Re: E3D Titan extruder
Glow in the dark is very abrasive, are you using a hardened nozzle?
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing DaVinci → E3D Titan extruder
Glow in the dark is very abrasive, are you using a hardened nozzle?
Pla in my limited experience is warp free.
I'm printing out some glow in the dark Storm Troopers. Looks nice in PLA but I'm getting these blobs at the end of moves from one side to another and some stringing.
I have retract set to 2mm length with 1mm of Zlift. 60mm/s retraction speed.
Should I slow down retraction speed or increase the length of retraction? Lower the temp a little?
Your retraction settings sound ok to me.
A layer fan will help, if you're not already using one.
I use one most of the time with PLA now, it makes for a much cleaner print with nice, tight layers.
Glow in the dark is very abrasive, are you using a hardened nozzle?
Maybe that explains why the stock nozzle on my DaVinci got torn up to shreds. I probably had 700 hours of glow in the dark printing on it!
Is this the nozzle would you recommend?
http://e3d-online.com/V6-nozzle-hardene … -3mmx0.4mm
Would that help with the blobs I am getting?
I am definitely using a layer fan, same one that Viperz video showed above.
As these blobs are not necessarily related to the Titan extruder, I am going to repeat my question in the general form for a little bit more feedback.
I reckon those hardened steel nozzles will eat glow in the dark filament for breakfast if they can withstand carbon fibre !
Looks good, I am having warping on long PLA prints, what would cause this?
I noticed from your video that you are printing right on the stock glass bed... GUTSY!
What do you use to adhere it?
I use purple aquanet hairspray. I spray it on a foam brush, and then paint it on the bed, to avoid overspray.
Name plaque pencil holders like this:
Would have warped like crazy with ABS, but not a bit with PLA!
I noticed from your video that you are printing right on the stock glass bed... GUTSY!
What do you use to adhere it?
I use purple aquanet hairspray. I spray it on a foam brush, and then paint it on the bed, to avoid overspray.
Name plaque pencil holders like this:
Would have warped like crazy with ABS, but not a bit with PLA!
This is PLA, you spray Aquanet with PLA as well?
Yup. Love it.
I have another piece of glass over the stock glass. Aquanet will stick that stuff on REAL good!
Yup. Love it.
How often do you have to clean the bed? That is why I wanted to try the Zebra plate.
About every 5 prints, I just scrape off the hairspray with a razor blade. Warm wash rag to clean it off about every 20.
About every 5 prints, I just scrape off the hairspray with a razor blade. Warm wash rag to clean it off about every 20.
What about glue? Wouldn't that be the same? I use glue for ABS only now.
I used gluesticks, but they were such a mess. The hairspray holds better and is super easy to cleanup.
I use these glass sheets over my bed:
http://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Printer- … detailpage
I just print PLA directly on the glass as well, heated to arount 60C IIRC. I had some warping problems, but it went away when I got a box of disposable lens cleaning wipes and started cleaning the glass every few prints. The PLA adheres wonderfully to the glass if it's clean, but the oils from your fingers will keep it from sticking.
For ABS I'm just using kapton tape, which works well enough that I have trouble getting parts of the plate if I print them with a skirt.
I just print PLA directly on the glass as well, heated to arount 60C IIRC. I had some warping problems, but it went away when I got a box of disposable lens cleaning wipes and started cleaning the glass every few prints. The PLA adheres wonderfully to the glass if it's clean, but the oils from your fingers will keep it from sticking.
For ABS I'm just using kapton tape, which works well enough that I have trouble getting parts of the plate if I print them with a skirt.
I was cleaning with alcohol but I only cleaned with water this time around.
I used gluesticks, but they were such a mess. The hairspray holds better and is super easy to cleanup.
I use these glass sheets over my bed:
How do you mount it? I assume you are using the flag mod to compensate for the higher bed.
The stock screws that hold the glass on are plenty long enough to mount the extra piece of glass over it.
My "flag" mod is black vinyl tape over the Z end-stop metal flag, and then cut down. I only have 190mm left between my extra glass and e3d mod. I haven't missed that 10mm yet...
I bought a few sheets of Kapton, but I don't like having to reapply it.
The stock screws that hold the glass on are plenty long enough to mount the extra piece of glass over it.
My "flag" mod is black vinyl tape over the Z end-stop metal flag, and then cut down. I only have 190mm left between my extra glass and e3d mod. I haven't missed that 10mm yet...
What is the advantage to the extra glass?
I use a 3mm acrylic sheet so I can remove it from the bed and spray it with hairspray, away from the printer.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231628876542? … EBIDX%3AIT
I use a 3mm acrylic sheet so I can remove it from the bed and spray it with hairspray, away from the printer.
can you take a picture of it in place? How do you hold it down?
Bulldog clips.
Bulldog clips.
I assume you don't use the purge line on the right side of the bed.
No, I'm on repetier firmware and use Simplify3d to slice.
I start with a skirt 10mm from the edges of the print.
No, I'm on repetier firmware and use Simplify3d to slice.
I start with a skirt 10mm from the edges of the print.
Me as well, my Gcode has it. I like the purge line as it is away from the prints, but would have to remove it if I use glass or zebra plate.
That storm trooper is SEXY!
I didn't like the way my print head would hit the Aligator clips. Just using the stock screws holds it on great and you loose no print space.
But removing it is more challenging. As I never use the autolevel, I don't even bother to attach those wires to the bed now.
Actually, you just solved a mystery I noticed last night. The daughterboard is wired such that the two screws that hold it to the original extruder frame are explicitly grounded. I couldn't think of a good reason why they'd want to ground the frame, but I'm pretty sure that's what makes autolevel work.
In theory, that means if you ran a wire from your E3D hotend to anywhere on the frame, you could probably use the E3D nozzle to autolevel. I doubt that's something anyone really wants to do, though. And it would have to be the hotend - the heatsink might work but with the probably-nonconductive thermal grease on the heatbreak threads, it would be dicey.
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