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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filastruder → Filament Extruder - Convert pellets to filament
Shapeways sent me a box of powdered nylon, asked me to give it a go. Should be interesting!
How fine of a powder?
elmoret wrote:Shapeways sent me a box of powdered nylon, asked me to give it a go. Should be interesting!
How fine of a powder?
Pretty close to flour.
Very curious to see how that works in the Filastruder.
Building a fresh kit for it? I wonder if the extrusion rate will be more consistent with powder vs pellets.
Building a fresh kit for it? I wonder if the extrusion rate will be more consistent with powder vs pellets.
Just finished a fresh build for PLA. I'll do a nylon build tomorrow.
Btw: Only took me 45 minutes to build the kit. It goes SO much faster with the bolts instead of threaded rods, the CNC'ed uprights, and the milled nipples.
Just got this message on Kickstarter:
何必这么麻烦建这小型的打印丝呢？跟我大批量的进货多好。我是来自中国的有空联系我吧。
Google translate says:
Why should I bother to build small print silk? Purchase large quantities with me much good. I am from China free to contact me.
yes, that is the correct translation.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yuk2KUh8IbA
is this something you guys where looking for? i found this online searching for winder
So I first heard about the kickstarter March 27th, (second day I believe) I immediately backed it... For $1, My reason for not backing a Filastruder at first was that I'm in Canada and the $50 shipping plus the chance of duties just kinda put it over the price I was willing to pay. Also pellets cost more to get here. After finding this thread after seeing the kickstarter I've read through the whole thing, made many notes and started pricing it out, I could probablybuild it for less then $250. Yesterday, I sold my Pebble for $275, and Today I managed to grab a July spot for the Filastruder, I pretty much traded up my Pebble for a Filastruder 
Just Tim, Please don't take as long as Pebble did to ship 
Just Tim, Please don't take as long as Pebble did to ship
I already have a pile of parts - trying to stay ahead of the promised ship dates!
Any word on the Nylon flour?
Okay, so I finally got my 'struder to make filament (if not without various wrenches and clamps attached) , however it is too thin due to motor speeds. How can I slow down the motor? (Btw I'm trying to make 3mm filament, so that might affect things.)
Okay, so I finally got my 'struder to make filament (if not without various wrenches and clamps attached) , however it is too thin due to motor speeds. How can I slow down the motor? (Btw I'm trying to make 3mm filament, so that might affect things.)
Motor speeds do not signifigantly impact diameter. Temperature and die size do. You should drop temperature and/or redrill bigger.
What various clamps and wrenches are you using? You shouldn't need any...
knarf2011 wrote:Okay, so I finally got my 'struder to make filament (if not without various wrenches and clamps attached) , however it is too thin due to motor speeds. How can I slow down the motor? (Btw I'm trying to make 3mm filament, so that might affect things.)
Motor speeds do not signifigantly impact diameter. Temperature and die size do. You should drop temperature and/or redrill bigger.
What various clamps and wrenches are you using? You shouldn't need any...
I use a clamp to keep it from vibrating and a rusty old wrench to keep the pipe from turning.
elmoret wrote:knarf2011 wrote:Okay, so I finally got my 'struder to make filament (if not without various wrenches and clamps attached) , however it is too thin due to motor speeds. How can I slow down the motor? (Btw I'm trying to make 3mm filament, so that might affect things.)
Motor speeds do not signifigantly impact diameter. Temperature and die size do. You should drop temperature and/or redrill bigger.
What various clamps and wrenches are you using? You shouldn't need any...
I use a clamp to keep it from vibrating and a rusty old wrench to keep the pipe from turning.
Not sure where you're applying a clamp or whether it's needed, and if the pipe is turning it means you didn't tighten it enough, or you're starting the motor before the plastic has had time to soften.
What size drill bit did you use to drill the nozzle?
knarf2011 wrote:elmoret wrote:Motor speeds do not signifigantly impact diameter. Temperature and die size do. You should drop temperature and/or redrill bigger.
What various clamps and wrenches are you using? You shouldn't need any...
I use a clamp to keep it from vibrating and a rusty old wrench to keep the pipe from turning.
Not sure where you're applying a clamp or whether it's needed, and if the pipe is turning it means you didn't tighten it enough, or you're starting the motor before the plastic has had time to soften.
What size drill bit did you use to drill the nozzle?
3mm
the clamp is on the base
3mm
the clamp is on the base
3mm is too big actually, if you're still getting filament too small you must be at a really high temperature. What temperature do you have the PID set to? Typically for 3mm filament I drill at 2.65mm or 3.0mm. You're extruding ABS, right?
I've never needed a clamp on the base...
knarf2011 wrote:3mm
the clamp is on the base3mm is too big actually, if you're still getting filament too small you must be at a really high temperature. What temperature do you have the PID set to? Typically for 3mm filament I drill at 2.65mm or 3.0mm. You're extruding ABS, right?
I've never needed a clamp on the base...
ABS at 190 degrees C.
elmoret wrote:knarf2011 wrote:3mm
the clamp is on the base3mm is too big actually, if you're still getting filament too small you must be at a really high temperature. What temperature do you have the PID set to? Typically for 3mm filament I drill at 2.65mm or 3.0mm. You're extruding ABS, right?
I've never needed a clamp on the base...
ABS at 190 degrees C.
Some parts are thick enough, but it's inconsistent. I suppose i should try a lower temp, as the thicker parts seem to represent the times when the temp was lower (I don't know why, it just lowered at seemingly random moments and then went back up).
Some parts are thick enough, but it's inconsistent. I suppose i should try a lower temp, as the thicker parts seem to represent the times when the temp was lower (I don't know why, it just lowered at seemingly random moments and then went back up).
190 is too hot, and if the temperature is swinging, you need to auto-tune the PID.
knarf2011 wrote:Some parts are thick enough, but it's inconsistent. I suppose i should try a lower temp, as the thicker parts seem to represent the times when the temp was lower (I don't know why, it just lowered at seemingly random moments and then went back up).
190 is too hot, and if the temperature is swinging, you need to auto-tune the PID.
What temp would you normally use?
How do you autotune the PID?
170C. There's instructions in this thread for autotuning.
EDIT - Found em:
I don't have it in front of me to double check, but I think you press and hold set 5 seconds,, tap it a few times until ATU comes up, change to 0001, keep hitting set until it dumps you back to normal screen, AT led will blink during the process. I think it took ~5 minutes or so.
Manual:
http://www.fmfranklin.com.au/products/d … 00inst.pdf
There's instructions in this thread for autotuning.
Can you please put them in the FAQ on Kickstarter? Things are kind of hard to find in the thread, and the "autotuning" seems important enough to be worthy of the FAQ.
elmoret wrote:There's instructions in this thread for autotuning.
Can you please put them in the FAQ on Kickstarter? Things are kind of hard to find in the thread, and the "autotuning" seems important enough to be worthy of the FAQ.
They don't belong in the FAQ on Kickstarter especially because the Kickstarter version uses a different controller, since everyone wanted universal power. The instructions belong in the instruction manual, and are in the Kickstarter version of the instructions which is not released yet.
The beta version of the instructions specifically say: "Autotuning the PID is a good idea. Contact me if you need help with this."
knarf2011 wrote:elmoret wrote:There's instructions in this thread for autotuning.
Can you please put them in the FAQ on Kickstarter? Things are kind of hard to find in the thread, and the "autotuning" seems important enough to be worthy of the FAQ.
They don't belong in the FAQ on Kickstarter especially because the Kickstarter version uses a different controller, since everyone wanted universal power. The instructions belong in the instruction manual, and are in the Kickstarter version of the instructions which is not released yet.
The beta version of the instructions specifically say: "Autotuning the PID is a good idea. Contact me if you need help with this."
What is the extrusion rate at 170C for 3mm ABS ?
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