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Topic: RMA'd printers - end result

Hi There.

So there were a lot of bad press' that got released ( mine included) and solidoodle are stating that they can be RMA and will be sent an " upgraded" press.

Anyone got experience with a RMA'd printer? are you getting the out of the box printing you were promised?

SD2 - mirror bed - e3d v6 - extruder cooling fan - no enclosure.

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Re: RMA'd printers - end result

Yes, I'm having an exceptional experience with a RMA'ed printer....  "plug and play"

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/10800/ro … ess-vs-me/

Since I posted that, I've run through about 2kg of filament, probably close to 100 hours of print time, so I've probably got almost 200 hours of actual print time on my new unit.   I still have seen ZERO clogs, ZERO broken wires, no goofiness of any kind.

About the only issues I've seen:
1.  Adhesion:   I'm currently using an ABS/acetone slurry.  That seems to work best with the filament I'm using now (purple), but for some reason, with the white filament, a simple glue stick seems to work best.   Sometimes my biggest issue is getting the part off the bed when it's done without destroying it.   I'm still new, so I'm experimenting with concentrations of ABS/acetone in my slurry.

2.  Soliprint:   When I upgraded to 1.2.0 and for some reason, all the extrusions are wavy.... not moire, but truly wavy.   I have no idea why this happened, but the problem went away when I switched back to 1.1.4.

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Re: RMA'd printers - end result

As one of the people who spent a good chunk of time in California fixing hundreds of Presses, it's really nice to hear that you're getting good results. Thanks for sharing.

Former Solidoodle employee

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Re: RMA'd printers - end result

What were the fixes?

And when will parts be available for the press on the SD page? (My polycarbonate is cracking)

SD Press - v1 (Pre-order) / RAMPs /w DRV8825's / Cyclops (25w) / Dual Bowden / Mk8 Gear / MK2b PCB Heat bed /w custom replacement Z / PEI Bed
SD2 / E3D v6 / Direct Drive / Mk8 Gear / RAMBo v1.3 / PEI Bed / Anti Z backlash mod / Ikea Expedite enclosure.
Both Driven by Octoprint (devel) via a RPi B+ / Neopixel status alerts / GPIO Controlled SSR / (SD2) 450 Watt PSU for remote power-up/shutdown.

5 (edited by soliryan 2015-05-19 15:07:20)

Re: RMA'd printers - end result

Spring to prevent cables from falling and preventing Y homing
Ziptie for strain relief on the E motor
Check extruder fan direction
Add screws in the bottom of the platform
Check for good bed movement
Set trimpots
Set Z offset

I'm not sure about spare parts, we're working on it.

Former Solidoodle employee

6 (edited by mrallinwonder 2015-05-19 20:51:14)

Re: RMA'd printers - end result

I did everything except the trim pots, can't find a picture that shows exactly where to measure voltage.
3 more things really helped:
Monokote plus hairspray on the bed, now everything sticks.
1/2" Fiberglass insulation from a ceiling tile under the bed, now it hits 100C, and quickly
Auto wheel bearing high pressure lithium grease on the z rods, and put soft turntable mounts under the feet. Now there is no bed shaking as the bed goes up and down.

Now it prints just fine with all these very low cost fixes. Thanx to the forum and solidoodle input!

7 (edited by soliryan 2015-05-19 20:58:18)

Re: RMA'd printers - end result

mrallinwonder wrote:

I did everything except the trim pots, can't find a picture that shows exactly where to measure voltage.

The trimpots have 3 legs on them, 2 on one side and 1 on the other. Measure the leg on it's own side across to ground (I usually use the shield of the power input jack).

Former Solidoodle employee

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Re: RMA'd printers - end result

Ryan, I have seen mixed documentation on what to set the voltage for Z. Can you confirm if it is 1.0v or 1.5v? Thanks.

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Re: RMA'd printers - end result

We had recommended 1.0V before but have since updated to now recommend 1.5V. If you really want to go the extra mile you can tune it by ear by moving your bed very slowly and listening to the motor as you adjust the trimpot. There are many factors that affect the ideal value for each printer. You're looking for a nice even flat noise with no fluctuations/hums/ringing.

Former Solidoodle employee