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Topic: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

Hi everyone,

standing on the shoulders of others here, as seen in recent threads, the threaded rod that causes so many problems with banding can be changed very easily and cheaply. Total cost under $10.

Further info:
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2213/mod … -z-layers/

I've made some simple printed parts that make changing the standard threaded rod to an accurate one cheap and simple. Credit to meshmoth, as I have derived one of the parts from their design.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:85258

http://thingiverse-production.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/81/b9/f1/68/2a/01_assembly_display_large.jpg

http://thingiverse-production.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/a1/8f/7b/ef/ea/02_results_preview_featured.jpg

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Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

Looks good Lawsy!

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Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

Looks very good! Do you think you could do an idiot-proof explanation on how to do some of these steps (step 4 in particular and the part about updating the EEPROM settings)? I have this friend, see, and I don't want him to mess up his machine when he attempts this.

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Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

Yeah I got a friend too smile

SD2 - Glass Bed, Fans on PCB and Y motor, Custom enclosure
Slicer - Simplify3D

5 (edited by ysb 2013-05-07 18:25:58)

Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

great.. your are great lawsy big_smile i hope this will correct my last 2 inchs of wobble...

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Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

It says "Don't forget to update the steps per mm for the Z stepper in the EEPROM settings / firmware!" I know where you do this in repetier-host. But what value do you use for such a mod?

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Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

So I just bought my 5mm rod. Cut to 200MM and 2 5MM nuts all for $3

But man the rod looks so thin compared to the current one.

No coupler local. So I guess have to make a coupler. any links?

SD2 owner- Surestepr, filament holder,QUBD servo and heaters, glass bed
Print for fun and for parts for my sports cars
current car is 88 IROC

8 (edited by ysb 2013-05-07 20:05:33)

Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:67863

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:65988

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18213

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Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

or this
P.P.S. My 3d-printed coupler attached. Use 6 M3 screws to assemble it. No nuts necessary - M3 taps all the way into it.

Attachment icon rod_mount.stl [ 3D Preview ] 36.33 kb, 20 downloads since 2013-04-29

SD2 owner- Surestepr, filament holder,QUBD servo and heaters, glass bed
Print for fun and for parts for my sports cars
current car is 88 IROC

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Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

I will post up detailed instruction as requested when time permits. As for the calibration, I used a dial gauge and followed the exact same process as Ian's blog for extruder calibration.

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Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

I wish SD hadn't changed the overall design so much when they went to the aluminum platform.  The four holes are in the top surface of the platform carriage, but they just welded a nut to the bottom side of it instead of using the four hole connection that allows the nut hugger to grip.

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Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

wilheldp wrote:

I wish SD hadn't changed the overall design so much when they went to the aluminum platform.  The four holes are in the top surface of the platform carriage, but they just welded a nut to the bottom side of it instead of using the four hole connection that allows the nut hugger to grip.

Welded?! roll

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Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

Is there a non metric equivalent to the 5mm threaded rod? My Lowes does not carry metric Rods.

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Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

3/16 and 7/32 would be the closest.  I don't know what sizes they are likely to carry.

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Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

No spring in the nut hugger?

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Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

Works fine without one. I have zero backlash.

Can use a dial gauge to move up and down 10mm back and forth, and it is accurate to 0.01mm.

17 (edited by FatalDischarge 2013-05-08 05:43:27)

Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

Jonathan wrote:

Is there a non metric equivalent to the 5mm threaded rod? My Lowes does not carry metric Rods.

Check your local Fastenal for metric.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products?te … rfqLineId=
or Grainger
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/thread … amp;xi=xi#

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Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

elmoret wrote:
wilheldp wrote:

I wish SD hadn't changed the overall design so much when they went to the aluminum platform.  The four holes are in the top surface of the platform carriage, but they just welded a nut to the bottom side of it instead of using the four hole connection that allows the nut hugger to grip.

Welded?! roll

How about drilling and tapping a short threaded rod as a adapter so that it's 5/16-18 on the outside and M5 on the inside?  You could fasten an adapter like this with loctite onto the existing nut for either an aluminum or wooden bed.

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Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

Have you ever drilled and tapped steel?

I think I'd rather grind the weld off.

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Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

I don't think it's welded. I think it's pressed.
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2308/z-b … minum-bed/

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Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

The thing I do not like about this solution, is the two nuts. That will increase wear of the rod (a lot more than for 5/16)  and are not really needed for M5. I have tried 2 and 4 mm height nuts as well, and so far it looks they don't introduce any noticeable wobble at all. I ended up with custom 12mm nut, since I already had the nuthugger for custom nuts printed (see my nut replacement thread) and brass available, but for M5 this is also an overkill.
If you really want to be ultra precise with less wobble - M4 or M3 are way to go. Still, M3 definitely needs a tight fitting at the very top, otherwise it will bend sooner or later.
I really think of adding something to hold the rod at the very top and raise the nut a bit more, since that would form a good triangle and stabilize the bed.

22 (edited by Necromant 2013-05-08 08:55:50)

Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

jjcuff1 wrote:

So I just bought my 5mm rod. Cut to 200MM and 2 5MM nuts all for $3

But man the rod looks so thin compared to the current one.

No coupler local. So I guess have to make a coupler. any links?

See my original thread for ABS coupler. Although aluminum one should do better.

Lawsy, please link my thread to the top post, since there are some useful instructions and parts there as well.

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Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

Necromant wrote:

Lawsy, please link my thread to the top post, since there are some useful instructions and parts there as well.

Done.

Your thread was my catalyst for going out and doing the mod. Thank you for your work.

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Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

elmoret wrote:

Have you ever drilled and tapped steel?

I think I'd rather grind the weld off.

I was thinking of something softer like brass, which is what I used to adapt the M3 rod I installed.  The brass I had lying around was a little smaller than 5/16", so I used a smaller nut for the outside and wrapped the nut in a short length of tubing to make it fit snugly in the nut hugger.  With larger brass rod, however, it would be an easy drop-in replacement and an alternative if you preferred solid metal to a printed attachment.

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Re: Eliminate banding: 5mm Theaded Rod Fitment Kit

Jonathan wrote:

Is there a non metric equivalent to the 5mm threaded rod? My Lowes does not carry metric Rods.

before you do that.

read the article regarding Z wobble in this magazine.
http://reprapmagazine.com/issues/1/index.html (article starts on page 29,  but look at the information regarding Z ribbing on page 30/31)


I'm not convinced that the roll threaded M sized rod is any more or less accurate or straight than the rod that solidoodle uses on their machines, but this issue that the article is calling Z ribbing does suggest that you're never going to get perfect prints with an imperial lead screw.