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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filastruder → Filastruder Documentation and CAD/STL files
You only need to autotune once. If it is in mode three, it is not actively autotuning (searching). It remembers the results from the last autotune.
If you're getting kinks like that, likely your filament guide is not set up correctly. Photos?
This is odd, it was changing back to mode 2 and autotuning when I was restarting Filastruder. Now the problem is gone.
I'll try to post some pics. The bending stars right after the filament leaves a cm from the nozzle.
BTW, I think I set up everything right, but just to be sure: the fan should blow down, not upwards right?
Fan needs to blow upwards to cool the filament.
You need to guide the filament by hand for the first foot or so to get it started.
Oops, I meant upwards. Yes, it's good then.
I had this problem though. I followed the "Operation Instructions". Checked that all settings are not changed from the default ones described in the manual. Then I let it autotune as described in step 5. I let the temperature reach 180C. Waited few mintutes. The temperature was going between 178 to 181. Looked good. Started the motor. Nipple didn't turn. Good. Heard a slight flexing noise from the plywood, then nothing. I noticed the temeprature (the red text, not the green one) dropping to 147 for some reason. This took around 10 seconds. Then it started going back up. I though this is normal. It reached 180C again shortly. Then I heard noises from the plywood, and before I had time to stop the motor, this happened:
I'm not sure what I did wrong. The only thing I can think of is autotuning didn't run properly, because of the sudden drop of temperature which I described.
Nipple didn't turn.
What do you think was the problem?
First of all, I'm sorry that happened! Must be frustrating. I'm happy to send replacement laser cut parts, get in touch via the Fialstruder website's contact form.
Next, that definitely isn't autotuning's fault. Even with default PID gains, it won't vary more than 5C. A 33C drop indicates an issue with either wiring/connections or how the thermocouple was installed. At anything below 170C (with ABS), the plastic cannot flow, and you should stop the motor for fear of damaging something (as you saw above). I've run about 1600 hours on a Filastruder now, and have never seen that sort of temperature drop. It tells me something strange is going on electrically.
As for why it failed like that, that is indicative of a thrust load - something pushing towards the nozzle. There are two common possibilities:
- The thrust bearing was not compressed during assembly, and/or too many spacers were used resulting in the auger pushing against the motor. You said that wasn't the case, so I doubt this was the problem.
- The machine was overloaded due to the low temperature, and as a result the shaft collar slipped on the auger. This shouldn't happen even under overload if the shaft collar is tightened sufficiently, so when you reassemble check whether the shaft collar slipped, and even if it didn't be sure to tighten it as much as humanly possible.
I superglued the broken plywood back, seems very strong now. No worries. Thanks.
I'm still not sure what caused the temp drop. But let this be a lesson to me to trust the temperature indicated on the screen and stop immediately.
The trust collar indeed slipped and let the feedscrew get deeper and hit the motor. I got lucky my motor hasn't been damaged. The trust collar's screw seemed unthreaded. This is weird, maybe I needed to thread it stronger, or maybe the pressure unthreaded it a little?
Anyway, I'd like some advice on how to clean the nipple/feedscrew.
I've already removed the brass nozzle + coupling and cleaned it from abs by heating it with Filastruder's heater and then using acetone and toothpicks to remove the abs from the threads.
But I'm unable to do the same with the nipple+feedscrew. I guess the area with the melted abs is too large for the Filastruder's heater to handle. Should I get someone to torch it? Put it in acetone?
Thanks in advance dude.
I haven't heard of the shaft collar's screw coming loose if it was properly tightened, but you could try some loctite or a drop of superglue to hold it.
You can put the barrel in acetone to dissolve plastic in the barrel, sure. I'd save torching it for a last resort.
Thanks elmoret.
What's the likelihood of the feedscrew being bent from this?
Its possible, but the feedscrew is stronger than that MDF wood. I'd say not to worry unless it won't rotate under motor power at 180C. If it is bent, you can use the contact form to get in touch for a replacement.
BTW, it is a good idea to wait 5-10 minutes after hitting 180C to be sure the plastic has melted throughout the hot end.
I just reassembled my Filastruder.
I notice that whenever I turn on the motor/fan, the temperature slowly drops to around 172C, then even slower goes back to 180C.
Why is this happening? It seems like there's not enough power to split between both the motor and heater. Maybe the power supply isn't powerful enough?
Maybe this is what caused the temperature drop before, when there was plastic in the nipple and so the motor needed even more power to move the feedscrew?
A bit hesitant to pour pellets after noticing this and my previous experience.
Dropping 8C is fine, and expected. When the fan starts, the nozzle is cooled initially until the PID controller corrects for it. 5C, 8C - that's all ok and expected for initial startup. 33C is not.
Most likely you did the auto tune with the fan off, so it identified parameters that matches the thermal properties of the system with the fan off. The auto tune should be done at operating conditions, not idle. You can also put the fan on a third switch if you want.
If you're worried, bump to 185C before starting the motor.
Dropping 8C is fine, and expected. When the fan starts, the nozzle is cooled initially until the PID controller corrects for it. 5C, 8C - that's all ok and expected for initial startup. 33C is not.
Ah, ok. I understand why it is happening now. Thanks for the info!
Not sure what you mean by initial startup though. It also happens if I turn off the motor+fan and turn it on again.
Most likely you did the auto tune with the fan off, so it identified parameters that matches the thermal properties of the system with the fan off. The auto tune should be done at operating conditions, not idle. You can also put the fan on a third switch if you want.
I did not know this.
By operating conditions do you mean the motor should be running too while autotuning? Or just the fan ?
Initial startup meaning when when you turn the fam+motor on. Typically it is turned on and left on 
I mean motor and fan. PID controllers estimate gains that are compatible with a given set of conditions. If you change a condition (feeding in cold material, turning on a fan), those gains don't match as well.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller
Also no matter how perfect the gains are, turning on the fan will cause a small dip. Its like if someone shoves you while you're walking - you'll stumble and correct.
Thanks for the explanation.
I think this might be the reason I had a temp drop to 147C while feeding pellets previously.
Although I suppose it is possible, I have never observed a 33C drop on startup (and I have probably 200 startup cycles under my belt). I've never seen even a 10C drop. How is your thermocouple mounted? Is it fully inserted in the hole and covered with Kapton?
Hi, I'm searching for Kit Enclosure manual for serial number 1401. Can anyone help?
Already responded to your email. The documentation is provided on the product page.
tell me how to connect the wires to the temperature controller, to the fan, the main/motor and to the hot end. Is there an instruction about that somewhere?
In the first post of this thread.
ok, I don't understand it from pdf and I don't see there electrical instruction for enclosure kit
The electrical instructions are the same for the enclosure.
Hello,
I just received my filastruder kit the other day. I'm having difficulty tightening the flanges together with the auger already placed into position. Is the shaft collar on the auger supposed to make contact with the inside of the flange? Also, I only recieved 5 total nylon brushings (4 black, 1 white), the dropbox file of included said that a toal of 9 were included. Is this correct for my model? & if so the PDF says to use the black spacers only for models 1146 and under on the hex nuts when attaching the flanges, where do the black spacers I have go? My serial number is 1444.
Thank You
Hello,
I just received my filastruder kit the other day. I'm having difficulty tightening the flanges together with the auger already placed into position. Is the shaft collar on the auger supposed to make contact with the inside of the flange?
No. The instructions say there is to be some axial play:
Axial movement of 2-3cm is normal.
Also, I only recieved 5 total nylon brushings (4 black, 1 white), the dropbox file of included said that a toal of 9 were included. Is this correct for my model? & if so the PDF says to use the black spacers only for models 1146 and under on the hex nuts when attaching the flanges, where do the black spacers I have go? My serial number is 1444.
This instructions cover this too.
7.) Lay out 4 main bolts, put a washer on each. If your serial number is 1146 or less, put on a black spacer too.
8.) Slide bolts through the flange, then put a black spacer on each bolt, then slide through the wooden support, and then the flange. The flat side of the flange faces the wooden support.
So if your serial is over 1146, you only need 4 black spacers, and they mount between the wooden upright and the flange towards the motor.
With only 1 black spacer on each bolt, the nut on the opposing side runs out of threading before the flanges are actually tightened. I was trying to upload photos so you can see what problem i'm facing, but apparently I'm not competent enough to do so lol
Hello,
I just recieved my Filastruder and started to build it.
Now i have a question/problem: the instructions say
Check that roughly ¼” of the feed screw sticks out of the barrel with the thrust bearing compressed.
How shuld the thrust bearing being compressed?
It's on the "wrong" side of the flange.
As I'm not an native english speaker I suppose I missunderstood something...
Could someone please help me?
Thank you and sorry for the typo's!
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