Re: SD Press - Mark II (Modifications Breakdown)
happen to know what the thread is on the threaded rod that the Z carriage attached to is? finally getting around to laying out my idea for a Z carriage bracket and just wanted that info.
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Press → SD Press - Mark II (Modifications Breakdown)
happen to know what the thread is on the threaded rod that the Z carriage attached to is? finally getting around to laying out my idea for a Z carriage bracket and just wanted that info.
8mm diameter, 2mm pitch. I bought the following nuts on ebay and they were an exact match.
awesome, thank you!
I've been down for a while (I've been in and out of the hospital) But I've been feeling alot better in the last 3~4 weeks. So I started to pick back up on the Z Replacement on the Press.
I found a much simpler way to stiffen the bed. The issue is with that plastic 'backboard' that SD uses to hold the acme screw.
So this mod reuses the metal bed but replaces the plastic bits and uses 2040 aluminum extrusion. I have an OpenBuilders anti-backlash nut and two L8UU linear bearings to replace the pressure fitted plastic on metal slides. I am using the MK2B with a custom milled out top and bottom plate to sandwich the PCB and I have a match fit sheet of cork below that. The on thing missing in the picture is the sheet of PEI on top on the aluminum.
And as a side note, Now the bed is fully adjustable (as in with the four screws in the corner- You can now tram up the bed front to rear.)
This setup is hella a lot stiffer than the stock setup and far easier to make then what I was trying to do before.
The next step is to get the Cyclops and the second bowden drive configured (which also has be modified and switched over to all aluminum)
Here is the new bowden setup mocked up.
In the next couple days I'll be merging the my modded Press FW to a RAMBo (which I kinda started but did not finish) with a couple additions (i.e. Door detection, Filament detection and a LCD etc...)
Impressive work!
Welcome back!
Thanks IronMan. Good to be back!
One other thing I forgot to mention- the slides are not exactly 8mm. There is a variance from top to bottom. So I maybe replacing them next. But in all honesty they are good enough. I am aiming for perfection.
Welcome back! I have actually been meaning to get my bed mod finished, I made the carriage out of aluminum like you originally posted about. I just needed to make sure it all lined up with the linear bearings. BUT I'm loving that aluminum extrusion idea because it makes it infinitely adjustable so you can make sure things are all perfectly aligned, linear bearings, ball screw. Mind spilling where that extrusion came from? I'm going to order one of those open builders nuts right now!
Hey jonzerb
I used > http://openbuildspartstore.com/v-slot-linear-rail/ 20x40 but if you used the 20x60 then you don't need the bracket
extension I had to make in order to get the full 8" travel.
And the anti-backlash nut is this >http://openbuildspartstore.com/anti-backlash-nut-block-for-8mm-metric-acme-lead-screw/
Using the stock metal bed this is a bolt on mod. Everything lines up. Which is weird? But awesome.
Thanks. I'll have to send them an email and add that rail to my order here.
Did you have to get the nuts from them as well that are slid into the slots on the rail to use when attaching the linear bearings and the ballnut? Or were those just hardware store items?
For the L8UU's they are M3 screws with M3 T-Nuts. But the Anti-Backlash nut M5 screws and matching T-nuts.
I had these already.But they were purchased from openbuilders.
Perfect. I'll have to add that stuff to my order and get this thing back together and printing. I assume you just milled out that piece of aluminum that you used to attach the antibacklash nut to the aluminum extrusion? Then the two bolts on either side of the stock carriage and the two underneath are just put into the extrusion you're using with a drilled/tapped hole?
Right but it you get the 20mm x 60mm you don't need the plate. I used the 20mm x 40mm cause that's what I had on hand.
Is that aluminum plate setup the one I've seen sold on Amazon for the mk2 pcb setups? Or did you make that all yourself?
The aluminum sandwich for the M2kb? I milled that out. I didn't realized that you could get that pre-made? Well that was a waste of time...
Ya. Assuming you did something along these lines. Although judging by the pics and your description you may have milled out the aluminum so that the entire heat bed is countersunk not just the part for the wires to the thermistor.
Are you just using bulldog clips to hold the PEI onto the aluminum bed?
Here is the new bowden setup mocked up.
In the next couple days I'll be merging the my modded Press FW to a RAMBo (which I kinda started but did not finish) with a couple additions (i.e. Door detection, Filament detection and a LCD etc...)
Where did you get those beautiful Bowden mount setups? The appear to be aluminum?
Are you just using bulldog clips to hold the PEI onto the aluminum bed?
From page 1:
Yeah the metal bed comes out completely. I got a sheet of 468MP (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ heat resistant double side adhesive (Wow, that link was 17.99 when I ordered it a couple weeks back) and stuck the PEI directly to the MK2B
(I've updated my original post with the link also) So they are 'Bonded' together. Then flip the four screws around so they act as tensioners. Kinda of ghetto. I'll design a much better solution (then test it) and release it.
jonzerb wrote:Are you just using bulldog clips to hold the PEI onto the aluminum bed?
From page 1:
MacGyverX wrote:Yeah the metal bed comes out completely. I got a sheet of 468MP (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ heat resistant double side adhesive (Wow, that link was 17.99 when I ordered it a couple weeks back) and stuck the PEI directly to the MK2B
(I've updated my original post with the link also) So they are 'Bonded' together. Then flip the four screws around so they act as tensioners. Kinda of ghetto. I'll design a much better solution (then test it) and release it.
not to be rude but, page 1 was a long time ago and a few renditions ago of his current setup. hence why I asked the question above. thanks though.
Seems like I am not getting notifications anymore when a thread I am in is active. I need to check that.
But yeah I am still using sheet of 468MP to hold the PEI to the Aluminum.
As for the spacer, Yeah.
4mm thick. When I get home I'll export the DXF.
Interesting I made a spacer out of 1/4 material we had at work. Seems to me at least that 4mm thick, .157, would have been too thin. Anywho. My machines all back together and actually up for sale, lol. I have no desire or patience left to mess with it and I just want to cut my losses and get a lulzbot mini.
Yeah your right I dunno where I got the 4mm value from. It's 6.35mm (1/4"). Sorry to hear you are selling your machine. I don't blame you though. Since I was already familiar with SD track record- I already knew what I was getting myself into when I ordered the press. Especially when it was on pre-order sell. It was not that much of a lost.
Ya. I really just let it sit for a while. Then you came out with this carriage idea and I had to put the time and little money into it to try and see if it would work out for me. But in the end, although it functions mechanically well, its not going to be perfect without more time and effort put into it. Neither of which I want to do anymore, not with machines like the lulzbot mini I mentioned above on the market which seem to be awesome for the money.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Press → SD Press - Mark II (Modifications Breakdown)
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