Re: Nylon
Can you possibly print it upsidedown with support ? That would reduce the contact area
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filament → Nylon
Can you possibly print it upsidedown with support ? That would reduce the contact area
Can you possibly print it upsidedown with support ? That would reduce the contact area
You could, but I am only printing on the garolite to try to counter the warping of the nylon. If you printed it upside down the part would end up warping into an unusable shape.
The reduced contact area of printing it upside down would still be way to much for the garolite though.
Hey Departed, I just came across this on thingiverse. I think it's the taulman fellow's profile. He talks a little bit about using garolite and how he had to tape off some of the surface to prevent that super adhesion like you had. He also mentioned letting the part cool for a couple hours before removing the part from the garolite which I think he mentioned was to help prevent the warping.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:43634
I'm also finally getting around to trying my stuff out. I noticed my garolite has a slight bow to it. I know this stuff is suppose to be flat, but do you think if you printed your wheel on a board that had a slight bow to it that it might compensate for the pull of the warp?
Edit: Well I finally got to print a couple of gears, but they suffered casualty in my war against warp. I printed a small spur gear on garolite with no bed heat, and half the foot print of the spur gear curled, but remained for the entire print. The larger gear I printed on garolite with the print bed on and got much better adhesion, but wasn't enough. I lost that one all together as I tried to cutaway some blobbies that were hitting against the nozzle. I haven't played much with the settings yet or the bed height, but I am still pleased with how my first nylon prints came out. Can only get better....or so hopefully.
So I re-printed the wheel on the 1/2" garolite. There is no noticeable warping. Unfortunately, the print only made it about 85% before Microsoft decided my computer needed to be turned off. The wheel is still usable so it is headed to the machine shop again today to remove the garolite.
Looks nice, but it sucks MS messed you up.
Can't say I'm to happy about the MS problem.
However...machining went really well.
Final part: No warping...
Looking good, now show us what it's for
Looking good, now show us what it's for
Probably wont be going in till next week. Ill take a picture of it when it is in.
As promised...
Out of curiosity, what does it do?
How did the part removal go? Is the garolite now trash?
Out of curiosity, what does it do?
The wheel is a guide roller that helps to center a 8' x 4' extractor that weights about 500 pounds. The extractor travels up and down about a 40' tower. Its a pretty cool system.
How did the part removal go? Is the garolite now trash?
We turned the wheel on a lathe. Unfortunately the garolite was lost. It served its purpose though and we got a part that had no warping.
pretenda wrote:Out of curiosity, what does it do?
The wheel is a guide roller that helps to center a 8' x 4' extractor that weights about 500 pounds. The extractor travels up and down about a 40' tower. Its a pretty cool system.
He was fixing Willy Wonka's Glass elevator, I knew it.
He was fixing Willy Wonka's Glass elevator, I knew it.
The secret is out...
Great Taulman 618 post over here:
Great Taulman 618 post over here:
That's awesome...except for the part where he said nylon is low warp.
They are coming out with taulman 645 soon. Saw they were accepting applications for samples
Taulman 645 looks like some impressive stuff.
Update: Taulman is sending me a sample of 645 to test with. Can't wait.
Testing results coming soon...
Departed, 645 still supposed to be done on garolite with same temp?
Departed, 645 still supposed to be done on garolite with same temp?
Same temps. I think you can get away with about 5 less on the 645 according to the website. Still supposed to print on the garolite but I will probably do some initial tests with Masonite or painters tape.
When I do switch over to the garolite I am going to mask a good portion with tape to help in removing the test parts.
specs for 645:
http://www.taulman3d.com/645-specifications.html
My understanding with the taulman stuff was that it was suppose to be safer than printing straight nylon. The guys I bought it from said that the toxic fumes normally associated with nylon isnt present in the filament since it's a polymer, and so no worries about fumes. But then again, they used to say vinyl fumes were harmless so who knows.
This is from the taulman site:
"Are there fumes and odors?
The taulman polyamide materials give off almost no odor as compared to ABS. Most residual odors come from the humidity (water) that boils or steams off during printing and 618 had no measurable HCN.
When printing with ABS, Nylon, PLA or any material, we are changing the state of elements with temperature, so make sure you vent all fumes and odors."
There was a test that was able to detect 0.1 part per million. That is one part per 10 million or 1/100 of what OSHA allows an eight-hour exposure to.
Lower-priced trimmer line does not have fiber or abrasives in it - that would cost too much. The way the fancier lines cut better is to have a multi-sided shape. Stick to round 0.065" residential lines.
I do plan to use Taulman 645 for work and try trimmer line for fun and to experiment.
to be honest, even if I were to jump into this straight away, most reports are that it takes at least 3 days to dry the nylon to a usable state anyway...
It depends on the temperature. Wood is "kiln dried" at 180 F, so that is what I dried my line at for 24 hours in the oven with "fan bake" on. I got 1800 feet (3 lbs or 1.36Kg) from Amazon for $23 delivered. I have not tested it yet.
If you really want to be scientific, you can get two spools - weigh them when you get them, dry one at 180 F for like 4 days, weigh it again, come up with the percent moisture content that it started at using the same formula they use when drying wood, and then process the second one for 24 hours, and assuming it started at the same moisture content, see how much it dropped in just 24 hours - and then calculate how long you need to dry all future spools for. Hopefully the one dried for 24 hours is as dry as the one dried for 4 days.
So, correct me if Im wrong...
Using a garolite plate will eliminate warping, but it is still possible to print taulmans 618 on the standard SD bed?
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