[ Closed ] Filament Extruder - Convert pellets to filament (Page 7 of 58)

Nice! What's your source?

This is an exciting project.  I hope to join in the development as soon as I can.. SD3 comming in January.  Excellent work so far!

Nice! Looks consistent? What ratio did you mix in the colorant?

It is recommended to mix at a ratio of 100 to 1.  Being that I was doing a super small test batch I'd say it was mixed about 50 to 1 with natural ABS. I figured the actual filament color would be lighter than the masterbatch color but it ended up being the exact same (see picture). Ended up being very consistent.

Bad news: Looks like my thrust bearing is starting to destroy itself. Guess we need something stronger. Might have to put off extruding till it is replaced.

Yes, I'm thinking it got metal flakes in it when I took the kit apart the first time. Lesson learned.

I actually switched back to the 30lb bearing, it's been fine for 24 hours straight once I oiled it.

I do have spare bearings. I can send some for free on the 27th - email me.

Can you take a picture of the bearing, and one of the whole extruder?

Edit: I found one at the same price that's rated to 2,000 lbs that we can switch to.

http://store.osprintingllc.com/Plastic-Pellets

These guys seem to have reasonable prices.

^What he said

Couple of things to keep in mind.  They sell both ABS and HDPE colorants.  I am getting some interesting results mixing HDPE colorant and ABS plastic (not going to recomend doing this yet until I dial in temperatures and ratios). If you order from them I would stick with ABS and ABS colorant.  I have been talking with the guys at OSprinting and you can expect more ABS colors in the coming months.

Have any more pictures to share? Also, I never got an email about your thrust bearing - let me know if you need one!

Well, you're certainly putting the machine through its paces! I've only ever fed it natural ABS, and I've never exceeded 200degC. I'm glad the limits are getting pushed!

I've been having trouble with alignment between the 4" nipple that holds the hopper and the 3" nipple which holds the hotend.  The two nipples are screwed onto flanges which are bolted back to back.  It turns out the flanges aren't completely flat, so if they are bolted down tight to each other, the nipples are misaligned.  The only way I can keep the auger from binding is if I leave the flanges loose enough to find their own alignment.  I don't know if this will lead to the auger wearing down one side of a nipple or not, because the flanges move a bit as I turn the auger by hand.  It might be better once it is actually mounted to the motor shaft.

I was going to try using a single 8" nipple and got the hopper opening cut out, and then found I couldn't get the auger into the pipe at all.  It turns out the pipe was made by rolling steel and welding the edges, which left a seam on the inside.   All the galvanized and black iron pipes at Lowes and two regional chains had the seams.  I haven't had a chance to check Home Depot.  Brass nipples, while expensive, are completely smooth inside.  However they only go up to 6".  I don't know if having the hot zone 2" shorter would be a problem.

Tim, where did you get the nipples?  It looks like you lucked out and happened to get ones that where drawn rather than welded, unless you have some way to grind down the inside surface.