RUMBA board- how to do complete setup, including firmware and wiring? (Page 2 of 10)

Yep, in the mean time you can hook those direct to your power input for the board.  I will figure out what we are missing eventually.

So a couple of differences from what I had before.
I made this change from -1 to 8  (You were right in previous post) 
If I understand this correctly pin 7 and 8 are the same?

The G-code fan now fails to shut off after 60 seconds if I kill the print so that is my next thing to figure out.
EDIT:  Actually it does shut off I must have clicked on it in R-H some where along the line but if a print finishes normally it shuts off.  It could be that I killed that job and then it doesn't shut off.  Either way it all works so let me know if you have any questions.

//This is for controlling a fan to cool down the stepper drivers
//it will turn on when any driver is enabled
//and turn off after the set amount of seconds from last driver being disabled again
#define CONTROLLERFAN_PIN 8 //Pin used for the fan to cool controller (-1 to disable)
#define CONTROLLERFAN_SECS 60 //How many seconds, after all motors were disabled, the fan should run
#define CONTROLLERFAN_SPEED 255  // == full speed

// When first starting the main fan, run it at full speed for the
// given number of milliseconds.  This gets the fan spinning reliably
// before setting a PWM value. (Does not work with software PWM for fan on Sanguinololu)
//#define FAN_KICKSTART_TIME 100

// Extruder cooling fans
// Configure fan pin outputs to automatically turn on/off when the associated
// extruder temperature is above/below EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE.
// Multiple extruders can be assigned to the same pin in which case
// the fan will turn on when any selected extruder is above the threshold.
#define EXTRUDER_0_AUTO_FAN_PIN   -1
#define EXTRUDER_1_AUTO_FAN_PIN   -1
#define EXTRUDER_2_AUTO_FAN_PIN   -1
#define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE 50
#define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_SPEED   255  // == full speed

How did you end up with your end stops?  Remember that mirror image statement you made?

I can say this I re-flashed with the exact same firmware as you today and everything works fine so no firmware change needed other than you have to select SD2 instead of three in configuration.h I bet that's why it's off.  So long as your there might as well make the change for fans and re-flash it then you should be good.

What about your R-H printer settings do you maybe have SD3 selected?

If you home x and y how many mm's is showing for each axis?  150 it's set at Sd2 200 means Sd3 if that is showing 150 than you have something else wrong.

I hear that... Work always gets in the way of the fun stuff On the manual control screen in R-H for each axis there is a position indicator on the screen that displays in mm's the distance from home.  With an SD2 it starts at 150 and then for each mm of movement it decreases down to zero.  For an SD3 it starts at 200 actually I think it's more like 159 and 209 but you get the idea.

Huh... checked repetier after homing all axis and my Ymax (home) is 150 and Xmax is 159, just like it should be for an SD2.  But it is still printing in the wrong spot, prints shifted about 2 inches towards the back right.  I'm stumped!

Center is defined as x=75, y= 75.  That is in slic3r under printer settings tab , although I think its somewhat strange that it is not in repetier.  What is relative E distances?  I have it unchecked, although I never paid attention to it before.

End stops are connect to X+ and Y+ and homing towards max.  Z is into Z- and homing towards Z min.  So I think it is just like yours and the same as stock.

With all the settings, there has got to be some way to fool the printer into getting the bed right even if I can't make it "really" right.  I might start experimenting with moving the end stops over to X- and Y-, telling it to home towards min and seeing what happens.  Although that would probably just mirror my print.  So I'm still stuck...

I seem to have found a work around for now.  The bed left and bed front fields under printer settings will take negative values, so I took a guess and set them each to -40 and printed a 20mm calibration cube.  Doing a little math we can see that the edges of the cube should be 65mm from the edge of the bed.  After printing, I took out the calipers and measured the actual distance that I was getting.  Doing a little more math, I found that setting both of those fields to -57 results in the cube printing in damn near the middle of the bed (I centered the print). 

So I have my print bed back for now!  It will bother me until I get it fixed, but it works with these offsets.  I might try and get a version of repetier that was not downloaded from solidoodle up and running eventually.

I think I can finally consider this project substantially complete, but there might be some more tuning and such of the drivers that I can do as I go!

I actually have a pretty good start on it as a word document, but it only goes up to the wiring so far.  I need to add steps for initial power on and making sure everything spins the right way and that it sees the bed and end stops correctly.  PMing you. I haven't gotten to taking pictures yet.  Did you print a case for it before you got started?  This guy over at thingiverse made a pretty nice one and took some of my suggestions, so I have a nice case around mine now.  I'll post a pic when I get home tonight.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:349015

Mine did.