RUMBA board- how to do complete setup, including firmware and wiring? (Page 5 of 10)

soldering is your friend
Take your time, heat the thing to be soldered, not the solder itself.  A small dab of solder on your iron can help transfer the heat and can tell you when your wire is ready to take more solder.

+1 on running separate wires all the way from the power supply to the heater power and board power connections.

(For reference I'm also dubious about this bridging the terminals thing - I think they're internally connected in most power supplies...)

1m of 18G wire has a resistance of 0.02 ohm or thereabouts: at 10A that will drop 0.2V and heat up 2W.
Keep runs short, and make sure the terminations are really solid (this is where problems normally occur).
Duplicate the runs if you feel you need to but don't do that at the expense of a good connection at one or both ends.

+1 and would like to clarify that on this particular PSU the three banks are not internally bridged.
I ran one continuos wire utilizing some creative stripping of the wire and looping over (in front of) each screw.

Slow down...way down.
Lets walk through this step by step because it looks like your making it harder than it has to be.
If you need to be jumping wires you want to be doing it at the PSU side.  Just run a separate set of wires from your PSU to the HB PWR.  If you don't have enough wire laying around to do that go get some.  PM me or text me if you have questions.

Ok. I've got the PSU jumpered for some time...I was confused on the actual wiring of the board.
So since I DON'T jumper the board, onto my next question:

Endstops. As I am about to splice into old lines where I cannot use the stock SD connectors, I quickly noticed the stock wires for the endstops only have two wires, whereas the Rumba wires labeled ENDSTOP has Three wires coming from it.

*confused*

This picture

+1
This is the way to go.  I also turned off the unused endstops in the firmware.  I'll put up a picture or two tonight if it still looks like they may clear some things up.  I've left the printer alone for the last two days after the marathon this past weekend.

I can get you a photo but it'll have to wait till morning.

The reprap wiki was correct for me.  Just use trial and error to figure out which fan port is G-code controlled and which is always on (well, anytime the printer is running.)  I'm not surprised you will have to extend some wires.  Solidoodle makes them just barely long enough to reach to stock board.

Sorry about that I think this is what your looking for.
I am not real good at editing pictures but if you look close it's all there.

Thought I'd check in and see how you're doing with your setup.  Mine has stalled until I get more parts but it is printing pretty great with the current settings.  In going to try to do the zwobble laser calibration on Monday or Tuesday since the premade gcode calibration parts aren't getting along with my other settings/arrangements.

My bed heater is probably retarded by the bad wiring so I'll update when that gets sorted.

New dilemma. Got everything wired up and noticed a couple things:
*Fan for E Nema is not coming on no matter how or where I plug it in.
*Connected to RH, and Log does not display firmware info like it did after the update.
*Everything but the lights are unresponsive.

Seems as though it was never flashed. RUMBA amnesia?

UPDATE: fan still is not working. I changed the COM port and now it does work...kinda. Adjusted the VREFs after flipping the motor connectors. Now the motors work and turn in the right direction, but after I home each axis, noises come about until I turn the printer off. Nothing has been printed yet.