Solidoodle 3 fixed problems and current problems. HELP?! (Page 4 of 6)

The printrboard already has firmware to control the fan, but it is missing the header to connect the fan. I just added a bunch of missing headers to my printrboard, and it was sometimes an adventure since getting a solder sucker to work on some of the holes that were directly connected to the big old power and ground planes was tricky. The fan header wasn't a problem though. Here's what all the added headers look like. The fan header is at the top:

I plugged in a fan and was able to watch it speed up and slow down or turn off using the manual controls in Repetier Host, so the missing header seems to be the only tricky bit to getting the fan to work.

Of course the other problem is getting the fan actually mounted on the carriage. I haven't looked at that yet.

Great thanks for all the info like usual!

That's the main one right now but there are others out there.
I like this one  https://grabcad.com/  but a lot of the stuff isn't in .stl
Just look around.

Do you mean the layers separate?

ABS Glue and pressure will work depending on the size of the print and where it's cracking. 

On long pieces you'd want to apply even downward pressure across the length of the part. Coat the separated area with ABS glue and keep the pressure on until it seals... Textbooks work remarkably well if you have enough of them.

If we're talking something irregular like a sculpted piece... good luck.  When they do that you end up losing detail with any kind of repair, but you can weld using a thicker ABS glue and sand down once it's completely dry.  You'll only be covering the cracked area, but it's better than nothing.

thanks!

If your going to start playing around with different filaments I would consider getting a hot end that is up to the task.  E3D makes an all metal hot end that is virtually indestructible.  That is what I use and I love it.

right from filastruder (elmoret) His name is Tim he is a US distributor and service is great.
http://www.filastruder.com
As far as install it is pretty simple if you have the MKV printed.  Just need to wire up the heat core, the thermistor and the included fan.  You can use your existing thermistor if you don't want to mess with firmware changes I have one running that way just fine.

1.75 as far as wiring it up I think Hunter green did a really nice write up here on the forum.  If you order one let me know I haven't left you hanging yet, you'll figure it out.  It is pretty simple.

anyone know what the best way to remove left over ABS on thr print bed. It sticks really well and theres a layer that i can't scrape off

That's a good problem to have considering where you started. If the layer is stuck on the glass you can use a razor blade to scrape it off.  If it's on the Kapton use acetone (fingernail polish remover) to wipe it off.