[HOWTO] Convert Da Vinci Jr to RAMPS 1.4 (Page 7 of 11)

Both extruder heaters are controlled independently and like wise their thermistors are red independently. You need to make sure firmware is setup correctly and that the Host are setup as well.

Could someone point me in the right direction on something?  Everything seems to be working great so far except extrusion. Every time I try and print the extruder jams the filament in the throat of the nozzle.  I think it is trying to feed too much.

The tutorial mentions, "So other than possibly fine-tuning your extrusion steps you should be set to go."

Can someone point me to where these values are in the firmware?

Thanks!

*EDIT* - I think I found it.
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {80,80,2560,155}

Has anyone else had to adjust this? What are your values?

Could it be something in your slicer - what temperature and feed rate are you using?

I know in Slic3r, there are settings for both, and that there is a delicate balance of temperature and feed rate to get smooth and consistent prints.

Has anyone taken the time to write a Load Filament / Unload Filament macro for Marlin?
I have everything working on Marlin 1.1.1.
It would be nice to tweak the back-right corner just a bit.
I am using the full graphics display, what is everyone using to mount the smaller display?
I re-created the original display holder in Tinkercad (or close to it, not bad for eye-balling it), am hoping to hack the graphic display into it.

Also looking for STL files for Bed leveler housing, button holder, and bed leveler reset arm.
Anyone??

Lastly, how do I tweak the Z settings?  The end stop is a bit lower than the print bed.  (I am working on a second DV Jr.)

Thanks!

I finally finished converting, but my x axis will get stuck when the hot end is on it. When i take it off, it moves just fine. Do I need to adjust anything in my settings? Or is it a hardware problem?

The Marlin installation and use is the same for RAMPS1.4, it doesn't matter you use it for Da vinc 1.0 or mini/junior.
First you need to find the website for the manufacture of your RAMPS1.4 kits and download the most recent software/documentation. It usually contain the Arduino and Marlin that will work together.
U8glib need to be extract to Library folder under the Arduino folder become Arduino/Library/U8glib/. Make sure you don't extract it to Arduino/Library/U8glib/U8glib. Sometimes unzipping process automatically create more folder than you wanted.

follow the manufacture's instruction, you should be able to get Marlin uploaded, you can figure out how to adjust the setting later.

For Da vinci mini specific instructions, see:
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/16288/ho … -ramps-14/

E Steps Fine Tuning

Now, with everything very close to ideal values, we can finally dial E steps in that final little bit!
Find an object with flat tops on a number of levels, such as this cube stack test (scale this object by 250% after loading in Slic3r)
Slice at 95% rectilinear infill. Use the lowest layer height you're comfortable with - the lower the layer height used for this test, the finer your resulting E steps calibration will be. I use 0.2mm for first run, and if I'm feeling ambitious I'll repeat this process at 0.1mm.
Print.
Ignore the first 5-6 layers because they're too sensitive to the exact height of the first layer. If it's obviously over-filling or under-filling, alter E steps or Z=0 point and restart the print.
Observe infill. If you can't see tiny little gaps between the lines, reduce E steps by 0.5% every 2 layers until you can see tiny gaps.
Observe solid top layers. If you can see tiny gaps, increase E steps by 0.5% every 2 layers until there's no gaps in the top.
Send the new E steps to your printer with M92 Ennn without even pausing the print - you will see the result in a couple of layers when the change is this small.
Goto 5 until the infill has tiny gaps AND the solid top layers do not.
Now, your E steps value is extremely fine-tuned! Save this value in your firmware's configuration and flash to make permanent.

E= steps for the extruder is very easy. Just send a command to extrude 100mm of filament. The measure 100mm from the input of the extruder and mark it at 100mm on the filament. Then send the 100mm feed command again. If it is short, add steps. If it is long remove steps. There is a formula to calculate the setting based on desired steps and acquired amount used. But I am not sure where it is right now.

From Matter hackers

New Steps/mm = (Old/Current steps/mm) x [100 / (measured distance filament traveled)]
I measured 101.3mm on this Rostock max. My current steps/mm is 93.So, 93 x (100 / 101.3) = 91.80

You need temperature sensor and hotend connected for heating to work, make sure fan is also connected for safty of your hotend.

Recommend better RAMPS board choice

http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Arduino-Ramp … SwAPVZG2at

This one come with end stop, for $30, most of my problem comes form making cable for the end stop, this make things a lot easier. Also the design of LCD allows you to mount the display in the front to replace the orginal da vinci display after print out modified version of the orginal LCD mounting frame. my LCD is too tall to fit.

Better option is
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MKS-Gen-L-3D-Pr … Swax5YyaAs

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAMPS-1-4-3D-PR … SwDuJWzTT0

With this set you don't need to make cable, and you can put the board inside the machine, my kit is too thick to fit in.

How is it failing? Giving you an error? Not heating? You need to give us more info than just failing.