E3D All-Metal Hotends - US Distributor (Page 4 of 6)

Now with free Haribo candy with every hot end purchase!

Oh shibby! Did my order get some before it shipped?

This is a crowd funding thing that I'm running: http://www.gofundme.com/bvi140 It's for pretty selfish reasons

Isn't it nice to not have to worry about your hot end any more   Makes you wonder how you got by before.

I haven't made that mistake yet.  But, I have been known to leave it on at 250 for extended periods of time with ABS.  I have never had a problem and even if I had it only takes a second to pull the nozzle off.  I did plug one up with some very old and dirty filament that was full of moisture.  It took less than 5 minutes to pull the nozzle off and clear things up.  You can't do that with a stock hot end.

LOL

I see what you  mean That's hilarious!!! now everybodys looking at me wondering just what is so funny.

Is there some sort of step by step guide to installing the E3D on a Solidoodle (2 with the heated bed)? How to put together? I am considering a E3D but I have no idea how I would install it.

I already noticed:

- I would need a longer m3 bolt, that isn't too bad.
- I already got rid of that awful jigsaw after the second time I needed to clear a clog. I assume I would need to find a download a new on to hold the hot end.
- I would have to up my temperatures by about 20 degrees.

Yup, in the wiki. Also you don't need a longer M3, you can flip the one you have.

Whats the difference between the bowden and other version?

Thanks,

Does this hot end give better quality prints then the stock hot end?

Does it do any better with flexible filament such as Flexible PLA?

Do the Solidoodle brass nozzles fit on it? I have the stock .4 but also a lil bit bigger one for Laywood.

I can see the benefit of having an all metal hot end mainly because I had 3 clogs with the stock hot end last night and the plastic PEEK made it MUCH harder to clean it out. In the end I had to drill out the stuck filament.

Thanks.

Ok, I see it comes with a default .25mm nozzle, while my stock SD2 comes with a .4mm nozzle. How will this change my Slic3r settings(besides the temp change)? I normally print in PLA 1.5mm or 2.0mm. From the other responses in this thread it sounds like you have to print slower with a smaller nozzle. Can someone explain?

My stock one has been jamming up and I'm considering getting a new one, and if I am getting a new one for the second time; I am thinking the e3D maybe the way to go.

Also is there any soldering involved with the install? Or is is nothing worst then having to assemble the parts?

I found these connectors (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Electro … /202527175) to be the easiest. They are cheap, easy to find, very simple to toss on, and great for the potential desire to change wires and whatnot. The stock SD connectors are a pain. These are perfect connectors if you are still getting familiar with 3D printing like myself.

And to back Tim up on a few points:
-ABS and PLA prints are far better with the E3D. My PLA results are drasticly better.
-I print .2mm 98% of the time, the other 2% is .1mm and everything runs well.
-I believe Laywoo needs a .6mm nozzle. But correct me if I am wrong on that.

You have to try pretty hard for some time to clog your E3D. I had 5 clogs a week and 2 in one day with my stock SD hotend, finally took wardjr's advice and it stood up to the possitive reviews. I had ONE clog on my E3D....but that was entirely due to operator error

AZERATE, How many of those connectors would I need?