[ Closed ] Filament Extruder - Convert pellets to filament (Page 43 of 58)

^ um wow. I was just sharing my extruder design, not stepping on Tim's post to sell it.......

Yeah that's bad form IMO, start your own thread if you're trying to sell an extruder, don't jump into someone else's hard work a couple days before a kickstarter is launched.

I'm sorry. I did not mean to ruin anyone's business. I deleted that post. I ask those who responded to that post to delete it. I intend to help those who can not find the parts needed.
Thanks!

I have started a blog on building my version of a filament extruder.  It is based upon the work of Filabot, Lyman and Tim's work.  The same type of machine.  I have a compete woodworking and metal working shop but what I wanted to do is create one that can be completed in most peoples garage.  So no slicing of pipes or custom plastic parts to make.  Oh there is one plastic part - a 2 liter bottle and you will have to empty it yourself. The bottle will hold 1320 grams of pellets and so should work fine for holding 1Kg of pellets for conversion.  I will also be putting up a BOM once I have it working but it makes no sense to post something that would be changing until it is done.  I also want to build the Lyman Filament winder and have some ideas as to how to link the two units so that it would take care of its self.  I also want to setup a camera to watch it work so that I can see what the mice in the shop are doing.

http://www.teeterconsulting.com/

I also do not want to detract from the work that Tim is doing and I completely support the work that he has done and thank him for that effort.

Bob Teeter

I'm open to feedback, but I think it would be best if we kept discussion here limited to the Filastruder, to keep things a bit more organized and manageable.... kinda like how the smoothing stations have had their own threads int he projects sub-forum.

Is the heater wire connected to PID terminal 4 or 5? It should be terminal 4, being connected to terminal 5 would cause this behavior and was a mistake in an earlier revision of the instructions.

We also found out that sometimes the wire colors are incorrect in the wall voltage wiring - this is a mistake by the power brick's manufacturer. Release versions run completely on low voltage, so the wall voltage side will not be touched.

We will now try Terminal 4! Thanks for replying so quickly!

Go ahead and start another thread.  I still want to see it.

It's so funny to me to see people "invent" things that are used in industry every day.  When I started designing I would often "invent" solutions to a problem we were having and present them to the senior designers only to have them laugh at me and say "Hey look Metzel invented a such and such" which was already readily available but I was blissfully unaware.  Instead of discouraging me it always gave me confidence that I could reinvent something that was nearly identical to the working accepted solution without seeing it first. 

This is called a straightener and is place in line at the beginning of each punch press to remove the curvature from a coil of steel as it's being fed into a press.

They asked for some tweaks - more info in the biography, details on what comes in the kit, that sort of thing. I've resubmitted for final approval. They took about 48 hours to get back to me last time, so it should be soon!

Just got my beta kit.  Thanks Tim!  Errr... ummm.  My Robo 3D is not here yet, so I am going to CNC a hopper out of aluminum and maybe plastic.  Can someone check the temp of the iron pipe near the hopper.  If you put  drop of water on it, does it boil off (100C).  The business end of the hopper around the auger will be aluminum to deal with the stresses of pushing pellets out of the way. Wondering if I an get away with an HDPE spacer just above the iron pipe, connecting to the funnel.  BTW, an ABS/Styrene 3" Drain End Cap is a shoe in for the funnel.  Just needs a hole.

On the V2 hopper, there is a lip circled in yellow (insert tt) h__p://s22.postimg.org/z9r1p9hmp/hopper1.jpg  What is the purpose?  If I cut the 1.5" slot in the pipe at the centerline, that lip won't be contacting the iron pipe.  Should I make the slot in the iron pipe match the cross section of the hopper (make the slot more shallow)?

Thanks in advance.