print gcode files to miniMaker (Page 13 of 16)

I can not test your beta version, because I am a Linux user only. Is the source of this version available ?

In the commit 2e73c83 Jan 6, 2019, could you in miniMover/miniMoverConsole/makefile replace xyzprinterlist by XYZPrinterList

Thank you,
Happy printing !

First off, have to say..  Awesome software, works amazingly on my Di Vinci 1.0 Pro.  The only bug I have found so far is that I UI information for the software and front display while it is printing, and the machine control in MiniMover do not seem to work on my machine. Now to be fair I do need to control my machine from MiniMover.... However, I used to get a time and temp readout while printing, but the new code does not show it.  It only show the initial "building initializing please wait" screen.  This would not be a big deal except it mean I lose my ability to access menus access in printing menus that allow for pausing and canceling of prints from the machine.  Thank you, for all your hard work on this phenomenal job!

I will be giving this a go tonight!! Thank you so much for your efforts.
neil

Thanks for that info, I don't have a working printer that has a display so I'm out of the loop, this helps a lot.  I will post a note on github on this with a link to your plugin.

0.96 beta is connecting to my Jr. 1.0 Pro, but I can't do any commands like home, bed leveling etc. . Only the "convert function" works. Thanks

Thank you for your time. Do you know a g-code command to PAUSE the print that really works with xyz printers?
Da Vinci Jr. 1.0 Pro

You could try to add gcode that moves the printhead out of the way then executed a long delay, but there is no interactive pause and resume for the xyz printers.

You would literally have to manually generate the gcode that will move the head the desired number of mm in the desired direction and wait for x time all the while keeping the extruder hot, releasing it for your control and then moving it back to the original position after you are done assuming you have not moved the head even one step in any direction. If you did then it would ruin the entire thing. Once you created that section of gcode you would then manually add that section of gcode to the correct location in the already generated gcode from the slicer.

What you are wanting to do requires a dual head printer, or the pallet system. All options that should have been thought of before wasting money on the Da Vinci as that money plus another $500 to $1000 could have been used to get what you want.

Now you could also take sections of filament and weld/melt them together but there is no real accurate way to control where the color change will happen and your weld would have to be secure and the same diameter as the existing filament.

First go here and get an overview of various commands.

http://marlinfw.org/meta/gcode/

Next the command you are looking for is G1.

The usage is G1 F500 Zxxx.

F500 is the speed you want it to move at and Z is the axis to move then xxx is the distance in mm you want it to move.

Note if you move it up you will also have to move it back down. It will not return to the height it was automatically.

What you are trying to do in S3D is supposed to be done by the printer using multiple extruders. Not by you doing it manually.

If you did that then it is going to move the head to the 10mm position, not 10mm. So if you print is above 10mm it will crush the print. If it is below the 10mm point it will move to it. You have to figure out at what height you want the change at and put that the value in you need to be at in regards to that height.

The issue is what system is your printer currently set at. Relative or Absolute positioning. If set for relative which is usually not the case by default it will move in regards to the last position and simply add the value to the current value.

If set for absolute then it will treat the value used as the target coordinates and move to that value meaning if the value you put in is less than the current value it will crush what has been printed.

G90 and G91 – Set Positioning Mode
Your printer can use either absolute or relative positioning. Absolute positioning means that you will be telling your 3D printer to move an exact XYZ coordinate. Relative positioning is used when you want to tell the printer how far it should move from the current location. Send a G90 command to tell your printer to use absolute positioning, or a G91 for relative positioning. The majority of your gcode file will likely use absolute positioning, since the slicer has already determined the exact XYZ coordinates to move to. However, if you don’t know the previous position of the toolhead, or you simply know that you want to move the head a certain distance along an axis, you can use relative positioning. While G90 and G91 control the positioning mode for the X, Y, and Z axes, you can also use M82 or M83 to set your extruder (E-axis) to absolute or relative positioning.

Arguments:
None

Example usage:
G90 ; use absolute positioning for the XYZ axes
G1 X10 F3600 ; move to the X=10mm position on the bed
G1 X20 F3600 ; move to X=20mm

G91 ; use relative positioning for the XYZ axes
G1 X10 F3600 ; move 10mm to the right of the current location
G1 X10 F3600 ; move another 10mm to the right

You need to look at your gcode your slicer is generating and see what system it is setting for when it begins the print to know how to set your move. You may need to add G90 or G91 to your move script in order to change the move system for the time you need it for then change it back if necessary.

You can't add it to the start gcode. You have to manually open the sliced gcode and add the line to the appropriate spot where you want the lift to happen in the build. Anything you put in the start gcode will happen at that time, the start. I am guessing you want the change to happen 10mm into the build. So you would need to open and edit the gcode and insert the move part as well as a pause part then move back part into the 10mm point of the gcode.

To do this you will need to learn to read gcode and know when a layer change happens and how many it takes to reach 10mm based on your layer thickness.

Like I said this is something you want a machine that is built to do to do. It  is not something you can do easily or even hard, but with great difficulty with your machine and knowledge. Heck, even I would not try it with my 15 years experience. To be honest based on your questions and mistakes so far I am going to be blunt and tell you this is far above your current knowledge level. You need a good year of printing and gcode under your belt before trying stuff like this.

If you really want to print in dual  or more color I would suggest saving up a buying a machine made for such a purpose. Dual/multi Extruder printers start around the $800 USD range and go on up into the several $K range.

If you want to stay with the machine you have and not buy a new one you might want to consider the Pallate system I mentioned earlier. It is an add on for any machine that changes from one color to sever others.

https://www.mosaicmfg.com/

But at a cost of an additional $600 you have to ask how bad you want multi-color.