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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Press → E3Dv6 on Solidoodle Press
How much does the E3DV6 improve compared to the stock?
After a long time, I now have a okay result with my prints, but still not a good quality when it's some detailed prints. Im still new with a 3Dprinter so is it difficult to change to a E3Dv6?
Although I haven't done it, the mechanical aspect of doing the upgrade is fairly straight forward, all the hard work has been done, thanks to MacGyver. The only thing that is stopping me is the firmware flash, but that depends on your experience I guess.
I suggested reading through this entire thread and make a judgement, I'm waiting till I know more.
Anyone figure out how to update the firmware in Windows 7 without a programmer?
Anyone figure out how to update the firmware in Windows 7 without a programmer?
Any updates to this? I
just got all parts installed and now I'm stuck at uploading firmware.
No one that I know of has done it without a programmer.
I'm printing with the E3d v6 without the firmware update, and it's working fairly good. Is the firmware update really necessary?
So.. You have the E3D hotend and supplied thermistor and the STOCK firmware is reading everything okay?
I'm printing with the E3d v6 without the firmware update, and it's working fairly good. Is the firmware update really necessary?
How would you properly assemble an E3d without the firmware change allowing you to heat up to 285?
I'm printing with the E3d v6 without the firmware update, and it's working fairly good. Is the firmware update really necessary?
Yes, 100%.
Yes supplied thermister and stock firmware, and the E3d v6, no proplems. I haven't tried heating it up to 285 yet, but the temps are accurate as far as I can tell. I guess I'll have to update the firmware anyway.
That'll only work for a while and when it stops you'll be replacing the whole thing. The melted plastic can and will leak in between the nozzle and the Heat break. You should have read the assembly instructions.
I did read the assembly instructions but didn't see how the firmware update was necessary, my bad I guess. I'll take the extruder apart and see if everything is ok then update the firmware.
Huh. I am going to swap out the thermistor with the stock one and test. Pretty sure after I did the FW update it was reading in the upper 400~500C.
But as elmoret said, It's required to make the change.
That'll only work for a while and when it stops you'll be replacing the whole thing. The melted plastic can and will leak in between the nozzle and the Heat break. You should have read the assembly instructions.
Had this happen... You don't want to clean up that mess. It kinda welds itself together with the plastic for double the fun when it occurs, too.
So I swapped thermistors (E3D to Stock) and when I connect to the printer I get a MAXTEMP warning with the usual M999 message.
Did you change the thermistor #?
jagowilson, Sorry clarification.
I did stock config (thermistor 1) with the E3D Supplied thermistor. Gave me a MAXTEMP warning. Just for giggles I did thermistor 5 with the stock thermistor and I can't even connect to it. (That maybe another issue). But then flashing back my backed up FW with the E3D supplied thermistor everything works as it should.
So I took the extruder apart and it seems good. There some slag in the end of the heat break but I came apart easily. Now to figure out that firmware.
Anyone figure out how to update the firmware in Windows 7 without a programmer?
The boot jumper is JP3, and then just quickly short the reset and ground pins on the ICSP header to simulate a reset button press.
So I am ready to bite the bullet and do this upgrade. I also read there is a 25w and 40w heater, but when I got to the website I do not see a choice to decide which heater to use. How did you guys go about ordering the 25w? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Don
I am sure if you ask elmoret he'd be happy to explain how to go about ensuring you get what you want.
The default cart. for the 24V is the 25W if you want the 40W. After you place your order, use the 'contact us' link. In the Subject line I placed the order number and then asked for the 40W
The default cart. for the 24V is the 25W if you want the 40W. After you place your order, use the 'contact us' link. In the Subject line I placed the order number and then asked for the 40W
Thank you for your replies. I was going to just use the 25w, as it seems that you had no issues using it.
Hello guys,
I am having a horrible time trying to get my board flashed. I have flashed many of my FC boards and never had issues. I have went thru this forum back and forth, downloaded multiple different flash programs, and no matter what I do I can not get any of the programs to recognize any of my usbasp's. I have one program that I can get to work its called extremeburner, and I can even read and write to it but it only shows at90usb1268 not 1286. The stock firmware I can upload to it on that setting and it works. I try to upload the press modified firmware and it finishes it but fails the verification. reupload stock firmware and back to working. I would love to use the flip software but no matter what drivers I use it will not recognize my usbasp on USB. A week later and I am still in the same position, and I have no idea how to get that usbasp to connect. If any of you have any ideas I am all ears. At this point I am willing to pay someone that has successfully changed to the new firmware to do this for me.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Don
MacGyverX,
Do you have a listing of the specific changes you made to support the E3D? I just getting ready to order an E3D lite, and was just going to modify my existing customized firmware.... (I know I could just do a diff on the source files, but thought I'd check to see if you had any notes handy.
Thanks!
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Press → E3Dv6 on Solidoodle Press
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