I could mount the coupler on the extruder side, so I needed to redrill and tap my PEEK groovemount. Ideally I'd print something that works without wasting the peek, but my PEEK was nearly dead [damaged threads] and my printer was not in functioning state.
For everyone else: Does anyone have some files for hoisting the e3d a little higher, so as less Z space is lost? I can't see any immediate pitfalls until maybe the aluminum piece gets too close to the carriage (at least 5-8mm can be recovered though). I just went through the e3d tagged items in thingiverse, and this thread, without much luck. I may have missed something though!
Again. Overjoyed with the e3d hot end. Much better than the original solidoodle hot end, and the qu-bd hot end (with or without the teflon mod, I've tried both). The trinity labs hot end (in 1.75mm version from thejollyreaper guy) I was going try as well, but for now I'm not going to mess with my e3d setup. I'll keep the trinity labs one for backup.
Edit: Also, has anyone cut down the included tube for the e3d bowden upgrade? It looks a good 6-12 inches longer than it needs be (I personally setup my feeding extruder to be in the center back of my solidoodle 2.
Tomek
It's a 1/8th BSPP thread! Sorry that's not available info.
As soon as the next batch arrives and is all sorted the documentation is going to be massively improved and refactored. But if I stop and do it now, it's going to delay people receiving stuff they have paid for - which I really can't do in good conscience.
The bowden should be as short as possible to reduce hysteresis of motion in the tube (lash). But not so short that it is pulled taught/bent kinked. The minimum bend radius should be around 75mm for a 1.75mm tube. Cut it down with an Xacto type knife, making sure the end is cut nice and square. Don't use scissors or wire cutters.
Glad you like the hotend!
Tomek
It's a 1/8th BSPP thread! Sorry that's not available info.
Thanks! AHA! That explains why it didn't work on the NTP US thread set I had....Well, I learned something new (the difference between these two non-metric standards.)
Tomek
The bowden should be as short as possible to reduce hysteresis of motion in the tube (lash). But not so short that it is pulled taught/bent kinked. The minimum bend radius should be around 75mm for a 1.75mm tube. Cut it down with an Xacto type knife, making sure the end is cut nice and square.
ok! I thought this made sense. I wanted to make sure there wasn't something special that I was missing. This is my first bowden setup; it's cool.
Tomek
Glad you like the hotend!
I really like it! Thanks! I wanted to add that I did have near disaster today. I didnt secure my thermister all that well (long story- but I took off the insulation that was originally securing it better.) So I had a runaway heater, and I know it got hot enough for the outgassing of the ABS and substantial white fumes before I shut off my printer.
But what I'm really here to say is that the heat did *not* creep very high, and I was able to flush out the nasty gunk after a few dozen mm of extrusions (I went on to dump a couple hundred mm for good measure.)
Compared to previous experiences with charred remains ruining a barrel, this is beautiful
2n2r5
Loving your tweaked duct, printed a few hundred so far, with much improved new printers and slicing settings. All looking very good!
I see how you printed "a few hundred" already. I like that setup you have. Someone just posted a "wipe" system on a solidoodle that is kinda like that except it did the whole bed but had to wait for it to cool before ejecting it. Glad the duct is working for you. I think everyone here has already switched to your hotend :-)
I think everyone here has already switched to your hotend :-)
+1
I have had mine in for almost two weeks now and it has not let me down yet. Printed nylon at 260 yesterday with no problems.
Dialed in my temps on the weekend. Stringing is massively reduced which was my number one defect so I'm cheffed. Just need to design an under carriage fan and I'm happy.
Just ordered mine... Can't wait!
Sanjay, was looking on the E3D website, and it wont let me download the 3d models.
Will the stock solidoodle nozzled thread on to this hotend?
Nevermind. I see the E3D threads in.
What is the cleaning procedure for an E3D? What if I get a clogged nozzle?
What is the cleaning procedure for an E3D? What if I get a clogged nozzle?
Cleaning procedure for a clog that won't resolve itself would be guitar wire.
Here's the absolutely brilliant thing: I can't seem to clog my e3d. I use remote desktop to access my solidoodle from afar, but the consequence is that if my connection dies or my home network drops, then I lose connection with my printer and in tern repetier stops sending info. Long story short, my nozzle sits at print temperature for the 4-8 hrs before I can get home.
This has happened three times already. My fix has been to turn the temperature to 200Celsius, start extruding junk. If i'm having problem, assist the filament gently with my hand as the extruder turns. After a couple 100mms of this, I turn up to 240 celsius, and dump whatever else I get out (another 100-200 mm), and a tiny bit that doesnt come out at 200 celsius seems to pop out. Then I go back to printing.
Having spent more than two weeks at one terrible time last year fixing my clogged nozzle problems this is heaven...
I would like to hear if Sanjay has any other experience with how to declog. I only print with ABS so far, and I'm sure there's a point at which the E3D also fails. But a combination of it's thermal ability and the short nozzle length (which also increases ooze unfortunately) make it verrryyy hard to clog.
I see my E3D is 5 hours away and being processed for delivery! Hopefully it will be here by the weekend!
I cant wait as both of my peaks are shot on my stock and spare hot ends. : ( I cant make it more than a few minutes on a print without my filament getting jammed and bending out after the extruder gear.
Will I be able to use an old M3 bolt from my spare acrylic jigsaw for the Z stop screw? Will that be long enough?
You may have difficulty using the old M3 screw. I had to add tape on two pieces of crap on the Z-switch so that it would reach the z-stop screw. But then I printed a little Z-stop screw elongation stop (somewhere on thingiverse probably tagged 'solidoodle').
Tomek. Can you get me some pics of you z-stop mods?
Haha, ok. When I get home I'll try to take a picture. But I literally used two sided sticky tape and a small cube chunk of plywood I had lying around, in order for the M3 screw to depress the switch sooner.
If you're having trouble for whatever reason,
I can also mail you a letter with a printed extended Z-stop if you want. I happen to have two lying around and a karma debt towards the solidoodle community. It'll just delay things a bit though, since the letter will take 2-3 days to arrive. I'm also assuming you are USA based
My E3D is at the post office!!! Hopefully I can pick it up!
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → General Discussion → Got my new E3D All-Metal Hotend V4 - (Updated with Mounted Pics)
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