Nylon (Page 4 of 9)

this guy seems to get past the warp  by using one massive brim.

https://groups.google.com/d/msg/trinity … fyyGzTLesJ

then later stating:

"The secret to beating the warp is 245C. "

I think that temp might be some sort of sweet spot top achieve maximum bonding for the polymer they are using. Which was visible in my single wall prints by its layer separations.

Here is a nylon delimitation and pliability test print.

And ere are some of the highlights from taulman's FAQ:

618 prints over a wide temperature range and while your current temperature may be low for maximum bonding, you may not need a part that can survive a sledge hammer on your first print.  There are just a few items to note so you eventually get the best from 618's properties.
1.  618 will not print/stick to glass or aluminum print tables.  The best table material for a new user is a flat piece of unfinished poplar wood or blue painters tape. These are at all hobby stores or home depots.  For perfect adhesion, check the information below.
2.  618's bonding is best at a true 245C. 
3.  You may have heard nylon emits fumes.  618 does not emit any fumes for printing.  Actually, there is no odor at all from 618.  You may see what looks like puffs of smoke, but it is actually water vapor or steam.  If you are interested in seeing a full report on extruding Nylon based materials, please check this link as it's an extensive report used by all of industry.

"4. Slippery Surface - 618 can eliminate collars, U-joints, washers, separate raceways and ball joints by using the materials slippery properties.  Ball bearings that require no lubrication are easily printed. And most important, threaded holes that won't delaminate under pressure."

I got to try and print some of these ball bearings.

I've tried a huge brim and unfortunately it didn't work for me. The brim stuck like glue, but the part pulled up on the corner in any case. It's got some significant strength to it.

I think you would be ok at 205. I was getting perfect layer bonding at 200.

I started using it at 205 but it was sooo oozey it was unmanageable. I went down to 200 and it printed great (apart from the peeling of course)

One other thing I noticed too was that if you have any ABS in your print, layer bonding goes out the window. I was doing a test print, I fed 50mm through, and still had some abs, I could pull the bottom layers apart with my fingers.

...so keep it under 205

I'm reading that people are using retraction rates of anywhere from 4-8mm. I didn't get a chance to do any prints today, but I got an adapter that I got draw up and print. This nylon should be a great medium to do it in.

Are you guys not having problems when set to 205? I have set mine to 205 before in the past for other reasons and currently I have a black blob of peek goo oozing out between the barrel and the peek. 202-3 seems to be the highest I can go without melting my peek further.

Garolite plates showed up.  Part # 6842K62 McMaster-carr  (6x6 and 3/16 thick)

Eager to try some nylon, I picked up some weed whacker line at Lowes last night ($8 for 275ft) and decided to try it with my default ABS settings (195 deg).

I was amazed at how well a test cube printed out, considering I put zero effort into it.  I'm under-extruding quite a bit because the filament is only 1.65mm and my settings are for 1.75, but it came out surprisingly solid with only a little delamination:

A plus is that it came in a nice blue color.

tealvince, I'd be careful with that trimmer line.

From taulman's site:

Can I just use plain Nylon trimmer line?

  Trimmer line does "look" like and contain nylon, however, trimmer line or weed-whacker line also contains various additives that are destructive and or dangerous for your 3D Printer.
First, it has fiberglass to strengthen it, as without fiberglass, the ends will fray/split and cause trimmer jams. Next, nylon on it's own is too flexible in a thin line, so fiberglass hardens it for cutting. Fiberglass will foul your nozzle because it requires a higher temp to melt along with the nylon. The higher temp will actually boil the nylon and other additives giving off a smell. The additives are there to reduce the bulk % of nylon as nylon is more expensive than the additives. These additives are usually calcium based and can clog or foul your nozzle