New printer Monoprice ultimate maker (Page 2 of 4)

Oh, I have one of these! It's a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator 6, and it's easier to find useful info (and spare parts) by searching that name. Couple of quirks you'll run into:

1. No default Cura settings unless you use the software that comes with it. I've found that the Monoprice Select Mini V2 is pretty close and the settings adjusted. The manual has all the settings, though, so it's easy enough to set up from scratch.
2. Uneven cooling. There's mods for that and other quirks.
3. Some filament spools don't spin freely on the back. I had to file the spool holder a tad to get a hatchbox spool to spin, and even then there was just enough drag that I had to babysit the feeder to make sure that the tension didn't get too great to where the filament broke off in the feeder. Solved that problem by mounting a dowl rod on a 2x4 to suspend the spool above the printer, but there are less redneck solutions.
4. The Monoprice version doesn't come with any of the plastic shielding, but if you really want it, those parts can be purchased separately.

She is a pretty machine, though. Easy to clean, easy to repair, easy to mod, and can make some decent prints.

Oh, yeah, the build plate adhesion. I just use the watered down school glue trick because it's cheap and I don't want hair spray getting on other things. If you ever try printing ABS with it, it needs to be printed on a raft (and I'm still experimenting - I admit you've more experience with this than I do).

At least in Cura, there is a setting for first layer height, and default is 0.3 mm, it will not change no matter what layer height you set unless you changed this option. I found leave first layer height always be 0.3 mm bring more benefit than the issues, it maybe one of the reasons that I don't have to do bed leveling on my printer for months.

Slic3r has the same setting .

*shrug* PLA I never needed to use a raft, but with ABS for some reason the first layer always went janky without one. Could be the brand of ABS, could be the humidity (it's been a wet summer), could be I didn't quite have the settings perfected as I've only printed ABS a handful of times.

The screw may become loose during the shipment. I always re-tight every screw when I receive pre-assembled 3d printers, usually 2/3 of the screw will become loose more or less. I have not receive my ultimate yet, but maker select v2 and plus have some screw even almost fall out when arrive. But they print really well after all screw are tighten. I think those screw came with washer usually stay tight better, but not sure if there is cause and consequence relationship here.

I got mine Ultimate the three days ago and I finally understand what you meant. My adjustment screw is not even directly under the endstop switch, although it work just fine. I don't think metal screw is the best choice in this case since resistance is low and can lose calibration over time, I plant to print a plastic one (strong one, PLA+ or ABS) with huge head so that it fully cover the endstop switch and easy to adjust by hand without screw driver, there are plenty of space there. I will run it through a metal nuts to make sure it will not stuck and break in the hole. Alternatively, add plastic washer + spring + washer to the metal screw like this:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1264423

This machine frame is sick! I mean thick. Super heavy! and the rod on z-axis is sick too! And there are extra rod on x axis and y axis that went through to hotend to support its weight, everything looks steady and strong and precision. I wish my CR-10S have this build quality to support its large build volume.

The print quality is fantastic, but I have to raise my hotend temperature to 250C for PLA to get best quality print. Not sure it is cold weather in Boston or full metal hotend or I did something wrong by flash the firmware to Marlin 1.1.9 without do my own PID tune (I use someone else's value for Ultimate).

I'm super happy with the print quality, but have to mod the spool holder and filament guide to achieve that, otherwise filament feeding is not optimal when hotend dragging the filament.

I had mine at a show this weekend . I just put a thumb nut on the bottom of the screw to keep it from moving a longer screw to Accommodate a spring would likely work better.

The ultimate hold the temperature very well, and heating is very quick and smooth. I did PID tune with fan on full speed, still 250C is the best for the green PLA, no stringing at all and great quality at 0.2 mm layer height. May because the full metal hotend, or I used wrong themistor in my configuration.h. I will wait this filament runs out and see if my other PLA filament behave the same.

I don't think the fan is dead, it is the lubricate freeze at cold weather and will give laud noise in the beginning, after about 5 minutes running, the noise should go away once lubricate melted. Alternatively, you can add some 3 in 1 oil which freeze at even lower temperature.

But ball bearing fan is definitely much better than sleeve bearing fan and will run much quieter. I sometimes have to slow down the fans and redo PID tune because the ball bearing fan I picked is too powerful, which will make it even quieter.

What's wrong with the stock extruder? I got great result with stock extruder, really don't see the need to mod or upgrade.

@ MR He i never said any of the fans were dead. I simply upgraded them to prevent failure the only one that was an issue was the one inside the machine. That one i saved the pig tail and tossed it. the other were ok so saved them  probably did not need to as i already have 2 spares.
And yes ball bearing motors do last longer I have a couple cpu fans from old long gone computer they are still dead quite when tested .

As far as the extruder I have no complaints with it.

The bondtech is arguably the best in the world.
Has a great reputation for reliability
it just works.
the combination of duel geared feed  hobbs and a 3-1 gear ratio make it very precise
will handle any filament.
and if one has filament feeding of a shelf it will actualy lift the printer from the bench or table in the case of a filament jamb.
this is the standard extruder used in Joseph Prussa machines.
They make an upgrade kit for my machine so upgrade should be very easy.
I have heard of improvements in print speed of 150  to 200 percent.
This  extruder will put out more filament and retractions are more reliable and precise.

So do i need one , No. Do I want one  , yes.  Am i willing to put out $100 for the upgrade kit. That is still to be determined.

As you know there needs to be a pay off in reliability and or quality improvement. I would expect both. but again how much improvement am i getting for the money do not know unless i try. This unit is the gold standard if you want the standard you need to trade a bit of gold.

I too need to do a PID loop tune again how much improvement will i get ? but it does not cost anything and if i document the setting i can always go back if really needed.

Respectfully
Tin Falcon

No smoke and no crystallize in extruder at 250C, everything works perfectly. I can run PLA at other printer for 250C too, no smoke and no crystallize either but will cause stringing on my other printer (no stringing on ultimate even at 250C). The PLA melt at about 170C which seems normal, themistor shows room temperature without preheat, so no reason to suspect the accuracy of temperature reading.

The MonoPrice Maker Ultimate I got is a openbox item, someone probably print nylon or something that need high temperature to melt before return it. After print at 250C for three to four days, I was able to lower it to 235C without reduce print quality. I'm still printing at 250C hoping it will keep decrease later. I prefer not to take the hotend apart to clean it if print quality is so good.