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Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

Yes, the ridge is the edge of pipe nipple, IMG_4169s. You just want the entrance and exit to be smooth, no lip/edge/ridge.

The main base is not missing, it is not included as noted on the website:

User Provided Parts: To save on shipping and total cost,  the following parts are to be provided by the user:

Hopper (STL available in the forum, print on your 3D Printer, or add-on as an option above)
Wooden base (available for a few dollars at your hardware store)

The information about the base is also in the assembly instructions:

Page 7 of the instructions wrote:

User provided parts:
•    One 1”x6”x21” piece of wood (actual dimensions 0.75”x5.75”x21”)

277

Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

elmoret wrote:

Yes, the ridge is the edge of pipe nipple, IMG_4169s. You just want the entrance and exit to be smooth, no lip/edge/ridge.

The main base is not missing, it is not included as noted on the website:

User Provided Parts: To save on shipping and total cost,  the following parts are to be provided by the user:

Hopper (STL available in the forum, print on your 3D Printer, or add-on as an option above)
Wooden base (available for a few dollars at your hardware store)

The information about the base is also in the assembly instructions:

Page 7 of the instructions wrote:

User provided parts:
•    One 1”x6”x21” piece of wood (actual dimensions 0.75”x5.75”x21”)

Thank you!
I'm not whining about this missing part, I understand it would be nonsense to send a piece of wood through post big_smile

I can't understand why there are two measures though!

1”x6”x21”

0.75”x5.75”x21”

278

Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

Lumber dimensions are strange.

http://www.familyhandyman.com/carpentry … s/view-all

SO basically, what is called a '1" x 6" ' actually measures 0.75" x 5.75".

279

Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

elmoret wrote:

Lumber dimensions are strange.

http://www.familyhandyman.com/carpentry … s/view-all

SO basically, what is called a '1" x 6" ' actually measures 0.75" x 5.75".

What the hell! LOL big_smile

Well I guess I'll make it thick as I prefer and large as the wooden parts included in the package, I'm mostly interested in the lenght.
Thank you again!

280

Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

Another little problem: the heater looks too tight to be closed back with the bolt.
Should I leave it open and just proceed?

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281

Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

megmaltese wrote:

Another little problem: the heater looks too tight to be closed back with the bolt.
Should I leave it open and just proceed?

Just hold it tight with your fingers and try to thread the bolt on.  Once it is on it should tighten without problem.  You also may need to use pliers to bring the bolt and the "nut" closer to insert the bolt.

282 (edited by megmaltese 2014-12-11 07:57:48)

Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

I swear this is going to break if I try to tighten more... tried with pliers too.
Hole and bolt are not aligned.
Looks like the external metal band is too short.
Can't understand why they made this so short... there's the bolt to tighten the structure.

283

Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

Actually, it's so short, that even if I tighten it, the bolt still touches the inner metal band and can't reach the hole without breaking.
I guess I'll have to buy a longer tightener (or whatever is the name).

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Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

You definitely don't need to buy anything.

os3dp is correct, you can use pliers to close the band, then start to tighten the bolt.

You may need to use the pliers the compress the heater itself a bit first, if you opened it up too much to install.

285

Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

elmoret wrote:

You definitely don't need to buy anything.

os3dp is correct, you can use pliers to close the band, then start to tighten the bolt.

You may need to use the pliers the compress the heater itself a bit first, if you opened it up too much to install.

The heater looks very tight already, you can see it in the picture.
I will try to tighten the band and do everything but first I'll post more photos of how the situation is.

I must add that the holes in the wooden parts are VERY poorly made, I'll have to remake them.
One in the motor base is completely misaligned, and 2 in the nipples base as well... now, with most of this package coming from China, I imagine the only thing really "made in the USA" are the wooden planks... like... "you had ONE job to do..."

286

Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

There is no need for more pictures, I have installed dozens of bands and am familiar with what you are describing.

The next size up heater band (1.5") is far too large to fit.

If you use pliers on the band clamp to pull it together while threading the bolt (just as os3dp and I have described), it will work.

There was a batch of wooden supports that were supposed to have been scrapped as the jig slipped during production, but they went out accidentally. It should take around 30 seconds to just drill them as needed, if not I can send out a new pair.

287

Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

Tried pliers already, no way.
I'll try tomorrow in a clamp.

288 (edited by megmaltese 2014-12-12 10:04:51)

Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

Elmoret, what happens if I don't put that tightener band at all and scrap it away?
The heater looks very well stuck onto the tube and it doesn't look like it's subject to any mechanical movement at all.

Also, when heated up, it should expand somewhat, increasing adherence to the tube.

289 (edited by megmaltese 2014-12-12 18:15:31)

Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

"Check that roughly ¼” of the feed screw sticks out of the barrel with the thrust bearing compressed."

Is that 1/4 of an inch?

The feed screw is actually INSIDE the barrel by around half inch.
I must say that I didn't screw the barrel into the nipple completely because it became hard after 4/5 rotations... should it be completely screwed in?

On the other hand, in the manual, it looks like there's no space at all between the feeding hole and the threading, while in my barrell I have half inch of additional space.

290 (edited by os3dp 2014-12-12 18:03:13)

Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

megmaltese wrote:

"Check that roughly ¼” of the feed screw sticks out of the barrel with the thrust bearing compressed."

Is that 1/4 of an inch?

Yes, you need 1/4 of an inch sticking out of the nipple, just as described in post number 7 of the following thread:

ww w. soliforum.com/topic/8643/temperature-regulation

Sorry, I can't post links yet. Just turn the above into a normal url.

megmaltese wrote:

The feed screw is actually INSIDE the barrel by around half inch.
I must say that I didn't screw the barrel into the nipple completely because it became hard after 4/5 rotations... should it be completely screwed in?

The nipple does need to be tight.  If it is not tight enough the nipple will rotate and block feeding of pellets.  Be careful not to get the pliers too tight that you squish the nipple.

P.S.  With your heater band, I have assembled two of these kits and BOTH of mine I had to get some help to hold the pliers tight while I inserted the tightening screw.

-os3dp

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Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

os3dp wrote:
megmaltese wrote:

"Check that roughly ¼” of the feed screw sticks out of the barrel with the thrust bearing compressed."

Is that 1/4 of an inch?

Yes, you need 1/4 of an inch sticking out of the nipple, just as described in post number 7 of the following thread:

ww w. soliforum.com/topic/8643/temperature-regulation

Sorry, I can't post links yet. Just turn the above into a normal url.

megmaltese wrote:

The feed screw is actually INSIDE the barrel by around half inch.
I must say that I didn't screw the barrel into the nipple completely because it became hard after 4/5 rotations... should it be completely screwed in?

The nipple does need to be tight.  If it is not tight enough the nipple will rotate and block feeding of pellets.  Be careful not to get the pliers too tight that you squish the nipple.

P.S.  With your heater band, I have assembled two of these kits and BOTH of mine I had to get some help to hold the pliers tight while I inserted the tightening screw.

-os3dp

Thank you for the help!

I edited the previous post with new "findings".

"On the other hand, in the manual, it looks like there's no space at all between the feeding hole and the threading, while in my barrell I have half inch of additional space."

Do you think I will have to cut the final end of the barrel?

292 (edited by megmaltese 2014-12-12 19:18:21)

Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

I see in that picture he also has half inch of free space between the hole and the threading...
I also read that it's more important that the screw comes out of the barrell than the 95mm distance from the end of the screw to the lock...
Sooo... I should move the feeding screw lock back by 15mm (that's the measure needed to make the tip come out of around 1/4 inch)?

293

Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

megmaltese wrote:

I see in that picture he also has half inch of free space between the hole and the threading...
I also read that it's more important that the screw comes out of the barrell than the 95mm distance from the end of the screw to the lock...
Sooo... I should move the feeding screw lock back by 15mm (that's the measure needed to make the tip come out of around 1/4 inch)?

Yes, The 95mm is just a starting point.

-os3dp

294

Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

megmaltese wrote:

On the other hand, in the manual, it looks like there's no space at all between the feeding hole and the threading, while in my barrell I have half inch of additional space.

This was changed to improve the fitment of user-created vertical hoppers. It has no impact on your concerns.

As both os3dp and the instructions say, the 95mm is just a starting point. The position of the shaft collar needs to be adjusted such that the auger sticks out 1/4". You should not be cutting the barrel at all.

I am a bit concerned that you may have assembled it incorrectly if you're that far off, please post a photos of the thrust bearing area when you get a chance so I can see that the spacers are positioned properly.

295 (edited by megmaltese 2014-12-12 21:07:27)

Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

I already disassembled all and I'll move the lock tomorrow (I tightened it too much and can't take it off now without using a clamp... your goddamn inch hex keys!), but I can grant you that the spacers are ok, the structure is pretty easy for me.

I checked all pictures and I think I'm doing it right, and the "missing space" in the feeding screw is exactly that one that is added in the barrel between the threading and the hole.
So my guess is that if now this is the official configuration the lock must not be put at 95mm but at 80mm distance from the rear end of the screw.

296

Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

megmaltese wrote:

your goddamn inch hex keys!

megmaltese.  Could I suggest that you take a little time to read back through the posts you have made and the responses you have received with a self-critical eye.

You are quite unnecessarily aggresive in the choice of language in many places while the guys responding to you are just attempting to help.

I've quoted one example above and if I was on a PC I would have quoted one from virtually every post.

The forum is here as a community feature and also the means by which Tim provides support on his product.  If you have taken any trouble to search and read  through the myriad of posts on this forum you would realise that Tim goes out of his way to solve issues if people have genuine ones.  He has assembled and run many of these machines and gets them tested by the community before he puts changes in the version being sold.  If he says something will work, it will.  People often misinterpret the intrsuctions - As Tim has said on other occasions, this is not designed to be a consumer product.

Just my 2 pence worth...

Masterbatch, ABS and PLA Pellets available for UK and Europe.
http://www.emakershop.com/Seller=1324

297 (edited by megmaltese 2014-12-13 10:58:47)

Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

CraigRK wrote:
megmaltese wrote:

your goddamn inch hex keys!

megmaltese.  Could I suggest that you take a little time to read back through the posts you have made and the responses you have received with a self-critical eye.

You are quite unnecessarily aggresive in the choice of language in many places while the guys responding to you are just attempting to help.

I've quoted one example above and if I was on a PC I would have quoted one from virtually every post.

The forum is here as a community feature and also the means by which Tim provides support on his product.  If you have taken any trouble to search and read  through the myriad of posts on this forum you would realise that Tim goes out of his way to solve issues if people have genuine ones.  He has assembled and run many of these machines and gets them tested by the community before he puts changes in the version being sold.  If he says something will work, it will.  People often misinterpret the intrsuctions - As Tim has said on other occasions, this is not designed to be a consumer product.

Just my 2 pence worth...

Man if you can't spot that's just a joke line I can't do anything about it.
I know there's mm and inch measures, and dealt with this for 30 years already.
I sure am not an expert in DIY, but in example I mounted and had it up and running the printer OneUp in 4 h even though the company declares it needs 8 h to be assembled.

This said, I noticed also Tim looks a bit touchy and seems not to understand when I'm joking or just reporting an info, and he seems to take it as a critique each time.
By nature, I don't make a drama of anything, so if I point out the holes in the wood are out of line, it's just what they are: out of line.
I shouldn't say it?
Also, I just ASKED if it was ok that the base wasn't included, then I pointed out that I completely agree that it doesn't make sense to send a large piece of wood by mail, I thought that with that it was easy to understand that I'm not that AGGRESSIVE or SOPHISTICATED d*ck that wants all and everything.
I am NOT that kind of person.

Concluding: if no joke is admitted/understanded, I will stop, no problem.
If any critic/note/info request is taken as an aggression, I will stop too, no problem.
No wait, I'll still ask info.
On the other side I see that Tim is very helpful and I'm not ashamed to admit it and I want to say thank you for this.
Over.



Now for something completely different that may come helpful to somebody else out there.
About the tightener metal band on the heater: I was tripping around the machine yesterday night when finally my brain turned on and gave me the solution.
Just take it off the heater and screw the bolt in a couple of turns, then slip it back in on the heater and with a few hits with a wrench it will go in smoothly and easily enough, then you can tighten it even more.
Of course do it with the heater ALREADY mounted on the barrel.

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Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

I think it is just some confusion with tone/interpretation of English - I know it is not your first language. Like when you say things like "the base is missing", that would be interpreted to mean that it should have been there - which isn't the case.

Anyway, no harm, no foul. Let's get back to building stuff!

299

Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

elmoret wrote:

I think it is just some confusion with tone/interpretation of English - I know it is not your first language. Like when you say things like "the base is missing", that would be interpreted to mean that it should have been there - which isn't the case.

Anyway, no harm, no foul. Let's get back to building stuff!

Great, dude, glad you understand.

So, here is my actual state of construction.
I moved the feeding screw lock back to 80mm from the rear end, and as you can see with the structure mounted and the screw pushed back everything should be ok.
I think I'm ready to begin with cabling.

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Re: Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files

http://0.media.dorkly.cvcdn.com/36/35/6603dc5a9292104b44c349b85b5aaf7a-5-crazy-fan-theories-that-make-total-sense.jpg

Looks good to me!