E3Dv6 on Solidoodle Press (Page 17 of 21)

Staging up for the next mod/upgrade.

I must say, Even thou I knew what the dimensions were for the Cyclops- But 'in-person', Man its small.

I have two big print jobs to run before I can slap this puppy on.

Couple of FYI's. Obviously I can't use the stock controller to do this. I was attempting to use it. But I ran into so many issues with the board I gave up on it. It was simpler to replace the board, And mod the Press FW to run on it. The board is a 'clone' RUMBA loaded with DRV8825's with E0/E1 set @ 1/32. To replicate the button on the top and the LEDs, I've tag teamed a Arduino Nano with the job of controlling a ring of W2811s in place of the stock ring and to control a large FET to main power (as in the 24V not mains (aka 115/240V) I've also reuse some of the functions in the press FW to home, pause and stop a job via the button. The one other thing I've added is a flame sensor and a smoke sensor which is also connected to the Nano. So if it detects anything it can kill power. The one other thing i've added was a color temp to visualize via the LEDs. So Blue to Red to slow pulsing green. This was done with reusing some of the BlinkM code in Marlin and the some of the code already in the Press FW.

I know I've skipped around a bit. (i.e replacement Z mount, which I am going to still do) But a friend was selling his Cyclops and I had to jump on that.

As usual- I'll post pictures and video and upload the STLs to my github account once I get everything up and working.

I finally completed the upgrade to my E3D Lite6. All I can say is "WOW"! Print quality is astonishing! Vertical walls are so smooth! None of the little ridges I was getting with the stock one. I love this. Was a real process to do the upgrade, but so worth it. Not sure how a bit of metal with a hole in it can make such a difference, but this thing is incredible.

I'm pretty sure the Press uses 24v throughout, check the label on the E3D's fan - it should be 24v.

That's interesting, I don't know why they would do that. 24v fan are cheaper than 12v regulators.

I guess that header could be 50% PWM'ed in software.

I just got an MK8 drive wheel for a bit more drive force. I looked around for the ninjaflex friendly bowden drive components, but couldn't find them. Any advice on where to look?

It is only producing half of the output. If you're experiencing jams, that's the cause.

I planning on hopefully getting to be able to print polycarb, so I definitely need the extra cooling

Everything works great! except my extruder runs backwards,can i just flip the polarity or is that a firmware thing that i need to change?

Do I need to flip all 4 wires? or just the positive and ground?

^That.
If the plug doesn't fit because of two tabs, use a razor to trim them off.  Alternately you can pull the connectors from the plug by lifting the little plastic tabs out of the way or pushing the little metal tabs in while pulling on the wire.  Then just reverse the order.  I prefer cutting the tabs off.

I got it to run backwards, but now it seems all of my steppers are fried or broken or something; so i made a new thread for it here http://www.soliforum.com/topic/11480/br … r-stepper/