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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing DaVinci → E3D Titan extruder
Very nice viperz !
This thread has gotten so long I've forgotten what everyone's doing. Are you using the pancake stepper viperz ?
Has anyone tried flexible filament yet ?
Yes, pancake stepper, and so far no issues.
I will print some TPU or Ninjaflex tomorrow.
Thanks. Be interested to hear how fast you can print flexibles.
Thanks. Be interested to hear how fast you can print flexibles.
Last time I tried I had to slow it down to around 10mm/sec otherwise the filament would buckle.
That's about as fast as I can print flexible with the stock extruder.
scobo wrote:Thanks. Be interested to hear how fast you can print flexibles.
Last time I tried I had to slow it down to around 10mm/sec otherwise the filament would buckle.
Yikes, I thought that was the whole point of Titan, to speed it up.
viperz28 wrote:scobo wrote:Thanks. Be interested to hear how fast you can print flexibles.
Last time I tried I had to slow it down to around 10mm/sec otherwise the filament would buckle.
Yikes, I thought that was the whole point of Titan, to speed it up.
Yeah, my thoughts too. Slightly dissapointed to hear that.
Telemachus wrote:viperz28 wrote:Last time I tried I had to slow it down to around 10mm/sec otherwise the filament would buckle.
Yikes, I thought that was the whole point of Titan, to speed it up.
Yeah, my thoughts too. Slightly dissapointed to hear that.
At least you didn't drop £45.00 on the thing yet!
Owell, I'm sure there is some advantage to it. Hopefully I will get my first print tomorrow.
TPU
Temps: 230/75
800mm/min
no glue on bed
Cooling fans on
I messed up, I wanted to try a faster speed than 10mm/sec. I will see how high I can go. There is actually two variables: 1) speed 2) tension screw. I may have had the tension screw too tight or loose when I did the print whe it failed.
I really shouldn't be that excited about PLA but I am!
Finally got my first prints with the new setup. ABS was only slightly better than stock, probably because i use cheap inland filament.
PLA was great, smell and all.
I'm really not sure how much the Titan is contributing but I can easily print at 50mm/sec. V6 seems so precise.
What is the best way to program the new center of the bed?
I actually use PLA 90% of the time now, it's just so much easier to print with an E3D.
Telemachus, do you not find the printer pretty noisy at 50mm/s ?
Honestly the fan on the v6 is so blasted loud that the entire printer is just a loud mess now.
But yes the steppers and all seem overstressed at anything much over 35 mm/sec.
This mod moved my hotend over toward the bed by a few mm.
X offset in slic3r does the job, but how is this adjusted in repetier? I can change the x length and xmin... just not sure what to do with those.
IIRC, there are firmware settings to set the coordinates of the "home" position, which should do what you want. The notion is that when homing against the endstops, your extruder will actually be at a negative position because it's off the plate behind the origin. Pretty sure you can edit these coordinates along with the other EEPROM settings in Repetier Host.
I'd check, but my printer is currently in pieces for the v6/Titan upgrade. I'm trying to build my own carriage instead of modding the factory one.
Please share your results. I'm not a huge fan of the stock carriage but I LOVE this E3D!
I've had a few issues with Titan. Other day the bed moved down several cm but nothing was extruding. There were shavings all over and the filament had a nice circle carved into it.
Luckily the gear is exposed and easy to clean.
My stock extruder seems to cover the bed with shavings even when it's extruding properly, so that doesn't bother me too much 
This seems to mostly happen when I'm printing with high infill, so I'm guessing it's just getting blocked at the nozzle, which may be normal. Extrusion multiplier was right on last time I did a calibration print and measured the wall thickness, and I haven't had any clogs, so I'm not sure what to poke at.
I'm basically going all in - new carriage, new bushings, new extruder, new hotend, new pancake stepper. I'm currently in the last few steps of rewiring for the new hotend heater and pancake stepper, but I already have a laundry list to address in the carriage design:
- My daughterboard is currently zip-tied because I didn't want to decide where to put it on the new carriage yet. I'll have to work that out.
- I bought some nice-looking composite bushings with an internal teflon coating, but they're 8x10x10mm. That's just not thick enough to build a carriage that can simultaneously grip the bearings to prevent play and allow enough freedom to allow for imperfections in the carriage print while still sliding freely. I have a temporary solution that makes my carriage slide reasonably, but I think I'm going to re-use the factory bushings after all.
- Some size tweaks to ease assembly.
- Possibly some tweaks to my belt-gripper - I'll have to test it to see.
I'm hoping that at the end of all this, I'll have a direct drive setup that's pretty easy to assemble and lighter than modifying the stock carriage. What's more, after I get this nailed I'm hoping to add the resistor and header so my daughterboard can handle a layer fan, then make another carriage revision that includes one.
Does anyone happen to have the weight for a modded stock carriage with E3D v6 and Titan?
I think ssauntson weighed it at one point, too bad I didn't, as I just put it on a few days ago.
I am using the stock extruder fan connection for the layer fan, as the E3D fan is hard wired (and mine is WHINEY loud!).
Repetier FW just takes one modification to be able to control that fan via G-code.
My E3D fan is currently plugged into the same plug on the daughterboard as the original hotend fan. I'm going to attempt the mod a few people have done to add and activate the second fan header on the daughterboard for the layer fan. I don't really want to hardwire the hotend fan if I can avoid it.
Are you running the E3D fan on 12V instead of 5V? My understanding is that it's a 5V fan, but most DC fans are actually fine running above their stated voltages. It might be that it's loud because it's running faster than designed, but I'm just guessing.
reusing the original fan from the da vinci extruder, plugs into daughter board
The E3D fan is 12V.
I run mine from a seperate supply so I can turn it off to get up to temperature quicker.
Plus, I didn't fancy messing with the mainboard to get 12V from it.
Interesting. I've seen multiple people running the E3D v6 fan on 5V, so I assumed it was 5V, but it looks like you're definitely right and it's meant to be 12V.
I wired it all up last night, and after a dealing with some shoddy crimping work, zip-tying the entire world, and MacGyvering a flag for the endstop opto-sensor because my printed flag was 2mm off, the thing actually printed. I still have that list of issues, but the version-zero carriage seems good enough that I can use it to print version one as long as I keep the speeds low enough. The hotend fan spins fine on 5V and the temperature graphs looked fine, although my attempt at a PID autotune timed out for some reason.
Interestingly, I actually had to raise the bed when leveling. I know I want to lower the extruder a bit in in the next revision so the entire heater block clears the bottom of the carriage, but it does look like I avoided losing build volume in the z-axis. On the other hand, the hotend is right of center on the carriage because of how the Titan is laid out, so I may be losing volume in the x-axis instead. Hard to say now because my workaround for the bushings I'm using now makes the carriage wider than it needs to be.
The biggest issue I'm having is just ABS warping. Without kapton tape, I would reliably see corners peeling off the plate as expected. With it, the corners stay down but I see quite a bit of shrinking in the layers of the first 10mm or so. This is causing me all sorts of fun when trying to get the bearing holes right because sanding them inevitably makes them crooked. I'm thinking I'll play with my temperatures a bit and see if the problem improves, but does anyone have any thoughts?
12V. 5V ain't gunna cut it.
http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Documentation
12V. 5V ain't gunna cut it.
I did the wire from the 12v supply on the motherboard to the e3d fan. The layer fan can be powered from the daughterboard.
Sorry Viperz, that was a reply to Wiley, that I see now was quite late.
I also use the stock fan as a layer fan, just like yours. I have not reflashed the FW yet to be able to control it from Octoprint and GCODE, mainly because I don't want to lose my printing hour counter.
Wiley, could you just print your carriage out of PLA?
Sorry Viperz, that was a reply to Wiley, that I see now was quite late.
I also use the stock fan as a layer fan, just like yours. I have not reflashed the FW yet to be able to control it from Octoprint and GCODE, mainly because I don't want to lose my printing hour counter.
Wiley, could you just print your carriage out of PLA?
I would love to, but everything I've seen says that the heat coming off the hotend and bed is such that the PLA would warp very quickly.
I have v1 mostly designed, but I need to prototype my daughterboard-holder to make sure I've got all the measurements right. Printer is currently back in pieces to get the daughterboard out to measure it and rewire the fan to a 12v supply.
In the long run, I'm hoping to figure out the specs on the E3D fan and find a (possibly larger) 5V fan that can provide the same airflow because having it switched automatically based on the hotend temperature is just really convenient. That's a project for another day, though. I checked the pins to the daughterboard with a voltmeter in the hopes that XYZ put a 12v supply there, but no luck.
As for reflashing the FW, you should check the EEPROM settings that show up in RepetierHost. I'm pretty sure print time is in the list, but I don't know if it's writable. You could back up your EEPROM settings and see if it is - if so, you can restore the counter after reflashing.
Pla in my limited experience is warp free.
I'm printing out some glow in the dark Storm Troopers. Looks nice in PLA but I'm getting these blobs at the end of moves from one side to another and some stringing.
I have retract set to 2mm length with 1mm of Zlift. 60mm/s retraction speed.
Should I slow down retraction speed or increase the length of retraction? Lower the temp a little?
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → XYZ Printing DaVinci → E3D Titan extruder
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