Printable x and y carriage replacements (Level 2 - Techie Consumer) (Page 7 of 11)

I notice that the holes for the rods in the left and right carriages are open at the back, just like the stock ones.  Would it not be better to use slightly shorter rods, and have solid caps over their ends (part of the left/right carriages)?  This would work here because you can pull the carriages off to remove your rods.  Length tolerances don't matter much either and long as the rods are snug in the holes and not too long.

Otherwise you propose using a screw to hold the rods in place?  (I have a printed copy of the left carriage in my hand)

I've finally successfully printed the carriages.  What extra hardware will I need beyond what comes from the old parts?  I remember discussion about needing M3-50's and that the belt screws may be too long.  Would someone please clarify?

Edit: The extra holes on the bottom of the x-carriage seem unsymmetrical for a later fan addition - is this normal?

Thanks

I want to check out the X carriage that you mentioned but that thingiverse link gives me a "not found" message - if the thing was taken down, do you still have the stl by chance that you could post here?

Ha - got it now - that one extra period in the link makes all the difference in the world!

(edit: I guess I could have searched by the thing number too...)

Where I live, if I order from Mcmaster by 12:00 noon, I will get the shipment by 1:30 PM.  Also, if I order before 6:00 PM, I will get it the next morning before 10:00 AM.  Mcmaster is awesome in general, but even better if you live close to one of their warehouses.

+1 on this configuration. Sorry lawsy, but the 3-piece wasn't fitting well for me either. I did my best!! This other cable-tie assembly single-piece job is solid and really quick to assemble, has plenty of room for the tensioning bolt (one side only), and doesn't need the super-long mounting bolts. You do have to watch out for the x-stop: I bent the switch lever rather a lot to get it to trigger before the two carriages contacted, but you don't lose any useful printing area as a result of the offset. I think I'll be updating the right/idler y-carriage to push the switch out a bit further for the future.

I'm just trying to hammer out the X belt then I'm back up and running. The X carriage was hard to move and appeared to slightly bend the rods until I put the Y belts on. Now the X travles SUPER smooth, whereas I need to use force to move the Y...Maybe adding the X belt will fix this.

It's in general not the best idea. The parts will definitely creep, possibly melt at the temperatures imposed on them by things like the x-motor. If you're desperate you could as a temporary measure, but the level of desperation I'm thinking of involves the printer not functioning so you'd have a bit of a catch-22 to deal with first.

I'd suggest a roll of ABS just for these kind of things is no bad thing to own...

This maybe my next upgrade as I can't seem to escape Y-axis shift with my SD2 of late, at best I can delay it a few prints.

I could, but I am not really going that fast to begin with. Just standard speeds. Plus this has occured recently after no issues with it for a year on the Y-axis shift. I assume wear and tear.

Was precisely the point I was looking to troubleshoot Its not the speed your running at, its rather, reducing the speed reduces the forces acting on the 'slop' on the bushings... This will enable you to determine if its binding against the rail or the busings (which are 'self-centering' but often bind themselves at odd angles - and the further up or down the Y-axis you are the more issues it poses...)

Anyway... sounds like you have a plan and will execute that.. so carry on

Adrian, which part are the busings? And as a side note the Y-axis shift seems to more likley happen the larger the object is along the X axis AKA takes up more of the print bed.