RUMBA board- how to do complete setup, including firmware and wiring? (Page 4 of 10)

Glad to hear you got it sorted Azerate. Sorry I been so busy.

the Mins should cut it...

Here is the hairball wiring that I was fearing last night.  This is my first fully connected power-up.  On to check settings!  (first remembering to double E steps)

That's weird - it shows up on the post for me.  You could see my others, right?  They're all linked over from imgur.  I'll try to figure it out momentarily.

I think I know why Ward's picture showed all of the endstop pins on the rumba board occupied - when I run M119, it shows "triggered" for the ones that don't have any connection.  I guess this is from the normally closed switches.  I now need to rummage around and find a few female-female jumpers in my disorganized arduino junk.

Thanks - doing that now.  Can't find the f-f jumpers.

Related question - my arduino IDE doesn't seem to show all of the related marlin files.  Does anyone else have this issue?  Example: pins.h doesn't show up when I open marlin.ino  - strangely, opening pins.h opens just like I opened marlin.ino AND I still can't see pins.h.....?  Editing in notepad++ for now.

I think you plugged the connectors in backward

Now I'm getting a problem when I try to autotune my bed - it seems to timeout:

EDIT - this seems to be a known problem where I should have preheated the bed first to within about 10 degrees of the setpoint.  I'll try again later - getting tired of post-bombing this thread.

Unfortunately I think splicing is the only real long-term solution for the conversion.  I had also ordered some of the "pro" wires from RRD which have connectors on both ends and was able to make those work by cutting up some break-away-headers into the requisite lengths to act as connectors between the old wiring and the new - basically made my own f-f adapters.  I looked but can't find the pro wiring on the site anymore.

Break away headers:
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12693

Wanted to share that my bed heat up time has gone from 40+ minutes to about 15 with the rumba and new 360W power supply.  Also, I was excited to be able to run the bed PID tuning but apparently I don't need to.  The default parameters in the firmware are nearly perfect as you can see in the bottom picture below.

Bed with old 120W and Sanguinololu 1.3a and also unable to tune bed:

Bed with new 360W and RUMBA and Default bed PID in fresh firmware:

Next up - actually try to print something!

Really, your bed warm up time should be even quicker than 15 minutes with a RUMBA and a 360 watt supply.  I have the same setup and it takes mine about 3- 5 minutes.  Do you have two ports on your power supply jumpered together and run to the heat bed input?  Do you have a thicker wire from your RUMBA to the bed heaters?  22 gauge is too small here, I used 16.

I jumped my terminals yesterday and used some left over wire from my E3D (line for the heater). I think that is 18g? Either way, I tested the voltage and it reads a steady 13.55v across all terminals...of course that is without any motors or heaters hooked up.