Solidoodle 3 fixed problems and current problems. HELP?! (Page 2 of 6)

Unfortunately it is.  Mine showed up with broken parts form shipping.  I think they really get bounced around getting shipped.
Don't worry about it too much once you get it really working good it will be worth it. 
Half the fun is changing and modifying your printer and there is always someone here on the forum that is willing to help.
One of the best things you can do is get a piece of glass cut to print on and buy some Aqua-net to help with adhesion.
I like to keep the bed temps high.  If you haven't already get it enclosed that helps a lot.  Go grab some Saran Wrap it works great as a temporary enclosure.

Easy enough are you using Repetier-Host?

There are good resources for both if you search (forum or google), eg

For belts, watch this video: http://wiki.solidoodle.com/belt-adjustment
Extruder, this one (do what video description says, not wiki or video): http://wiki.solidoodle.com/extruder-calibration

I was lucky (and, also, in NYC area), but belts may get bumped during shipping, and seems extruder is usually set to overextrude from factory (guess it makes bed leveling issues a little less likely to lead to complete inability to print, trading off some print quality? A customer with a bit more banding etc is less likely to be pissed than one that can't print at all... just guessing).

Thanks Spapadim I'll check them out

with your printer connected just go to the config tab and open firmware EEPROM Configuration.  To the far right of that screen on the Steps per mm  the E: box it is at something like 130?  Change it to 100.  Then click the save to EEPROM button on the bottom.

Ultimately you will have to calibrate it properly it really doesn't take that long.
Did you get your belt tight?  Did that fix the problem?

Might as well what do you have to lose.  I'm really just giving you the basics in the end take the time to calibrate everything.  It will make a huge difference in reliability.
Just draw a quick cube or something and print it.  If it doesn't look good right away adjust and try again.

Sorry was away for other business... I am guessing you aren't squishing your first layer enough.  Try adjusting your Z-stop closer to the nozzle and check it in each corner of the bed.  Your going to want it just about touching the bed.  Do a quick test and if the filament pulls with the head it needs to be closer to the bed.

I got it thanks for all the help. If there's any future problems would you mind if I contact you?  Thanks again!

Once you get your E-steps calibrated for your printer (usually it's around 100 as wardjr said, but may want to measure yourself), you'll also want to calibrate flow rate following this: http://wiki.solidoodle.com/flow-rate (single-wall calibration cubes). You can get calipers fairly cheaply ($10-20) from Amazon or Harbor Freight (and you'll generally be using them a fair bit). And the glass is highly recommended: go to a local picture frame store, and ask them to cut a couple of 6x6 pieces (and bevel them if they can, they're sharp). Also, a $2 Aquanet hairspray from Target works wonders too. If print in directly on kapton (yellow tape - kind of scotch tape that can take high heat), make sure it's clean (wipe occasionally with acetone, or at least alcohol).

For bed leveling: http://wiki.solidoodle.com/leveling-the-print-bed I usually get it closer than recommended in video (I use my piece of glass, and turn leveling screws to the point that the print head grabs it lightly and moves it around when unclipped, then turn screw back by 1/8th turn or so -- one turn of an M4 screw is about 0.7mm if I remember right, and for bed leveling we're talking distances of less than 0.1mm, so... keep in mind . Good luck!

Post a picture of something you've printed just curious to see how things are working.

Did the photo post?