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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → RepRapDiscount "Bulldog XL" Geared Metal Extruder on a Solidoodle 3!
Great I'll give it a shot tonight and let you know how she works!!!
If you have any problems let me know I'll be around.
Ok I think I got it all back together but it took me a long time to get he bolts for the belts on. The nights wouldn't slide in and I had to end up breaking off the small ledges to get it in. Not sure if you guys ran into that so it just be something wrong with my print. But now that it's on it fits great!
You got it right just cut those out of the way they are only there as support. When I get a chance I will redesign that part of it.
Do you have it printing yet?
Not yet I put it on during my lunch break but after work I'll try priming something. That makes sense lol I thought I broke it lol. I'll let you know how she does when she starts printing
She is up and printing and it works GREAT! Thanks for the work guys!
Edit:
Now I need to find a 40mm fan duct, know any good ones to use with this setup?
I just got my Bulldog XL and E3D and I can't wait to get it working. I am using it on a printer I am designing and a mm 1.5. Does anyone know if there is an stl of the original mount modified to fit the 3ed and nothing else?
From my measurements it looks like the e3d needs a .5-.6mm shim to hold it tight against the body. Do you think this could be printed?
I just got my Bulldog XL and E3D and I can't wait to get it working. I am using it on a printer I am designing and a mm 1.5. Does anyone know if there is an stl of the original mount modified to fit the 3ed and nothing else?
From my measurements it looks like the e3d needs a .5-.6mm shim to hold it tight against the body. Do you think this could be printed?
Lawsy's MK-4 or MK-5 will work with the E3D search thingiverse for it under "replacement jigsaw"
From my measurements it looks like the e3d needs a .5-.6mm shim to hold it tight against the body. Do you think this could be printed?
You can certainly try - but the tolerances mean it will probably need to be printed at .1 layers and about .7 high and then filed back again to fit.
I've used U-Mold/Polymorph plastic to mould one, and thats still working on that bulldog. I've also used a washer in 3 pieces.
Best suggestion I've seen would be actually though to use some guitar string wrapped around the E3D... if you get the right gauge one, it should be perfect and fairly permanent as well 
I think I misread the question a piece of solid wire shape of a U works well.
I've been working on a clip on fan to try to help with my bridging problem, and this is what I've come up with, I'm sure it's not the most efficient setup because I'm just winging it and I haven't gotten a chance to wire it up as I'm getting ready to move but maybe someone will like it? or run with it and make it better lol. I've attached the 123D design file and a few pics of it with some of my failed prototypes.
PS. Oh and it fits a 40mm fan.
Looks like basically the one I came up with. When you get to Alaska you can refine it and then like I did decide you don't like not being able to see the nozzle. So back to the drawing board to come up with one that hangs behind and under. Now if I could just find another fan like the one that came with the Bulldog. What do you suppose the technical term for one of those is? I have searched everywhere.
Think how nice that would be.... up and out of the way with a very simple duct that doesn't block the view.
What do you suppose the technical term for one of those is? I have searched everywhere.
Think how nice that would be.... up and out of the way with a very simple duct that doesn't block the view.
I think it's called a brushless blower fan. There are a few different styles of them.
wardjr wrote:What do you suppose the technical term for one of those is? I have searched everywhere.
Think how nice that would be.... up and out of the way with a very simple duct that doesn't block the view.I think it's called a brushless blower fan. There are a few different styles of them.
Well I would love to find one that blows out the side like that. If you come up with a link let me know.
mloebl wrote:wardjr wrote:What do you suppose the technical term for one of those is? I have searched everywhere.
Think how nice that would be.... up and out of the way with a very simple duct that doesn't block the view.I think it's called a brushless blower fan. There are a few different styles of them.
Well I would love to find one that blows out the side like that. If you come up with a link let me know.
Here's a 35mm I think, trying to find a 40mm:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/35mm-7mm-New-Bl … 0629366620
Here's a 35mm I think, trying to find a 40mm:
Also just realized I have bought fans in the past from him (thought he looked familiar), and his customer service was *excellent*. At the time I was looking for some water resistant fans for making some misters when I was raising tropical plants, and he could source them for me. Bet he could get other size blowers if needed.
Thank You
Saves me a bunch of time
Noticed the CFM are much lower for the blower fans of the same size. What should be the typical CFM for a print cooling fan.
I think that all depends on the type of duct that is used. In this case I feel I can move more air to the desired location as it will really just be a straight shot. I would really like to find a 40mm of the same style.
there are plenty of 40mm blower fans on ebay some are 40mmX50mm and there seem to be two thicknesses of each a 10mm and a 20mm
I'm excited to see what you come with with wardjr.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-Lot-Brand- … 4ace16fee3
This one says its 40X10... but the outlet looks wider.
Cooling for a print needs actually surprisingly little air flow for effect - blowers are nice for directing the air, but not actually largely increasing quality yield. Blowing on a print works (try it during bridging, you'd be surprised 
) .. as does a piddly 30mm fan run with PWM... I use a blower myself as they are easier to direct than a standard push/puller fan but their actual power is not required for effective results. But...
The main issue with a blower @ 100% is going to come with causing warping well beyond the nozzle zone as it starts to cool large chunks of your print at hugely higher rates relative to ambient and the bed...
The key to it here is that you are looking to 'skin' the plastic quickly, helping it stay in place, but you DONT want to actually cause active cooling as that will cause other print related issues... Balance is the key here and you need to find 'goldilocks conditions' (which is why PWM control of the printer fan is pretty crucial to 'set and forget' prints with fans...)
All of this of course can be compensated for with a superior bed choice which makes the plastic less more impervious to temp conditions - but it wont help with mid-print contraction/delamination issues.
So blowers are nice for directed air - but don't over engineer the solution from a 'searching for High-CFM' perspective...
Oh - and keep in mind that even though lots of these fans can have big CFM rates... their effective pressure means you can't duct them very far - so routing is crucial - the less turns the better, and the less restrictive the better...
TL;DR - Throwing more air at the situation may actually be counter-productive unless done in consideration of other variables.
Cooling for a print needs actually surprisingly little air flow for effect - blowers are nice for directing the air, but not actually largely increasing quality yield. Blowing on a print works (try it during bridging, you'd be surprised
The main issue with a blower @ 100% is going to come with causing warping well beyond the nozzle zone as it starts to cool large chunks of your print at hugely higher rates relative to ambient and the bed...
The key to it here is that you are looking to 'skin' the plastic quickly, helping it stay in place, but you DONT want to actually cause active cooling as that will cause other print related issues... Balance is the key here and you need to find 'goldilocks conditions' (which is why PWM control of the printer fan is pretty crucial to 'set and forget' prints with fans...)
All of this of course can be compensated for with a superior bed choice which makes the plastic less more impervious to temp conditions - but it wont help with mid-print contraction/delamination issues.
So blowers are nice for directed air - but don't over engineer the solution from a 'searching for High-CFM' perspective...
Oh - and keep in mind that even though lots of these fans can have big CFM rates... their effective pressure means you can't duct them very far - so routing is crucial - the less turns the better, and the less restrictive the better...
TL;DR - Throwing more air at the situation may actually be counter-productive unless done in consideration of other variables.
Well said Adrian,
As you know I am in the middle of another project.
I really am not looking for more air than I can already produce with a more traditional fan and duct. The main goal here will be to create a very simple and effective duct that...
1. Doesn't block the view of the nozzle.
2. Has as little mass as possible.
3. Is easy to install on the bulldog mount from the underside with out having to re-design the mount.
Either way I suspect I am a few weeks away from having any real time to dedicate to this.
a small (30mm) blower mounted vertically with ducting to a ring style nozzle blower would look really cool and probly preform pretty well.
i really need to dedicate some time to learning 3d modeling...
a small (30mm) blower mounted vertically with ducting to a ring style nozzle blower would look really cool and probly preform pretty well.
i really need to dedicate some time to learning 3d modeling...
I wasn't impressed with the ring style. I got better results with a straight duct but it could have been a bad design or something. Also I like to see the nozzle when it prints.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → RepRapDiscount "Bulldog XL" Geared Metal Extruder on a Solidoodle 3!
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