You are not logged in. Please login or register.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filastruder → FilaWinder Documentation
Do you mean if the filament moves above the sensor the spool starts to turn? Sometimes it does that. Try the calibration again and be certain you don't make a shadow with your arm as you move the filament during calibration.
Do I need to delete the calibration somehow or how can I make it new again?
avrdude: stk500_initialize(): (a) protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x42
avrdude: initialization failed, rc=-1
Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override
this check.
avrdude: stk500_disable(): protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x51
processing.app.debug.RunnerException
at cc.arduino.packages.uploaders.SerialUploader.uploadUsingPreferences(SerialUploader.java:129)
at processing.app.Sketch.upload(Sketch.java:1672)
at processing.app.Sketch.exportApplet(Sketch.java:1578)
at processing.app.Sketch.exportApplet(Sketch.java:1550)
at processing.app.Editor$DefaultExportHandler.run(Editor.java:2399)
at java.lang.Thread.run(Unknown Source)
Caused by: processing.app.debug.RunnerException: Probleme beim Hochladen auf das Board. Hilfestellung dazu unter http://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/Troubleshooting#upload .
at cc.arduino.packages.Uploader.executeUploadCommand(Uploader.java:113)
at cc.arduino.packages.uploaders.SerialUploader.uploadUsingPreferences(SerialUploader.java:127)
... 5 more
Whats wrong?
hi ian
does the FilaWinder_v10a.zip is for 1.75mm or 3mm filament,please?
The Hall sensor should show 1 in the serial monitor until the magnet passes, right? My is showing 0 all the time. I know the Hall Sensor works because I tested it on a breadboard. Any tips on what to check? I have gone through everything I can think of.
Brian
hi ian
does the FilaWinder_v10a.zip is for 1.75mm or 3mm filament,please?
Reading the first post where v10a is posted it also seems to be a version which is adjusted by jumper. ( http://www.soliforum.com/topic/5088/fil … mentation/)
Craig
I finaly got back to test the winder. The potentiometer has a bad rivet. I popped it open and confirmed there is no continuity between the pin and the board. Could you tell me the value on the pot so I can pick up a new one?
It was causing erratic behavior. Could this possibly be what may be causing some of the other issues here? Maybe a bad run of pots?
It's a 20k pot, but the resistance isn't that critical. Anything 10k-50k should be fine. I have noticed erratic behavior from the servo if you use the pot without the knob, and touch the metal with your bare hand. I think most of the odd behavior is due to capacitance in the buttons, which would get discharged if I tried to test it with my meter.
I tested the next batch of Arduinos in my winder rather than the testing jig, and found that if there was some odd behavior, pulling the Nano off and putting it back in (powered down and USB unplugged of course) would often fix it. If it still didn't straighten out, I rejected it. A few were doing things like restarting at random or not powering the laser.
I've also found that sometimes if you plug in the USB and try to connect while the main power is on, it won't connect. Make sure the power is off when you plug in the USB. Once it has connected to the computer, it is ok to turn the power back on.
hi all
this some results in manual mode servo motorand sensor don't work
i forgot to config before starting extrusion ! oups!!!
system work with firmware v9b
http://youtu.be/dIofDpUw_yI
Are you running 1.75 filament through a tube with 4mm inner diameter? It looks like the tube won't create enough drag to create tension on the spool. Something I've done to adjust tension is print a short sleeve to slide over the tube, with a screw going into the side. As you tighten the screw it pinches the tube, and you can control the tension by how hard you pinch the tube with the screw. The one I made was for 4mm outer/2mm inner tube and uses a M4 screw and nut.
hi ian
yes i'm running 1.75mm filament with tube 4mm inner diam.but the servo doesn't work
all is ok max guide ok mini guide ok middle ok
manu mode on , middle pressed ,filament in front of sensor ok.auto mode on the motor turn on with filament in front of sensor but when 1 turn spool is finished the servo doesn't move!
ok i'll try your pinch.stl
hi ian
i 'm running with the v9b firm
how can i test the ldr .in auto mode the filament is detect in the middle so motor off
filament is detect when it down so motor speed high
but when filament is on top on sensor the motor is speed high no LOW .How can i reduce speed when filament is top?
what can i do to correcting this?
soory for my english
Usually when this happens to me, calibrating again fixes it. I take extra care to not cast any shadows over it while I wave the filament. Since your room is so bright, it might help if you make a shade of some kind to reduce the ambient light on the sensor.
ok i ll try now.
see you in 20mn?
ok i 've test but i 've find something the sensor 1 and sensor 3 are inversed
so i'll try to remplace them and i'll podst the results
The potentiometer might have quit working. Do you have a multimeter? Check the resistance between the middle pin and one of the outside pins and make sure it changes as you turn the knob. If it doesn't, I'll send you a new one.
This post saved the day for me. I thought I might have a bad pot because the servo was acting weird. I couldn't get other things to work either. But testing the pot led me to find a swapped lead which solved everything. Filawinder working great now, thanks.
Can anyone recommend a printable spool that works with Filawinder? I just got mine working with 3mm and used a spool from some premade filament. I had to carve out the spool holes and duct tape the spool to the Filawinder gear cone to prevent it from slipping. 3mm is stiff so I need a lot of traction between the spool and the gearing.
Thanks
I've had good luck using a jam nut to prevent slipping. Tighten the nut against the spool hub with pliers, then use the pliers to hold that nut still while you tighten a second nut against it. That will keep the first one from loosening, which can happen otherwise. Also you can try coating the cone portions of the hub and spool gear with Plasti Dip, which comes as a dip or a spray (at both Lowes and Home Depot). That would give them a rubbery coating that might help.
Thanks Ian. Give the jam nut a try or try to add some friction to the spool hub. There are so many spool files available on Thingiverse I'll also try and find one with 5 spokes that might mate up with the gear cone.
Also, thank you for the great installation instructions and the impressive precision of the kit parts. After fumbling around with the woefully inadequate Filastruder documentation (you can't really tell which way to orient the back flange for example, I had to search on-line for photos of the latest mod to figure it out), it was straightforward and fun building the Filawinder.
Getting my first strude to feed property was a short but frustrating challenge, primarily due to the stiffness of the 3mm I'm making. But once I got it going, the laser and servo have synced perfectly, no manual intervention required after several hours of run. And I'm running the 3mm without the extension mod that I saw in an early post. I'm new to 3D printing so I started with 3mm. I'll be switching to 1.75 ASAP. Thanks again for a great kit.
(you can't really tell which way to orient the back flange for example, I had to search on-line for photos of the latest mod to figure it out),
touche. instructions updated. 
Ian - I have a request on your .stl files. Is it possible for you to orientate the parts so that they can be printed without support. The example I have is the Gear_Cone_Ridged_v2.stl file. When I went to print the part I did select with support just in case. Well it is printing small end down on the platform at this time. If the part was flipped over then it would take about 1/3 less plastic and about 1/2 the time to print. I have yet to find a free tool that will allow me to flip the .stl file and save it back as a .stl file. I have tried a bunch and they all want to save in their format. What a pain.
Bob
Repetier can do it. In the object placement tab you can rotate on X or Y by 180 degrees, and then save as STL. I use it all the time to put together a plate full of different parts and then save as STL so I don't have to repeat the process. Also KISSlicer isn't very flexible with organizing different STLs in one print, so I'll arrange them in RH, save as STL and then open it in RH.
If you print the gear and the hub flat side down, it won't need support. The lip that holds the bearing is supported by a single layer thick solid face which bridges the hole, and will need to be trimmed away.
So I do not get to run the Filawinder.
There must be something wrong.
Did it again today tried the best I throw the piece in the trash. Find the documentation for it very very weak.
100 firmware available here. Who's going to look through as which one to use there, then with jumper then again without.
What firmware is current for now, if you will work with 1.75 mm filament.
I can not calibrate the servo absolute.
Ian,
Do you have any of the winder kits on some website where I may purchase in less than 4~5 weeks.
please forgive me if this is not the place to ask this question.
I'm a bit desperate.
After 12 days no support?
Whats that?
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filastruder → FilaWinder Documentation
Powered by PunBB, supported by Informer Technologies, Inc.
