FilaWinder Documentation (Page 6 of 16)

Do the other buttons and switches work properly, can you calibrate the sensor and get it to control the motor?

It might be the connection of the wires to the button aren't good.  However I've run in to a couple of Arduinos which wouldn't respond to the left switch for no reason.  I put the leads of my multimeter on the metal tabs in the wire housing for the button wire so I could check continuity.  I wanted to see if the button press signal was reaching the board.  As soon as I pressed the button the guide moved, and the button worked from then on.  If you don't have a multimeter, you could try replacing the multimeter leads with both ends of a short piece of wire.

The jumper in the picture is set for troubleshooting mode.  For 3mm mode it would be on the set of pins to the left of it.

How fast is the extrusion bot running?  I've started using 30rpm motors, and I timed it at about 152cm/min of filament at full speed.  Is the top speed in auto mode as fast as manual mode?  I had found that auto wasn't outputting the full speed of the motor (255) so I added a multiplier to scale it up.

Double check that the pull control section looks like this-

  void pull_control()
  {
    qtra.readCalibrated(sensorValues);
    unsigned int line_position = qtra.readLine(sensorValues, QTR_EMITTERS_OFF, 1);  
    
  
    Input = line_position;                 //Get line position from sensors
    pullPID.Compute();  //Run the PID 
  int ScaledOutput = (Output * 1.7);             //Scale the Output from 0-150 to 0-255)       
  if (ScaledOutput <= 0) {ScaledOutput = 1;}         //Limit the output to the range of 0-255) 
  if (ScaledOutput >= 255){ScaledOutput = 255;}
  puller_speed = ScaledOutput;
  analogWrite(motor_spoolerPin,puller_speed);   //Set the spool speed to the PID result

}

I don't have any other gear sizes.  It would also require changing the distance between the motor and the spool hub.  If you can find or make a spool that had a wider hub, it will pull filament faster due to the larger circumference.

The arduino is supposed to be able to take up to 20v, with 12v the recommended max.  You could probably boost it a little without hurting the Arduino, but that specification is for the official version.  The regulator used on a clone may not be so robust.

If you run the 70rpm motor in manual mode can it go fast enough?  Based on how fast the 30rpm motor goes, it's hard to believe the 70 is too slow.  You can run in troubleshooting mode and watch the serial monitor to see if a full 255 PWM is getting sent to the motor.

Hey,

here I am again.

So now I'm back a piece came on.

Now I have the problem that when I press the left button and with the potentiometer position the servo, the servo always goes back and forth, quite easily. If I let go of the left button then hold the power not the position.

Do you understand what I mean? Not like you do in the video.

I can with the potentiometer, the speed of the motor control but if I want to control the speed via the sensor filament nothing is happening.

Firmware V9a jumper in the picture.

http://picload.org/image/ldlpiww/20140222_192419.jpg

Greetings

i mean the left Button to calibration den Servo.
When i push the left button und calibrate with the poti.

then when I let go of the left button, the servo moves somewhere else.

If the board otherwise correct. Jumper connected properly?

When you calibrate with the left button, it is setting the place where the guide will change direction, which is not the same as the place where the guide is currently winding filament.  After you set the limit with the left or right button, the next time the magnet passes the hall sensor on the control board the guide will move back to the current winding position. 

If it is moving back the moment you let go of the left button, it is possible that the magnet has been stopped over the hall sensor so that the move back to winding position gets triggered instantly.

It works fine.  I've used clear ABS with it, and the filament isn't so clear that it doesn't cast a shadow.  When you calibrate the sensor, it saves the brightest and darkest values it records as you wave the filament over it, and uses those values to determine what the shadow looks like.  So even if the shadow isn't very dark, it will still be able to detect it.  It might have more trouble with clear filament if there is a high level of ambient light, so if you are doing natural PLA in a sunny room it might be a good idea to shade the sensor.

Is the problem only auto mode?  Does the knob control the motor properly in manual mode?  In auto, the knob does not control the motor.  I often find that after I calibrate the sensor and switch to auto for the first time, the motor will spin at full speed until I pass a piece of filament over the sensor.   Then it begins to be controlled by the sensor and stops when I move the filament up and away.

Is the sensor working to control the spool at all in auto?  You can test it by waving a piece of filament around in front of the sensor before you start extruding.

You could just leave it in manual, stopped until the filament has reached the spool while the loop is above the sensor.  Turn off the extruder motor for a few moments while you attach the filament to the spool, then switch the extruder back on.  When the filament loop has dropped into the sensor, switch the winder to auto.

If the sensor does not control the speed of the motor in auto, open troubleshooting mode. Check that the middle button responds (changes from 1 to 0).  Check that calibration happens and it shows the Min and Max sensor values when complete.  If Calibration occurs, check to see that Loop Pos changes while moving filament in front of the sensor in Auto mode.  Finally check that Mot Speed is changing while Loop Pos changes.

So run in manual until you have stuck the filament on the spool?

What happens when you press the center button?  Does it change to 0 and then show a set of minimum and maximum values?

Push the center button while in manual mode so the sensor calibration begins.