SD3 Repetier stops print due to temperature ~>215C (Page 1 of 2)

Start by calibrating your steps/mm.
Basically measure 100mm of filament and mark it.  Then manually enter 100mm and click extrude (extruder hot).
What you are looking for is 100mm called for = 100mm pulled by the motor.
There is a nice link in the WIKI to a video showing the process.  Some of it no longer applies as all you need to do is change the number in EEPROM within RH.  Basically it is set at 138 steps/mm and it should be closer to 105.

Just remember that even though it is a pain, calibration is your friend.

it really doesnt matter if you use Repetier or Octoprint or something else - you should still run the calibrations for the best quality prints.

I'm still calibrating the machine, but I've run into a strange reappearance of an old problem.

I'm still nursing the SD3 up to 212C to avoid an over temp issue when 215C is achieved....shuts down the Repetier program.  For now I'm okay to do this, but later I'll look to figure out a permanent change

While printing in ABS a large piece, the unit ran fine for 3 hours

Then the filament started to slip causing the print to achieve a sort of birds nest quality (not enough flowrate!)

I stopped the print and retracted the filament out .  I can see filament shavings (dust might be a better description) on the drive wheel where it was trying to advance the filament.

When I try to extrude now, the drive wheel slips again like before.  I do get a small amount to extrude, but it is a thin thread..I'm running the tip at 212C which should work.

I wonder if there is a clog in my tip...any ideas?

Joe

What is the advantage of buying the high end tip?  What other materials could I print with?

Nylon is the main thing that I print with the E3d.
Did you order an Mk5?  You'll need a mount for your new hot end.
I'll be happy to link you instructions for flashing the firmware.  This is required for the E3d assembly.  It is nothing to be feared but if you've never done it can seem daunting.
What board does your printer have?

Yep but you need a mount if your still using the original acrylic.  If you contact Filastruder you can buy one for like $5.  It is just a temp to get you up and running.

Ward, I'm a bit frustrated by the nozzle failure.  I'm already developing a customer need for parts and I'm out of business right now.

my plan is to have multiple extrusion assemblies so that I can do better on delivery.  I'll likely get another machine at some point.

I'm a middle school science teacher and I think that ir would be cool to do a winter camp where a group of kids put together and modify a kit type printer.  I'll include the cost of the printer in the camp cost.....what parent could resist that?  At the end, the kid takes the printer home!!!

Anyways, I digress 

When I manually exrude the filament, it does everything but come out smoothly. 

doing my research and seeing what is on the extrusion assembly...I will need some supplies.  I want to review this with you.

Kapton tape (can you confirm the exact type or part number.  what width would you get?)
I see there is a sort of black/asbestos looking tape around the heater block.  I assume that is for insulation.  what is that?

what else should I have on hand for this exchange?

I have a degree in mechanical engineering, so that just makes me dangerous.

thanks, Joe

Heartless knows what she's talking about so I second her post.
Don't mess with kapton and just get a piece of glass cut at the local hardware store.  Then buy a can of Aquanet extreme hold hairspray.  Spray the bed (kapton in place or not) then stick the glass on the bed.  Spray a nice mist coat on the top of the glass and let dry.   Maybe repeat this to ensure a nice even application.  Then adjust your Z end stop to compensate for the new bed height.  I try to avoid binder clips to hold the glass, if the bed is warped the glass will be too.  With hairspray it will fill in the gaps. 
The. Heat cool cycle 3 times and the glass will stick yet be removable.

Tell me what board you have or take a picture and I'll link you the proper set of instructions..

Thanks Heartless,
Thanks Wardjr

Just got the new tip delivered....want to work on that tonight

per your request, pictures of my board

I've got the configuration.h changed

I'm having trouble with finding the board and getting the Marlin board type into the Arduino 0022