[ Closed ] Filament Extruder - Convert pellets to filament (Page 4 of 58)

Also, I can check the voltage on the motors once I am at work. My tools are all in my office.

Speaking of the instructions can you clarify what the white extension cord was supposed to be for? I did my own wiring job because I couldn't understand why you included that...

The white cord was to give you something to plug the AC adapter into. The idea was to have a single connection to the wall outlet, by cutting the white cord and using the female end.

The next power supply simplifies things, and doesn't use a plug. So that should be easier in future kits!

That makes more sense now.

So any ideas on colorant? Cause I really want some tie-die filament.

I got the clear from an old project with work. I haven't really printed much with it yet other than a simple test. I'll know on Monday how good it actually is.

I've not received my kit yet: should I print the hopper and case, or should I wait until the dust settles and some new designs have evolved?

I have done about ten hours of extrusion now. I want to go ahead and dissasemble to inspect the pipe nipples for wear. What is the best way to take this thing apart? Should it be warm to remove the auger? Do I need to extrude what is left in the auger first?

So I took the auger out and as you can see in the picture I am still getting some metal wear mixing in with the plastic. So my thoughts are that either the auger is slightly bent which is causing it to rub against the side of the nipple or the plastic is to abrasive against the internals.

If the auger is bent my only thoughts are that I could cut about an inch or so off of it and see what happens.  Other than that I think am going to switch to the stainless nipples (now I just need to find some that will work).

Hmm. It's kind of hard to see on my phone, but that does look pretty bad. I used to get one spec every 20-30 feet.

It's possible the auger got bent when I cut it. You could cut it two inches shorter, and slide the thrust bearing flange in as far as it will go. You will probably need the assembly to be hot to put the auger in.

Whenver I slice the hopper in slic3r, it looks like it is not keeping the hopper hollow.  I have this same issue when I try to cut the companion cube storage box on thingiverse.  Am I missing a setting somewhere?

Got the electronics enclosure printed out.

slic3r .3mm, 3 shells, 20% infill, glass bed + hairpray, octave glow in the dark white/green (first print with this filament). This is the longest horizontal surface i've printed yet.

The front left and back right corners lifted a fair amount and I got 2 corners cracks on one of the side. Does the fan mod help with this?

Totally useable though!

I cut off two inches and cleaned up the auger with a wire brush while I was at it. I noticed that there is some scoring (see picture) right where it would have lined up with the end of one of the pipe nipples. This also occurred on the end closer to the motor where it met the end of the pipe nipple. 

I guess this could have to do with how well the motor was lined up with the bit...guess we won't need to go to stainless since the shavings are obviously not coming from the pipe nipples.