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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filastruder → Filastruder v1.3 Help
I just finished assembling my filastruder I let it warm up to 185 c and after waited 20 more minutes until I started the motor but the barel starts to twist. I tightened it and now the motor will run but it makes a lot of noise and starts to jam any ideas what might be the problem?
I'm new here too but from everything I have read and seen in my very short time using it, it sounds like the plastic is not fully melted, down the pipe. The temp varies depending on how you have the thermocouple stuck to the nozzle, so might try turning up the temp and waiting longer before starting.
Also I would check that the dowel by the motor has not rotated around the socket. (Meaning the motor is turning and the dowel pin is not on the flat of the shaft anymore)
Motor making noise and jamming is not good! Did the assembly rotate freely during assembly?
Possible causes:
Debris blocking/clogging the nozzle
Improper assembly
Shaft coupling slipping
I just finished assembling my filastruder I let it warm up to 185 c and after waited 20 more minutes until I started the motor but the barel starts to twist. I tightened it and now the motor will run but it makes a lot of noise and starts to jam any ideas what might be the problem?
Is your motor turning the wrong way? The auger should turn clockwise looking from the nozzle end of the Filastruder.
Ben
The auger is actually turning the right way. Tim the auger rotated freely during the assembly what started making the motor jam is the twisting of the barrel also my dowel pin came off of the flat side but its stuck and the socket still spins. I will try setting the temp higher and tighting the barrel I will post some pictures later on.
If the dowel pin came off, it sounds like perhaps it wasn't wrapped in tape? Some pictures will help.
Usually a jam causes twisting, not the other way around. The barrel rotating can't cause the motor to stall, but something stalling the motor will definitely produce enough torque to rotate the barrel.
I had the dowel pin wrapped but with electrical tape will that work? What will usually make the motor stall a clog?
I haven't tried electrical tape, but it should be fine if used properly. The socket should be a very snug fit on the motor shaft after wrapping with tape.
A clog will make the motor stall, yes - or debris, or incorrect temperature for the polymer being extruded.
Has any extrusion happened at all?
I just took mine apart while waiting on a new dowel pin, and the socket corners were rounded off on the inside when the dowel pin came loose and got crushed (stuck on the round side, not the flat). All four corners are rounded, going to have to go to the hardware store and get another socket. Might check if yours did the same.
Also, the wood that stops the thrust bearing now has the thrust bearing embedded into it. So may to have to make a new piece for there too. I don't know if it will impede operation like it is, the outer washer will still spin. So that's another thing you might want to check.
If the outer washer still spins, you're good to go. You could flip the piece over if you like. That looks like more damage than I've seen before, though. I'm changing to a thrust plate that has a laminate finish to hopefully prevent that.
I can mail you a socket free of charge if you like, just PM me.
Yeah, I'm going to try it like it is first and flip it if needed. Socket would be great, PM sent.
Yes, I was actually able to extrude almost 2 ft. before the motor started jamming I will unclog it and upload a pic. My dowel pin is also jammed in the socket on the round side.
I cleaned the barell and taped the dowel with a different tape. I am heating the filastruder up to see if that will fix the issue here are the pics.
That is not how the tape is supposed to be. It's not going to work that way. On my phone now, I'll explain once I get near a computer.
Besides the tape, things look good.
The motor shaft/socket interface is designed to be a clearance fit to allow for misalignment of the feed screw (auger) and motor shaft. The instructions say:
13.) Place the 3/32” dowel pin on the center of the motor flat. This forms the key for the motor/auger coupling. Wrap 2-3 times with tape to hold in place.
14.) Slide the hex socket onto the motor shaft.
The purpose of the tape is not only to hold the pin in place, but to fill that clearance fit in a compliant fashion. A few wraps of tape result in a snug fit, like so:
I actually had to lightly tap the socket on for it to bottom out, and it is so snug from the 2-3 wraps of tape that there is no play/looseness by hand (there is still tolerance for a couple degrees of misalignment, but you can't feel this by hand). That is proper installation.
Tim I tried it the way that you showed me but I did not have any luck the dowel would still move out of place. I ended up putting another socket that I have and it works without any tape. Also my barell moved but it is extruding fine now. thanks for the help guys I will just have to tinker with it now.
Great to hear!
To handle the barrel tightening, remove the 4 main bolts, run the motor in reverse, and reinstall the 4 main bolts.
Also make sure you're letting it heat soak (15 minutes after getting to temperature).
I ran the motor in reverse earlier but I did not remove the screws. Thanks for the advice Tim. This motor is very impressive compared to the windshield wiper motors.
Greetings All,
I seem to be having an issue similar the above mentioned problems, however i have tried the suggestions above with no luck.
I set up my filastruder as per 1.3 instructions and then after letting it heat it up, i switched the motor on, it extruded about 50cm of filament before the nipple started to rotate clockwise and the motor sounded under strain. i also noticed that the board the motor was mounted on was being pushed backwards away from the nozzle end.
It is not a problem with the shaft/motor pin/socket as that is still intact and installed tape as per the instructions.
My thoughts are that the auger is stuck in the nipple causing the nipple to rotate.
I tried holding the nipple with a wrench while running the motor clockwise and anticlockwise, this worked for a few seconds with the auger rotating, but while it did this, i noticed that the thrust bearing is actually moving away(reverse motor direction) and towards (Correct forward motor direction) to wooden flange. The results are as per pics.
I disassembled the system and i see that i cannot remove the auger from the nipple.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
I also noticed that the board the motor was mounted on was being pushed backwards away from the nozzle end. I have had the same Issue. I was thinking of adding a support from the motor board to the flange board. The nipple also started to move at the start until my washer and dowel pins gave out. I have not got my Filastruder running because I havent had any time, but when I do ill post a pic. Can you let me know if you figure out what was causing the issue when you get your filastruder running.
I set up my filastruder as per 1.3 instructions and then after letting it heat it up, i switched the motor on, it extruded about 50cm of filament before the nipple started to rotate clockwise and the motor sounded under strain. i also noticed that the board the motor was mounted on was being pushed backwards away from the nozzle end.
Step 9 of the instructions explicitly states:
Slide the auger so that the thrust bearing is compressed during the future assembly steps.
If the thrust bearing is compressed, it will handle the thrust force from the pressurization of the polymer that is acting to push the feedscrew in the direction you describe.
I was thinking of adding a support from the motor board to the flange board.
Do NOT do this, the bearings in the motor are not rated for thrust loading. That is the whole point of the thrust bearing.
If the boards are being pushed apart then you did not assemble correctly (specifically, you did not follow step 9), and you may have bent the feedscrew/barrel as a result.
i noticed that the thrust bearing is actually moving away(reverse motor direction) and towards (Correct forward motor direction) to wooden flange. The results are as per pics.
Of course it is, since in operation the feedscrew only experiences loading in one direction axially, so there is only one thrust bearing present. By running the motor in reverse, you are loading the feedscrew in a manner it was never designed to experience.
I will look at the step 9 again Tim. I was thinking something like this.
I will look at the step 9 again Tim. I was thinking something like this.
The brace is fine to install, but it cannot carry any load - if it is, you are putting the motor bearings in compression, which they are not rated for.
There is no reason for that brace the way the Filastruder is designed. The motor generates pure torque, and only needs to be constrained at the base.
The thrust bearing was most definitely compressed against the wooden flange, please see attached picture of the indent on the flange. I checked this several times before starting up.
so should i now re-assemble the system with the thrust bearing compressed and see what happens?
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