New printer Monoprice ultimate maker (Page 1 of 4)

I want one too! Not that I don't have enough printer, just want one for collection. Where did you buy it and how much?

Very good deal, very nice, no wonder you "did it again", it is hard to resist. I will keep eye on MonoPrice ebay store from now on.

I know that guy in Newtonville Mass, and watching his list on ebay for a while, but not sure if flash forge creators worth that much money. It is a lot smaller build volume than ultimate maker, and the machine does not look as elegant as ultimate maker. Not to mention my motivation of buying ultimate maker because it is monoprice brand model that I don't currently own.

Plus he charge $50 for shipping even if I drive over to pick up. They do have a different set of printer not sale on ebay but available for pick up in Newtonville, they claim those are customer return that are almost new and will charge a lot more (you can also find this set of sale in craigslist).

I was contemplating one of the Folder tech deltas but decided on the monoprice only about $ 50 more and it is a pre built   kit.

I Ike my mini but wish it was tuly open source.

Now i am thinking upgrading the new one to a bond tech extruder  we will see.

Wise decision. I don't like delta printer at all. It is fun to watch it printing sometimes, but it requires auto-leveling which I hated. Have to clean the print bed every time! Otherwise the auto-leveling will be off and you have to do it again. If the nozzle is oozing filament, you will have to do it again, and have to clean the bed to remove the previously oozed plastics. I don't really want to watch it auto-leveling and first layer print and then leave. All my other non-delta printer use manual leveling and only need small adjustment once a month or even less.

I heard the ultimate have high resolution (0.02mm) and fast printing speed (150mm/s), this might be compromised if you upgrade to bond tech extruder. Besides the layer cooling fan, I have not see much so called "Must have" Mod for Ultimate, I would enjoy the stock setup for a really long time before attempting any mod. (maybe enclosure if necessary)

if being not open source really bothers you, you should try to replace the board with MKS + mini12864 LCD. will cost less than $30. MonoPrice Select mini board is known to be picky on SD cards, it only takes <4GB cards and <2GB for firmware upgrade. Plus it is not open sourced firmware. But you loss wifi connectivity with new board.

Not sure where you got that idea from, but it is completely false.

I own a Folgertech Kossel (aka delta) and it does NOT have auto-leveling and prints just fine.

Yes, the kit came with a leveling sensor, but I chose not to install it and instead manually level it.
Yes, it is a fiddly process, but done right, you do not need to do it every print.

This is an example of a print from my manually leveled FT Kossel kit printer

My delta printer don't have manual leveling option. I guess it is possible to add an leveling screw to it and hopefully can also reduce the leveling frequency to once a month.

(BTW: The image you show is not leveled, based on the skirt, the bottom right of the picture nozzle are too close to bed and the other side are perfect)

If I have the bottom right first layer height, I will have to use tools to get my print out of the bed. The bottom left is indeed a little high, but the area right on the other side of bottom right are perfect, I can push the print with hand and it pops out of the print bed.

Heartless thanks for nudging this thread back on course.

The printer arrived last evening . I had time to unbox it and do a brief inspection and I attached the spool holder. There was some minor damage to the box.
That was it as this am was a way early morning.

This evening  first impressions

this seems very well build like a preverbial metal privy.   
z axis is a fairly massive ball screw and guide rods. These are mounted on metal blocks. build plate and sub base are heavy 6mm aluminum plate . the case is 4 mm aluminum . There are sheet metal guards around the motor pulleys. Cable management is exelent. Shrink tubing on the end stop conectors.

Conectiton us b was flawless. the only real issue was that there was a - 15mm z axis offset in the firmware.

I did open the settings through rh just to see if I could . rest this to zero and working fine.
Need less to say some frustration attempting to run the bed level routine.   if this was my first printer there would have been some major frustration and head scratching but  fortunate for me not the case.
I did a quick set up in RH and slicer and am running a benchy as a first print.

All in all this thing looks good  it does not apear to be an pen box priter but there are minor signs of it.

So the chitchat funtion is turned on so firmware settings are a little easier.  also the aceleration is set to the proper 3000mm/s2
rather than the 800 reprted in reviews.

not yet I need to snap a few photos and post as far as prints I did print a benchy last evening unfortunately it is at work and I am on vacation next week so benchy  no 2 is printing as we speak. over all it looked great. but there was a weird artifact of strange shape on the bow. on I have not seen before and a bit difficult to describe,

more like a wide open vertical mouth i need ti take a picture

A couple photos

iam thinking i need to print perimeters first

I did a 20 mm test cube single wall thickness. the wall was too thin this was after calibrating the extruder  and boosting the steps per mm. the auto bed level routine on this thing is wakked that appears to be where the -15 mm bed offset came from.
I set the extrusion multiplier to 1.1 an the  extrusion width of the perimeters to 120% Am getting close to 0.40  but the extrusion still looks a little thin.  new printer needs tweaking what can i say.

I am making progress. Bed adhesion is much better.  I printed a near perfect cube. Very minor pillowing on the top and a couple of minor ridges at the corners the thing is basically perfect and solid.

Every machine is different . this one uses a micro Swiss hot end which  is a bit different in design than  the  E3D system on my other machines. Seem like i need to print about 10 degrees hotter.