101

Re: Nylon

My biggest concern over the clog would be the fumes generated from the trimmer line if you dont have a vent setup.

102

Re: Nylon

Went looking around for nylon prints on thingiverse and re-discovered the gunny sack.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:36200

Looks like a decent sized print.  This guy printed on a black breadboard from radioshack heated to 60C.  I might prefer the little bumps on the bottom of a print over the cellulose fibers.  Should be easier to sand out.

103

Re: Nylon

DePartedPrinter wrote:

With this in mind, we are planning to mill the garolite off the back of the wheel once the print is done which should be interesting.

What's the wheel for?

104

Re: Nylon

Re: the garolite sticking too well, has anyone tried strips of painters tape over it as well? This might just give the print a little less adhesion. Alternately, what about a light dusting of talcum powder over it?

105

Re: Nylon

Good adheshion today after all the ABS had been purged.

106

Re: Nylon

Gathering more info so it is all in 1 thread.

Over on the makerbot google group someone put up a simple way to dye 618 (and I just bought a bunch of rit!).

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic … 6Zo-dab1ac

I really want to do the new ziptie print once I pick up one of these breadboards.

107 (edited by DePartedPrinter 2013-03-09 02:00:04)

Re: Nylon

elmoret wrote:

What's the wheel for?

It goes in a customers very expensive piece of equipment that parts are no longer made for. Ill take a picture when it finally gets put in place. 

Progressing nicely, 6.5 hrs left. no warping. looking really good.

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=1396&download=0

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108

Re: Nylon

damnit man, I am continually forgetting about this clam shell packaging and getting thin areas or layer separation due to my negligence. I'm gonna spend some time to put this stuff on a spool!

109

Re: Nylon

Taulman 618 cable tie printed at .2mm height.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:58776

Used a 6x8" perfboard from radioshack. I had the bed at 100C which I think is way higher than needed. The perfboard smelled a bit funky. Going to try 65C next round. There was just minor oozinging into some of the holes, but it seems way better than having the wood fibers embedded.

http://f.cl.ly/items/1A3S3K290V0q2w10261Y/photo%203.JPG

110

Re: Nylon

Nickythegreek, is it still easy enough to remove the part from the perfboard, or do you have to wrestle it off a bit?

111

Re: Nylon

No it was removing pretty easy.  But these have still all been pretty small parts. I haven't printing anything with a large surface area touching the board.

112 (edited by DePartedPrinter 2013-03-11 15:09:26)

Re: Nylon

Part is done. It's now stuck to a garolite plate. You can see that the warping did cause some deflection in the plate.  I'm hoping that this does not end up in the part once we remove the plate.

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=1429&download=0
http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=1430&download=0

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113 (edited by cmetzel 2013-03-11 15:13:51)

Re: Nylon

For future runs print more solid base layers with added thickness so you can machine it flat if needed.  Just a thought.

Looks awesome though.

114 (edited by DePartedPrinter 2013-03-11 15:27:16)

Re: Nylon

cmetzel wrote:

For future runs print more solid base layers with added thickness so you can machine it flat if needed.  Just a thought.

Looks awesome though.


We thought about adding some thickness when we designed it.  I am hoping to get it over to the machine shop this afternoon for some work.  I am contemplating leaving a portion of the garolite on the back of the part out of fear it will warp if removed.

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115

Re: Nylon

If you took the garolite and machined in a series of stripes or hatch pattern prior to printing, would it have enough left to stick to the garolite but possibly release?  You may have a slight wobble to the bottom of the print that you may have to sand down but if you could reuse the garolite it may be worth it.

116 (edited by DePartedPrinter 2013-03-11 16:16:42)

Re: Nylon

cmetzel wrote:

If you took the garolite and machined in a series of stripes or hatch pattern prior to printing, would it have enough left to stick to the garolite but possibly release?  You may have a slight wobble to the bottom of the print that you may have to sand down but if you could reuse the garolite it may be worth it.


I think people have done what you describe simply using masking tape.  I debated doing this before I printed the wheel but decided against it because I was worried about areas pulling up between the exposed garolite where the nylon contacted the masking tape.  I think a better solution is a heated build environment but that is not going to happen with the SD.

Reusing the garolite is not a huge concern.  Company paid for the garolite & nylon which will then get billed to the customer for $$$$.  A lot of labor is going into that wheel...

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117 (edited by DePartedPrinter 2013-03-11 22:13:34)

Re: Nylon

There were some machining issues...back to the drawing board

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=1440&download=0

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=1441&download=0

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118 (edited by DePartedPrinter 2013-03-11 22:21:20)

Re: Nylon

part was strong was ever before it got mangled...

also, the warping was pretty bad through the garolite. We were going to have to remove about an 1/8th of nylon from the back of the wheel to remove the all the garolite due to the warping.  Only solution for this I can think of is to use a thicker piece of garolite that hopefully wont deflect.  Thinking a half inch...or more

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119

Re: Nylon

I took a sheet of masonite and printed the Taulman 618 nylon directly to it, without changing a single thing in my Slic3r settings.  The result is not prefect, but it is an amazing start.   The red star on the left was printed in ABS; the white star on the right was printed in nylon. The part came off of the masonite quickly and easily (but I may not be that lucky next time).  To my surprise, the nylon part was not particularly flexible.

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120

Re: Nylon

jon_bondy wrote:

I took a sheet of masonite and printed the Taulman 618 nylon directly to it, without changing a single thing in my Slic3r settings.  The result is not prefect, but it is an amazing start.   The red star on the left was printed in ABS; the white star on the right was printed in nylon. The part came off of the masonite quickly and easily (but I may not be that lucky next time).  To my surprise, the nylon part was not particularly flexible.

Good to hear it worked on your first try. You can clearly see the warping effects on the star.

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121

Re: Nylon

Did you end up trying the freezer to remove part at all? What temp did you print on the garolite?  Would increasing that temp help stabalize the warp? I'll try and find some time to try a large print like this on my perfboard, but I gotta switch out my nylon for some other work prototypes soon.

122

Re: Nylon

nickythegreek wrote:

Did you end up trying the freezer to remove part at all? What temp did you print on the garolite?  Would increasing that temp help stabalize the warp? I'll try and find some time to try a large print like this on my perfboard, but I gotta switch out my nylon for some other work prototypes soon.

I did not try the freezing. I have a half inch garolite plate on order. I will try it with that.  I don't think it will work though. The nylon was basically welded to the garolite.

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123

Re: Nylon

I had no problems removing the nylon from the masonite. I wonder what determines the "grab" for each material

124

Re: Nylon

DePartedPrinter, did the garolite begin warping while you still had it clipped to the bed, or did it the warp show after you unclipped it from the bed?

The garolite octave sells is 1/4" thick, so hoping that will be a little more rigid than ones you used. They are also smaller than the bed though. I still need to figure out how I'm gonna clamp it to the bed. Should have checked Mcmaster before buying mine.

125

Re: Nylon

vince7c95 wrote:

DePartedPrinter, did the garolite begin warping while you still had it clipped to the bed, or did it the warp show after you unclipped it from the bed?

The garolite octave sells is 1/4" thick, so hoping that will be a little more rigid than ones you used. They are also smaller than the bed though. I still need to figure out how I'm gonna clamp it to the bed. Should have checked Mcmaster before buying mine.

I am about 99% sure it only showed the warping after I removed the plate. Binder clips worked pretty well for me but the plates I used were 6x6. I think 1/4 inch should work pretty well for most stuff, it's only when you print large objects that you are going to run into any problems.

If I still get warping with a 1/2 inch plate I'm pretty much gonna say I'm SOL on the wheel.  My boss will be pissed if I can't get this wheel completed.

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