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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → Mk5 Extruder: New and Improved!
I don't see the difference in the two bodies, which one should be used for an E3D hotend?
The revision replaced the first file, so you won't see the old version. If you really want to compare, see the Sketchup screenshot on the first page vs the current STL to see the tabs moved wider.
I still want to see a waffle mix extruder kthxbai~
Krythis wrote:I don't see the difference in the two bodies, which one should be used for an E3D hotend?
The revision replaced the first file, so you won't see the old version. If you really want to compare, see the Sketchup screenshot on the first page vs the current STL to see the tabs moved wider.
I mean the difference between the regular body and the 'bevel_variant_by_2n2r5' version. I ended up printing the regular version and it is working great with the new 'MG Plus Hot End' I bought off Ebay until my E3D comes in. Great replacement for the SD hotend btw.
Where did you pick up you M3 x 10mm bolt
Where did you pick up you M3 x 10mm bolt
All screws I used came from the original acrylic jigsaw. If you need anything additional http://www.mcmaster.com is always a good source.
Excellent. I might have time to try mine out tonight!
I highly recommend building up a supply of various length M3 bolts. I recently did so from my local bolt supplier and it has come in very handy.
Yes, I see I need to grab a short one for the locking arm.
hello everybody, i'm a beginner solidoodler 
As I understood while reading the forum, a set of excellent Lawsy engineering work is good to have as a spare in case of extruder problems and/or replace the hot end with something better than the stock one.
Just some questions that comes up to my mind:
- is it OK to print it with ABS? 50% infill is OK?
- I'd like to check measurements and tolerances after printing the parts as I'm still tweaking the printer, but Repetier just displays STL files without any chance to gather dimensions like in Autocad for example. What software can I use?
- Is it correct that you don't need any other hardware than stock mount nuts and bolts? I'll follow anyway Lawsy's advice to collect various M3 bolts though I still have to find a good hardware store in Dublin that it is not a wholesaler.
- What are the benefits of a different hot end like the E3D or J-head? Higher temperature? Less prone to clogging? Happy to read and learn more if you have any articles or links.
Thanks to all
Nick
Hi Nick and welcome,
In reference to your questions:
1. 50% is perfect
2. At this stage if your calibration is slightly out, you can still use the printed mk5. If it is too small, wrap some tape around the hot end body to make it snug. If it is too big, you can sand/file back the extruder until it squeezes in.
3. It's been so long since I used stock components but I think this still uses stock hardware only. There are a few screws from the acrylic jigsaw that aren't required so there should be enough.
4. Both of the benefits you have listed should be correct. The solidoodle heating resistors are questionable also, so eliminating them would be preferable.
Thank you very much Lawsy for the reply.
I managed to get the printer calibrated, had some issue with circles that had an oval shape, but solved it after a trial and error Y-axis belts tune up. There are still some quality issues especially at .1mm layer height but I will seek some help in another topic.
I'll try to print the parts and let you know about the results.
Only one more question: is OK to print the part at .3mm layer height or is preferable a higher resolution?
Nick
I haven't tried 0.3 but I can confirm 0.25.
On paper it should be ok.
How does the ceramic heater work for you? Did you have to do major modification to get it in and working properly?
So I just installed this with my new E3D and there is not enough clearance to allow for the cooling fins. They are hitting the x-axis carriage and it is causing the hotend to sit at an angle.
The hotend needs to mount about 2mm further towards the front of the machine to give the proper clearance. Anybody else notice this?
Mine is snug, but doesn't appear to be at an angle.
Mine is snug, but doesn't appear to be at an angle.
Are you using it with an E3D hotend?
Works beautifully with my replace carriages...
Krythis wrote:Mine is snug, but doesn't appear to be at an angle.
Are you using it with an E3D hotend?
Yea
Works beautifully with my replace carriages...
They are on my list of things to print.
I printed and installed Mk5 and my first print printed fine. On the following two print jobs the plastic would get pushed out the front or back right after feeder drive and before it entered the peek. I feel that the lack of a guide between the feeder drive and the peek is the cause but then this would be a more common problem. The first 30 to 40 layers print fine. Any ideas?
ok, so i'm about to print this. What would be considered 'high infill'? I'm currently calibrated in a .2mm layer height and 3 parameters. All i need are the infill settings and i'll hit 'print'.
thanks
-John
ok, so i'm about to print this. What would be considered 'high infill'? I'm currently calibrated in a .2mm layer height and 3 parameters. All i need are the infill settings and i'll hit 'print'.
thanks
-John
John,
40-50% should be fine. The default is 20% which will work 90% of the time. For high strength parts, the highest you need to go is generally around 50%
I installed Lawsy's Mk5 and got the same issues LdyMox and 2n2whatever had - (Standard SD3 extruder not lining up quite right with feed wheels and filament kinking between feed wheels and extruder. So, it looks lke 2N2whatever (sorry) made a mod that takes care of the alignment issue, I'm hoping he added a short section of guide between the wheels and extruder to prevent that problem like his PTFE tubing did.
Also, Lawsy, my tensioner arm is giving me trouble. Seems the little bolt head wants to pull through the ears in the assy and escape. No, its really not tightened up that much at all, it just looks like the material (I used ABS) is kinda thin right there where the bolt capture is. But I can see how it could be beefed up a bit, no sweat. Perhaps the cavity that the bolt head settles into could be a little bit cut out toward the tensioner arm, like a detent, so the head would not come out of its hole without some linear relaxation of the tensioner sufficient to let the bolt head come up, then out, of its detent. Seems it wants to slip right out of the assembly when you swing the bolt up to release the tensioner arm, I'd rather it stayed in the assy. Would it help to replace the socket head screw with a hex head (wider head)?
The tensioner arm itself wants to let the tensioner bolt and spring assy slide off the end of the tensioner arm. I've seen tensioners in other applications that have little ears kicking up at the very end of the fork to discourage such casual dislocations.
I'd be happy to draw it out with your SKP if you like, unless someone prefers another approach.
I really like the work you guys do, very cool stuff, indeed. I learn a lot just looking at your work
So this will be compatible with my E3D V5?
Both of my hotends have plugged and I think both of my peeks are shot. I am waiting for my E3D to arrive so I can print again.
So I just installed this with my new E3D and there is not enough clearance to allow for the cooling fins. They are hitting the x-axis carriage and it is causing the hotend to sit at an angle.
The hotend needs to mount about 2mm further towards the front of the machine to give the proper clearance. Anybody else notice this?
Yep I have the same thing going on and your right about 2mm forward would totally solve the problem.
At first it doesn't appear to cause any problems as far as print quality but upon further inspection I think it might.
The forward edge of every line printed seems to have tiny little waves in it and I believe this to cause poor adhesion between layers.
Other than that it is a great piece of design work so I say thank you to lawsy for his time and dedication.
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