101

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

"Just wire it in parallel with the existing extruder fan". I'll need to look for instructions for this, I assume it's like something found here http://www.soliforum.com/topic/204/fan-installation/

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

102

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

LdyMox wrote:

AZERATE, How many of those connectors would I need?

You would need 4. But the packs you can pick up at Home Depot have 5m/5f....but it wouldn't hurt to have a few extra lying around smile

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

103

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

Thanks. AZERATE, you said you were new at it too. Did you have a Solidoodle, how did you set up the hotend fan?

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

104

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

I have taken the plunge and ordered the All-metal E3D (v5) Hotend E3D Direct Feed - 1.75mm. Hazzah! Now to wait for it to arrive and try to figure out how to install it.

I guess for now I need to find a longer m3 screw (as I would rather not put it in upside down), and those suggested wire connectors. I am already using the MK5 so that is good.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

105

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

LdyMox,
Just a little FYI... Instead of splicing into the extruder fan, what I've done is put connectors on both fans and the power line.  Then I created a Y-cable with matching connectors so that I can replace either fan by just adding the appropriate male/female connector to the new fan and plugging it in.

Just a convenience... smile

106

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

I don't know how to make a y cable myself but maybe I can buy one. If I looked around, what term should I use for the wire that connects the fan? Maybe I could buy a Y splitter and solve the hot end fan needing power easy.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

107

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

Do you think something like this would work to split the fan power?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30cm-12V-PC-Fan … 1303494671

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

108

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

LdyMox wrote:

Do you think something like this would work to split the fan power?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30cm-12V-PC-Fan … 1303494671

Your still going to have to connect to the wires on the fans somehow.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

109 (edited by LdyMox 2014-05-15 15:22:53)

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

I am good with computers but not wiring and such. What is the easiest way to do this then? Maybe I'll see the problem more once it get's here and I start trying to get it done. Plus today got called in way early to work because of server problems so my brain is not at it's best (hazzah it's better now). hehe

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

110

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

Unless there's a specific for the connector (which I doubt) you'll need to make one.  It's pretty simple.  You use 20-24 gauge wire.  You'll probably be able to find red and black, but any 2 colors will do.  You'll need 4 pieces about the same length and you'll just wire the connectors up like this:

http://www.kenzden.com/download/Y-cable.jpg

This allows the power to split and since the fans don't require polarity to run, they should be fine.

111

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

Clearly I'm a little giddy from lack of sleep LOL

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

112

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

Ok clearly those red and black lines are the 20 to 24 gauge wire. But what do the boxes represent? Does the little box represent a fan connection?

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

113 (edited by LdyMox 2014-05-15 16:45:58)

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

I am sure most people know this but for the other confused folk the Solidoodle Wiki has a e3D section http://www.soliwiki.com/E3D_extruder on the basic steps plus the very good general instructions for the E3D itself at http://e3d-online.com/Documentation

I think the biggest obstacle for me will be getting that fan hooked up as I don't have much experience splicing into wires, but I’m bright enough to get it done with a little guidance.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

114

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

The boxes represent the connectors.  You can use Molex, JST, or any 2-wire connectors.

115

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

Ok, I get it I think. So I could get basically get/make a 1 input Molex connector that y splits out to two connections.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

116 (edited by AZERATE 2014-05-15 17:02:00)

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

LdyMox wrote:

I am good with computers but not wiring and such. What is the easiest way to do this then? Maybe I'll see the problem more once it get's here and I start trying to get it done. Plus today got called in way early to work because of server problems so my brain is not at it's best (hazzah it's better now). hehe

I'm fairly certain your electrical/soldering skills are superior to mine. I blind epileptic panda with one arm has better electrical skills than me big_smile

As far as the fans go, I bought one of these (http://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-24 … 0+5.0-2000) then got a 4 pin molex to 3 pin adapter, and a three pin splitter. Now I run 5 fans off their own power supply with zero soldering or splicing involved.

And congratulations on getting the E3D. Once it is all set up, you will wonder why you didn't grab it sooner smile

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

117 (edited by LdyMox 2014-05-16 12:25:26)

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

Thanks for all the answers. I think once my e3D hot end get's here I'll have more questions. Plus I have located a friend with more electrical experence should I need it smile

AZERATE, that is a great idea and does not risk my damaging my precious Solidoodle. smile

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

118

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

How much longer is the E3D then the standard hotend? It seems my current M3 bolt is about 16mm but the longest m3 bolt I could find at the home dept was 20mm. I have the glass bed already but it dosen't take the length to the max.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

119 (edited by LdyMox 2014-05-19 13:56:19)

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

Ah wait. I found it in another thread. a 16mm difference. Hmmm so I don't think the extra 4mm won't cut it of the m3 screw I found. I know I can flip it but seems a pain to adjust it. Is there is inch equivilient to the M3 screw? There were much more options of the non metic type at home depot.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

120

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

It seems there is a Mcmaster Carr in Buffalo. Check out what they have there...when I fail to find all the fixins from Home Depot or Ace, Mcmaster Carr will have it.

Just make sure you get the hex socket M3...I used a phillips for about 2 days and ran back to the hex. Another option is to just print an extended z tab (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:135575). Once this is printed, if the side starts to crack or split where the vertical M3 is, let me know...I modified the design just a hair to strengthen it

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

121 (edited by LdyMox 2014-05-19 18:39:12)

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

Thanks, No McMaster-Carr near me that I can find, but I can probbaly MacGyer something in the meantime while I order something online or print the thing you linked. I even asked at work since they do some various computer and industrial works with no luck with a length greater then the 20mm one I found at home depot.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

122

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

http://www.amazon.com/Machine-Finish-Ph … screw+30mm

123

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

LdyMox wrote:

No McMaster-Carr near me that I can find

1122 Military rd Buffalo, NY  14217
(716)875-8093

But MacGyver skills trump all smile

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

124 (edited by LdyMox 2014-05-20 00:01:29)

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

Ok ran through those little metal tubes in an attempt to set up the new thermostat with no luck in the last 3 hours. Someone said I could use the old one from the stock SD2 hotend, but I don't see how. The hole is too small to fit the SD2 thermometer inside the block.

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=5333&download=0

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Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

125 (edited by LdyMox 2014-05-20 00:18:39)

Re: E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor

maybe i'm just a lil confused but the instructions heater block looks a lil different then mine. For example all the instructions show a side of the heater block with a large hole and 2 smaller holes but mine has no side like this. At best a large hole and one small hole.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA